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Re: HP TO HIGH IN REVERSE CYCLE
If the refrigerant charge was improperly adjusted at any time you may have the indications of an overcharge in your system causing the high pressure to trip out. The name plate on these indicates the proper charge and it is critical to the ounce.
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A 100# suction line if R22 refrigerant is way too high, possible bad reversing valve or compressor valves, with low head pressure and high suction pressures. is the amp draw lower than the lister RLA or run load amps?
There are a few things that can cause the compressor/condenser fan no to start.
1 - Faulty thermostat control unit. Take wall thermostat switch cover off and check for continuity on terminals R and G and R and Y while termostat is in the AUTO/COOL setting.
2 - System Low/High pressure. Check refrigerant pressure, if too lowor too High, Low Presssure or High Pressure Switch will not let compressor kick in.
3 - Start up selenoid and/or transformer defective.
4 - Defective capacitor. Check capacitance, it should be +-5% of the capacitors rating. Rating is stated on capacitor's label.
Call an HVAC service company. You can't even buy R-22 without an EPA card. And you'll need to proper set of gauges to read the high and low side pressures and, to do it right, be able to compute the dry/bulb/wet bulb temp to determine the proper charge with a charging chart.
Better off taking good money and put into something with a warranty. its probably a 4 hour job to recover solder in new valve change drier pull vacuum recharge If your system is freezing up it may not be the valve could be a check valve. low freon dirty unit all would cause the unit to freeze up is the company competent in working on heat pumps don't get some body that can work on you want in FIXED . from what you said in your 2nd post i am not convinced its the valve. Tom p.s i am in the mid west prices are not too far out of line.
The high side/low side pressure equalization you describe is normal for a compressor sitting idle.
If you have an ohm meter you can check the compressor windings for opens and shorts. If your compressor is 3 phase as you state (this would be very unusual for a residential unit) you should have continuity across all 3 phases and no continuity to ground. Take the compressor out of the circuit before you check.
If the compressor does have crankcase heat, it should have been left on for at least 24 hours before starting the unit. Another cause for failure could be overcharging which could have resulted in refrigerant slugging back to the compressor.
Does the unit have any low or high pressure control safeties? If so, check them too - some have resets. You said the condenser fan ran so it's not likely the breaker blew, but check anyway and also check to make sure you have available power on all 3 phases.
check the true psi with the line psi to see if same if psi is good in cooling 225 hi and 70 low on 80'day then compressor is fine and i would start checking for temp difference on the reversing valve sometimes this will cause high suction or high discharge psi shift it manually with by energising it be cooling or heating then pull wire and see how it shifts if shifts good then txv on out door unit could be bad what is the psi in heating on the discharge line going to the indoor unit? most prv's are set at about 350 psi r22 as for suction line size its only hot gas in hp mode os no problem their shows in cooling mode as low suction psi ..hope this helps some also make sure indoor coil is clean!....thanks & rate me