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My greenlee cm-600 clamp-on meter just stopped reading ac and dc voltage correctly. On a 120 volt circuit it only reads 19-20 volts and will not read dc voltage at all.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Posted on Sep 29, 2007

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: voltage output is only 50 volts instead of 120 volts

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Posted on Jan 25, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: voltage output is only 50 volts instead of 120 volts

More than likely your voltage regulator is out. The generator produces electricity, so you know the rotor and stator are OK. The 50 volts comes from the magnets permanent properties. The reason you are not getting 120 is because rotor or electron magnet is not getting any power supplied to it, which it needs to produce the amount of electrons you need to have 120vac. Make sure your engine is running at 60 hz first, and you should ohm out the windings and circuits that connect to your regulator.

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: MISSPLACED AC POWER SUPLY FOR "MY BOOK" 250 GB USB.

THE ANSWER TO MY QUESTION WAS FOUND OUT BY MYSELF BY VISITING A REPAIR / SERVICE DEPARTMENT AND MAKING ENQUIRIES CONCERNING THE DC OUTPUT OF THE AC ADAPTER ASSOCIATED WITH THE WESTERN DIGITAL, MY BOOK 250GB USB. tHE VOLTAGES ARE THESE. : - AC INPUT = 100 - 240 VOLTS 50/60 HZ
DC OUTPUT = 12 VOLTS ( REGULATED ) 2 - 0 A
CENTER PIN OF 12 VOLT DC INPUT PLUG IS " POSITIVE "

THANK YOU FOR THE SPACE TO ASK MY QUESTION.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

  • 832 Answers

SOURCE: fieldpiece sc76

How many computers do you have? What kind of monitors you are using? The old CRT type, LCD type, or Plasma. All CPU, Monitors, and Printers have Watts ratings. From their ratings you estimate their electrical usage, by multiplying their respective ratings to the number of hours in use. You will have the pro-
duct in W-hrs. Divide it by 1000 to get the kwhrs. Multiply it by rate collected by your
local electric utility in cents or dollars per kwhr
to get the estimated cost of your computer
system. To get exact cost, you must hire
an electrical engineer to have energy audit.



Posted on Sep 22, 2009

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1 Answer

Why would a new battery drain when car is turned off. I need to drive each day. If car sits battery will drain. I see others have had this problems. Has anyone founds an answer?


To test the car for electrical drains requires a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) Best is to drive the car awhile so battery is close to full charge. Set parking brake and raise hood place the meter on battery red lead to + and black to - set dial to read DC voltage 20 volt scale This should read about 13.0 volts now start car and check again reading should be 13.2 volts or higher but not greater than 15.0 volt leave leads on battery and turn dial on voltmeter to the 1 volt AC scale this reading should be less than 120MV or .120 volts if good the charging system is in working order any thing out range you have a bad alternator. Now with car running make sure your accessories are off shut off car and exit note to watch for sentinel dome lights let then fade out. Now place DVOM on a ampere scale 10 amp preferred here is the tricky part place one lead in the center of the battery post and the other on the cable end slowly remove with out breaking connection this will read the total amperage draw against battery This draw after 10 minutes should be less than .300MA Milli-amps if it is not use a small hose clamp to keep lead on post and clip other to cable end touch battery until sentinel goes out and retest now start removing main fuses in fuse panel until draw is gone. Now you have identified the circuit that is causing your problem.

Aug 03, 2014 | 2004 Nissan Quest

1 Answer

Stator replacement


Hi Anonymous, you will need a multimeter, first set it ohms on its lowest setting and touch the two meter leads together to calibrate the setting, then unplug the wiring harnes that goes to the stator. Touch one lead of the meter to one of the stator pins and the other lead to ground on the bike, meter should read infinity. Repeat the process with the other stator pin, reading should be infinity. Attach both leads to the stator pins and you should get a reading of 0.1 to 0.3 ohms. Next set the multimeter to the 100 volts AC range and hook the leads up to the stator connector pins. Fire up the bike and read the meter for every 1,000 RPM it should read 16 to 20 volts AC. If every thing checks out stator is fine. Set the meter to the 20 or more DC volts range and hook it up to the battery, voltage at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts DC if not your voltage regulator is bad. And finally when ever you do any type of electrical diagnostics make sure you have a fully charged battery and all wiring and connections in the circuit you are testing are clean and tight. Good luck

Apr 23, 2014 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

1990 HARLEY 1340 FUSE BOX LOCATION


Hi Anonymous, main circuit breakers are underneath the instrument panel or seat. But more than likely it's your alternator or voltage regulator. Ther are a few things you can do to isolate the problem. Start with a charged battery 12.5 volts or better and cables are clean and tight as with all your electrical connections. Disconnect your alternator plug and with a muliti meter set it to the lowest ohms scale, one lead to ground the other to any alternator wire the meter should read zero, do the same with the other wire. Next touch both wires with meter leads you should get 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. Also put one lead to ground and one lead to voltage regulator mounting bolt or stud the meter should read zero. Then switch your meter to the AC volts scale fire up the bike and the meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1,000 RPM the tach reads, if you have no tach it should read 16 to 20 at an idle. If all the numbers check out ok then you have a good stator and probablly rotor. Remove your voltage regulator and check for swelling, cracks or burnt smell/look. If your going to throw parts at it start with the voltage regulator. A normal charging system will read 14.3 to 14.7 volts DC at the battery with the engine at 3,000 RPM. Good luck

Apr 14, 2014 | 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

1 Answer

Line voltage indicator false indication of voltage variations


Voltmeters usually read RMS on ac volts therefore 120 volts is OK while the indicator is reading peak volts. If unit is operational there is no problem.

