Question about Pass & Seymour Pass and Seymour Decorator Fan Speed Control with Dimmer, White #LSDC16PWV

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Trying to install lsdc163pwv for ceiling light operated by 2 different switches. Install box is through switch with black common hot wire, red and black travelers and 2 white neutrals and grounds . New directions make no sense as to what 6 wires go to what . please help. thanks john

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Found a .pdf file that shows LSDC163pwv ... it does not show wiring for LSDC. It shows wiring for other 3-way dimmers & separate wiring for 3-way fan control. This is a clue.

The Pass and Seymour download page does not load, so I can't see specific manual.

Let me provide what I know:
-Instructions might be confusing because LSDC works for both single-pole and 3-way circuits ... which probably adds a lot of extra wording in manual
-LSDC Device has single-pole/3-way dimmer (this requires 3 wires)
-Device has single-pole/3-way fan control with 3 speeds (which requires 3 wires)
-That's 6 total wires
-If I understand correctly, you just want to control a ceiling light? -And you do not have a fan? And your ceiling light is set up with 3-way switches.
-IF you are also wanting to control a fan in addition to the light, the box will need separate wires that go specifically to the fan >> your description shows that you do not have separate wires for the fan. Is this correct?
-Without separate wires to the fan, you can still control the light ... but if wires to light also turn the fan on-and-off, then the LSDC is not the right control since a dimmer for lights will not work on both fan and light.
To wire the light:
-You have identified black common wire for light (it is connected to dark-colored screw on 3-way switch)
-You have identified travelers that connect the 3-way switches
-The neutral wires seem to be twisted together at back of box.
-I think the dimmer is located on the top, and fan control is bottom?? Not 100% sure >>>
-Question: are there 3 wires that are associated with dimmer?
-If you can see 3 wires for dimmer, one of those wires should be black ... just hook that to common, and hook other 2 wires to travelers ... and see if it works. If not, keep connecting them until correct combination is found.

Tip- I read a lot of electrical part manuals, and when confused, I write out the instructions so it breaks down the information.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

  • Anonymous Apr 26, 2011

    Found more links for LSDC163PWV preset single-pole-or-3-way de-hummer fan control with single-pole-or-3-way dimmer (1)http://www.legrand.us/PassAndSeymour/Lig... (2)http://www.legrand.us/Support/PassAndSey... (3) smaller sell-sheet than one listed in original answerhttp://tools.passandseymour.com/pdf/N15-...

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Box in ceiling has black wire and white wire & the ceiling fan has white wire, black wire and red wire.


BEFORE YOU PERFORM ANY CONNECTIONS BE SURE THAT THE CORRECT CIRCUIT BREAKER FOR THE BOX HAS BEEN TURNED OFF! You must check for voltage between the white and black wires at the ceiling box with each of your two wall switches toggled up or down ONE AT A TIME!
The green wire in the ceiling box (or bare copper wire) is your ground wire and should be connected to the green wire of the fan, and also should be mechanically connected to the electrical box by a screw or clip. If your system was wired correctly you should find that it already is connected to the box.
The white wire in the ceiling box is your neutral wire, so any and all white wires from the fan should be connected to it. You may have one for the fan motor and one for the light kit if there are two separate whites from the fan. Again, they may already be connected together in the fan/light assembly.
The black wire in the ceiling box is switched on and off from either of the two switches in the room, which I assume are located near two different doors to the room. These are called "three-way switches". They are not marked "on" and "off" on the toggle like any single-light switches in your home. That is why you must check for power at the ceiling box with the switches in each position one at a time to make sure that the circuit is de-energized.
Now for the connections:
You will need to connect both the red and black wires from the fan to the black wire from the electrical box. The black wire in your ceiling box is your "hot" wire and will provide power to both the fan motor (black wire) and to the light through the red wire--(sometimes this wire is blue, for others who are following this post).
With this arrangement, your fan and light will only operate with one or the other of your three-way switches completing the circuit from your breaker box. You will have to use the pull chains on the fan to control the fan and lights. So you will probably want to leave the light "pulled on" so that you can control the room lighting from either of your three-way switches, and operate your fan speeds from the pull chain. However, if you want your fan only on at night you will have to "pull off" the fan's light switch.
You may find all this switch flipping and chain pulling an inconvenience. If so, hire an electrician to install wiring so that the ceiling box will be "hot" all the time to the fan's black wire and the fan will therefore be operated by the pull chain only, and the light kit will be controlled by either of the three way switches, via the fan's red (or blue) wire.
One other caveat before you begin: you must make sure that the ceiling box is rated for and mounted sturdily so that it will support the weight of the fan and light kit. Many ceiling boxes are designed and mounted to support only a light-weight fixture. You don't want your fan to come crashing down from the ceiling!

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Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

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House wireing red,white,black. how do i hook up a cealingfan with light kit pull chain on.


