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Re: HP TO HIGH IN REVERSE CYCLE
If the refrigerant charge was improperly adjusted at any time you may have the indications of an overcharge in your system causing the high pressure to trip out. The name plate on these indicates the proper charge and it is critical to the ounce.
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HIGH PRESSURE CUTOFF SWITCH LOCATED ON AC COMPRESSOR DISCHARGE LINE LEADING TO THE CONDENSOR.THE HIGH PRESSURE CUTOFF SWITCH WILL CUT OFF THE AC COMPRESSOR IF SYSTEM PRESSURE RISES TO HIGH CAUSED BY RESTRICTION IN THE REFRIGERANT CIRCUIT OR OVERHEATED CONDENSOR.MAKE SURE COOLING FAN IS RUNNING WHEN THE AC SWITCH IS ON.THE COOLING FAN KEEP CONDENSOR COOL, IF COOLING FAN DONT RUN.YOUR AC WILL STOP BLOWING COLD AIR.HAVE THE REFRIGERANT SYSTEM CHECK OUT.MAKE SURE YOUR LOW SIDE PRESSURE IS 10 - 37 PSI. THE HIGH SIDE PRESSURE SHOULD BE 112 - 210 PSI. CHECK THE AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH FUSE AND RELAY.
There are a few things that can cause the compressor/condenser fan no to start.
1 - Faulty thermostat control unit. Take wall thermostat switch cover off and check for continuity on terminals R and G and R and Y while termostat is in the AUTO/COOL setting.
2 - System Low/High pressure. Check refrigerant pressure, if too lowor too High, Low Presssure or High Pressure Switch will not let compressor kick in.
3 - Start up selenoid and/or transformer defective.
4 - Defective capacitor. Check capacitance, it should be +-5% of the capacitors rating. Rating is stated on capacitor's label.
There should be a Schrader valve on the fuel rail (looks like a valve stem on a tire, it is metal).
You need to connect a fuel pressure gauge to that valve and do the following test:
Relieve fuel pressure.
Remove the 12 mm sealing nut from the fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure adapter nut, 12 mm (90201 - P0A - 003) and the special tool.
Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with the engine idling and the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator and pinched. If the engine will not start, turn the ignition switch on, wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back on again and read the fuel pressure. Pressure should be: 260 - 310 kPa (2.7 - 3.2 kgf/sq.cm, 38 - 48 psi)
Reconnect vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. Pressure should be: 210 - 250 kPa (2.1 - 2.8 kgf/sq.cm, 30 - 37 psi) If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is OK, check the following:
If the fuel pressure is higher than specified, inspect for:
Pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line.
Faulty fuel pressure regulator.
If the fuel pressure is lower than specified, inspect for:
Better off taking good money and put into something with a warranty. its probably a 4 hour job to recover solder in new valve change drier pull vacuum recharge If your system is freezing up it may not be the valve could be a check valve. low freon dirty unit all would cause the unit to freeze up is the company competent in working on heat pumps don't get some body that can work on you want in FIXED . from what you said in your 2nd post i am not convinced its the valve. Tom p.s i am in the mid west prices are not too far out of line.
The high side/low side pressure equalization you describe is normal for a compressor sitting idle.
If you have an ohm meter you can check the compressor windings for opens and shorts. If your compressor is 3 phase as you state (this would be very unusual for a residential unit) you should have continuity across all 3 phases and no continuity to ground. Take the compressor out of the circuit before you check.
If the compressor does have crankcase heat, it should have been left on for at least 24 hours before starting the unit. Another cause for failure could be overcharging which could have resulted in refrigerant slugging back to the compressor.
Does the unit have any low or high pressure control safeties? If so, check them too - some have resets. You said the condenser fan ran so it's not likely the breaker blew, but check anyway and also check to make sure you have available power on all 3 phases.
Some of this TRUE don't have service valves, but you can put a tapping valve (A1) in the appendix (small piece of pipe comming out of the compresor and seal on the other end).To check the pressure you need to know what type of refrigerant is in the system .If is 134a the low side should be about 24psi and the high around 160 it could vary depends how hot is inside the place and the fridge but not much more than 200.If you working with R22 pressures be around 60 low and 250 high side.
check the true psi with the line psi to see if same if psi is good in cooling 225 hi and 70 low on 80'day then compressor is fine and i would start checking for temp difference on the reversing valve sometimes this will cause high suction or high discharge psi shift it manually with by energising it be cooling or heating then pull wire and see how it shifts if shifts good then txv on out door unit could be bad what is the psi in heating on the discharge line going to the indoor unit? most prv's are set at about 350 psi r22 as for suction line size its only hot gas in hp mode os no problem their shows in cooling mode as low suction psi ..hope this helps some also make sure indoor coil is clean!....thanks & rate me