Mar 31, 2014 | Tripp Lite G1000U Intelligent LCD 1000VA...

1 Answer

How to use greenlee testervolt dvc-6


http://www.westwaysupply.com/fw487627.html

Here is the Instruction Manual in PDF file form,

http://www.mygreenlee.com/GreenleeDotCom/im/im1397.pdf

Shows which is the Fixed probe and which is the movable probe, which indicator LED's are for AC or DC, and Positive and Negative, and so on.

Voltage measurement (DC from 12 volt to 600. AC from 120 volts)
Continuity check (OHM's)
Resistance measurement (OHM's)
Identifying energized conductor
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter test. (GFCI)

12 pages in English

Regards,
joecoolvette

Sep 17, 2012 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

How to use


Voltage testers and volt meters are two different things. A meter will provide a an indication of the exact voltage and type AC or DC. A tester on the other hand simply provides an indication of presence of power with little to no indication of how much or type.

AC power is what is provided by most power companies in the world. DC is a type of power provided by batteries and DC power supplies. If your tester or meter has provisions to check for AC and DC, you should check for BOTH. If AC power is present and you are have set your meter to test for DC power, your meter will indicate 0 volts. You can see this can be a dangerous condition. Most simple testers will not care if AC or DC power is being tested and the types that use neon lamps will usually glow differently for AC and DC power.

When setting up for testing voltage, you must test across the power source (or in "parallel") or load (such as a light bulb), as opposed to "in series" with the power source. Across would be from the + to - post of a battery, into the slots of an outlet, etc. "In series" is when the tester would be completing a circuit - such as testing across an open switch.

First, check the meter's operation by testing a known good power source by following the next steps. Set the meter for the type power to be tested. Choose AC if unsure. Next, set the meter for the highest voltage range supported. Make sure this range is higher than the expected voltage, otherwise damage to the meter may result. Connect the probes to the power source. Read the meter. If the meter moved only slightly, adjust the range of the meter to the next lower value. You can keep adjusting downward as needed to get the most precise reading possible - but do not set the range to a value less than the voltage present. A 0-300 volt scale is the lowest to measure a 240 volt outlet - switching to a 0 - 150 volt scale will damage the meter. The 0 - 150 volt scale would be fine for measuring 120 volt outlets.

If the meter did not move, change the type from AC to DC. and repeat. If it still does not work, the meter is not working correctly (if testing a know good source) or there is no power present (if the meter worked on a known good power source).

Good luck!

May 12, 2012 | Measuring Tools & Sensors

1 Answer

I have a ge2524 digital mulitmeter. When i check a 9volt batter it reads 16.3 when I check a 12 volt battery i get 21.7 when I check a 120v circuit I get 183. this meter is not that old and the...


change the meters battery,when they get low they will read higher than normal voltage as in line plug should read about 120 volts A.C.,when the battery gets weak it may read 140 volts A.C.

Aug 22, 2011 | GE Measuring Tools & Sensors

1 Answer

I just purchased yesterday and found recall notice in upper tour pack. The battery was low charged over night and am going to check voltage and amps at battery while running today. What are the telltail...


With the battery fully charged, use a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the output of the charging system. Connect it across the battery, red meter lead to positive, black meter lead to negative. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT range. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle of about 1500-2000 RPM. The meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts.

If the meter does not read correctly, unplug the regulator where it enters the front of the engine case. You'll be measuring the AC voltage at the engine case side of the plug. Put your meter's function switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT range. Put one meter lead into one metal contact in the plug and the other lead into the other metal contact in the plug. Makes no difference which lead goes to which metal contact. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 30 volts or better.

If you do not read 30 volts at the engine, your stator is bad. If you have 30 volts or more at the engine but low voltage at the battery, your regulator is probably bad. This is a simple test and it's accuracy is about 90% or so.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 31, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

2 Answers

I got a output voltage of 100.1 on a trace dr3624


The rms voltage is what counts, because it tells how much power the output will deliver to a resistive load. Inexpensive multimeters on their AC ranges are usually average-responding rms-calibrated meters. This means they measure the average of the absolute value of the AC component of the signal, and display that average multiplied by about 1.11 (actually, pi over sqrt(8)), the ratio of rms to average value for a pure sine wave. That way, the meter will give the right rms reading for a sine wave.

If the signal is a square wave, where the average and rms values are equal, the average-responding meter will read 11% too high.

Many inverters put out a modified sine wave (MSW), which sits at zero for a while, goes to a constant positive level for a while, goes back to zero for a while, and goes to a constant negative level for a while to complete the cycle. The positive and negative parts of the signal have the same magnitude and duration.

The rms and average values of an MSW depend on its duty cycle D, the fraction of a cycle for which the signal is not at zero. In a well-designed inverter, the duty cycle will be adjusted when the DC input voltage goes up and down to maintain the nominal rms output voltage. If we use peak voltage Vp to mean the magnitude of the positive and negative voltages the signal goes to, then Vavg for an MSW is equal to Vp times D, and Vrms is equal to Vp times the square root of D.

The duty cycle for which an MSW will have the same rms to average ratio as a sine wave is 8 over pi squared, or 81%. For any duty cycle less than this, an average-responding meter will read a lower voltage than the inverter rms output, and for a duty cycle higher than this, the meter will read too high.

If your MSW inverter is putting out 120 volts rms and its duty cycle varies from 50% to 75%, the meter reading will vary from 94 volts to 115 volts. I avoid the problem by using a Radio Shack 22-174B true rms digital multimeter.

Aug 27, 2009 | Xantrex Technology DR2412 Inverter /...

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