For starters, look at the wall switch. Are there two switches? If so, connect the black wire from the ceiling box to the black wire from the fan. Connect the red wire from the ceiling box to the blue wire from the fan. Connect white to white. At the fan, usually the black wire goes to the fan and the blue wire goes the the light.

If there is only one wall switch, you may or may not want to install a double switch so the fan and light can be controlled separately. If there is only one wall switch, most people just connect the wire connected to that switch (usually the black) to both the black and blue from the fan, not using the red at all. In that scenario both the light and the fan are switch at the fan as needed after the wall switch is operated.

Installing the extra red wire is not usual practice, someone actually was planning for future use and convenience.

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Question needs more details. Let me answer as if you have one light and one switch, and one cable coming into switch box from ceiling.

Usually a switch-dimmer combo operates 2 different Loads (lights).
One light is controlled by switch, other by dimmer.

If power source is in ceiling, then one cable enters switch box.
Cable has black, white and ground wires
Old switch had 2 brass screws where black and white wires connect
Black wire brings Hot down from ceiling, and white wire connects back to Load (fan).
Neutral wires are in ceiling box, and not inside switch box, and are discussed.

With new dimmer: Black Hot wire from ceiling connects to dimmer black wire.
White Load wire connects to one of the red wires.
The other red wire goes to another Load, which is unknown at this point.

Add a comment for more free help. Say what cables and wires enter box, and what Loads you are controlling. Also add exact model number so expert can reference manual. Levition instruction sheets and manuals usually have toll free number.

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I wish we had more information to go on here.

1) You have 2 cables to to the Heat-Vent-Light
One cable is 12-3 and 1 cable is 12-3

2) That's where it's gets fuzzy.
What color wires are on HentVentLight?
Is power at the ceiling box or at the wall box?
What other wires are inside the wall box?
What kind of switch are you installing?

3) With that number of wires, it sounds like power is at ceiling box.
Power would arrive at ceiling box on one cable that has a Hot-black and Neutral-white wire.

4) Start at wall box:
Let's suppose you are installing a wall device that has 3 individual switches, with one switch for each HentVentLight.
The Hot wire from ceiling box would drop down into wall box on a black wire, and this wire connects to brass screw on switch.
Wire going to heater connects to one of the silver screws.
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Wire to light to another silver screw.

5) Work at ceiling box:
Let's suppose your HentVentLight has 4 wires: Black for light, Red for fan, Blue for heater, and White Neutral.
The white neutral connects to Neutral wire as described in #3.
Black, Red and Blue connect to each of the wires that come up from switch.

Add a comment for more free help, and fill in the missing information.

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As a general rule for timers and dimmers:

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The wall red wire that is capped could be a couple different things. a) It could go to a second switch that was used to control the chandelier. b) it could be another wire that goes to same ceiling box as chandelier to be used to control a fan, except you don't have a fan. In the second case, if you install a fan with a light, you could control fan and light separately.

The green is a ground wire that connects to bare copper wire in box. The bare copper connect back to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
White wires that are twisted together inside your light switch box also connect back to to main breaker box on the Neutral busbar.
The ground wire and neutral are a redundant safety system to protect you from electrical devices and appliances that have 'shorted'
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For example, each circuit breaker controls one area of household lighting. The black white and copper wires leave breaker box in a single romex cable. The romex travels to a junction box in the area where the lights are located. The junction box is usually a switch box or a ceiling box. From the junction box, the romex travels to each other switch, light and receptacle box in the area. So each box has 1 hot and 1 neutral and 1 ground that is connected in a line that leads back to breaker box.

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http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html

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This is a 3-way switch, made to control a light fixture that is also controlled by another switch in a different location. A typical example is a ceiling light fixture installed in an upstairs hallway, which could be controlled by switches at both top and bottom of the staircase.

The green wire in your switch is the ground connection, and joins to the green insulated or bare copper ground wire in the switch box. The red wire is the common connection. It connects either to the incoming AC hot wire from the electric panel, or to the hot terminal of the light fixture, depending on the switch location. The two black wires are traveller connections. They connect to the traveller terminals of the other 3-way switch.

If you purchased this switch as a replacement for a regular single-pole toggle switch or dimmer switch - one that controls a light from a single location only - then this isn't what you need and you can't use it. You'll know if you have a single-pole switch because it will have only three wires or screw connections. Return it and get a single-pole.

To install this as a replacement for a 3-way toggle switch or dimmer, connect the red wire to the wire going to the common terminal of the original switch. This will be a black- or brass-colored screw on a toggle switch, or the different-colored (not green, that's ground) wire on a dimmer. The black wires connect to the wires that go to the traveller screws (copper-colored) on a toggle switch, or the same-colored wires on a dimmer. It doesn't matter which traveller wire connects to which.

Note that if you're using a 3-way dimmer, only one of the switches can be a dimmer. The other switch has to be a plain old 3-way toggle.

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