Question about KitchenAid KSRS25IL Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

No Ice Model KSRG25FXSS16. It stopped making ice after i changed the filter. I have switched the inlet valve with the water and it works. I have forced a cycle by jumping with a wire and it worked once and will not work after jumping again. Doesn't call for water either. Module??? Thank you, rC84770@hotmail.com

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  • RC84770 Jul 26, 2008

    I replaced the module and it's working perfectly. Thanks

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Probably either the wire crossed or burned out.

Posted on Jul 26, 2008

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Ice maker not making ice, but water dispenser working, just changed filter


If you changed the filter than water may not have made it to the icemaker yet. If you have givin it 24hrs than check these.

There are only 3 things that will prevent an icemaker from not making ice.

1) Temperature in freezer. Most icemakers require that the temp in the freezer is at a minium of 6 degrees. If the thermostat in the icemaker is not reading this temp or below it will not let the icemaker call for water to make ice.

2) Icemaker. Is the arm on the icemaker in the correct position. Most models the arm should be down to operate and up to be off. Faulty icemaker. The internal components of the icemaker may have went out.

3) Water inlet valve. If the silinoid for the icemaker on the inlet valve is stuck it will not allow water to the icemaker. Over time inlet valves wear out.

Troubleshooting- Check the temp in freezer. If not 6 degrees or below you have another problem with your freezer. If at 6 degrees or below and you have ice and water through door unplug fridge, switch the two hoses from the inlet valve (NOT Possible on all inlets so check to make sure you can remove the hoses by pushing in on the cylinder that hose feeds into and pulling hose out) Switch the hoses than press the water through door feature. If you get water inlet valve is good. If you dont have ice and water though door than have your inlet valve tested. If inlet is good and temp is good replace icemaker. If you have any questions or need further assistance please respond. Thank you

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1 Answer

Not making ice after changing filter.


Hi and welcome to FixYa I am Kelly.

A new filter can take several cycles of the ice maker to fill the filter up with water before. The average filter is around 30 oz and the average ice maker fill cycle is 3.2 oz. The new filter did not have any water in it. The water in the door has a resercoir so the air in the filter will still make the water work until you get air. Drain abour 3 tall glasses from the water in door. The ice maker should then work properly. The filter filters water for water in door (inside) and the ice maker so if you have water inside the door you should have ice UNLESS one of the inlet water valve solenoids has failed. Also make sure the Freezer door / light switch functions properly. The door switch is supposed to stop water and ice functions with the door open.

I would like to know if it starts making ice.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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1 Answer

HSS25GFPD icemaker stopped working. Blinking green light.


HI. First, you will need to rule out any standard issues that will cause this. Check the internal, and external feed lines for any obstructions. Make sure that the internal lines are not frozen, or kinked. If the lines check out ok, move on to the water filter(if equipped).

In most units, there will be a filter, present. These devices are set to operate on a particular time frame. If their filtering limit is met, the filter will stop filtering water, thus, not allowing the fluid to flow, at all. Make sure that the filter is up to date. If you have verified that the filter is ok, move on to the water inlet valve assembly.


The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to Remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. the multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Now. If the inlet valve is operational, and it has passed the above inspection, this will lead to a faulty inlet switch. This will be located, and mounted on the ice maker module board. First you must make sure of the design. Most ice maker control sectors are the module type and some are the traditional type. the traditional type is refereed to as a component ice maker. These are easier to work on. They have the gear components exposed, just behind the face plate. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. These are not serviceable. You will need to replace the entire module, if this is your type. The inlet switch is not accessible. The ejector motor, and mold heater are the only components that can be tested on a module style ice maker.

To determine which model you have, Remove the outer face plate. If there is a knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. If it is a component style ice maker, follow the procedure below to test the inlet switch. if it is a module type, simply replace the entire ice maker. it is not repairable, due to the fact that the inlet switch is not accessible.

component ice maker inlet inspection procedure:(unplug the unit before attempting this inspection)

First you will need to Remove the entire ice maker form the unit.The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, Remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so already. Just along the the edge, nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate. The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker structure.

the inlet switch is located on the mounting plate, near the cam. the inlet switch is mounted on a thin plastic insulator and can be differentiated from the holding switch which sits on a thick spacer. the inlet switch also uses only two wires, while the holding switch uses three. Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors.Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals NOTE_ If the connectors are corroded, try to clean them. if the connectors cant be cleaned, simply, replace them.

Now, it is time for the testing section of the procedure.Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to the side terminal and the second probe to each of the other terminals. The reading should be zero on one terminal and infinite on the other. Now, repeat the test while depressing the switch, the readings should now be the reversed. If the switch fails the test, it should be replaced.


* NOTE_ If you have the component type, i would verify motor functions, as well. Test the motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Touch one probe to the wire from the wire cap. Touch the other probe to each of the two other wires in turn. The reading should be between infinity and zero for each wire.If the motor test results in a zero or infinity reading on either wire, the motor should be replaced.

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1 Answer

Ice maker stopped working. Not delivering water to ice maker. Cleared all ice in the maker and the signal to show that the ice container is clear appears to be working. This has worked fine for several...


HI. First, you will need to rule out any standard issues that will cause this. Check the internal, and external feed lines for any obstructions. Make sure that the internal lines are not frozen, or kinked. If the lines check out ok, move on to the water filter(if equipped).

In most units, there will be a filter, present. These devices are set to operate on a particular time frame. If their filtering limit is met, the filter will stop filtering water, thus, not allowing the fluid to flow, at all. Make sure that the filter is up to date. If you have verified that the filter is ok, move on to the water inlet valve assembly.


The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Now. If the inlet valve is operational, and it has passed the above inspection, this will lead to a faulty inlet switch. This will be located, and mounted on the ice maker module board. First you must make sure of the design. Most ice maker control sectors are the module type and some are the traditional type. The traditional type is refereed to as a component ice maker. These are easier to work on. They have the gear components exposed, just behind the face plate. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. These are not serviceable. You will need to replace the entire module, if this is your type. The inlet switch is not accessible. The ejector motor, and mold heater are the only components that can be tested on a module style ice maker.

To determine which model you have, remove the outer face plate. If there is a knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. If it is a component style ice maker, follow the procedure below to test the inlet switch. if it is a module type, simply replace the entire ice maker. it is not repairable, due to the fact that the inlet switch is not accessible.

Component ice maker inlet inspection procedure:(unplug the unit before attempting this inspection)

First you will need to remove the entire ice maker form the unit.The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so already. Just along the the edge, nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate. The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker structure.

The inlet switch is located on the mounting plate, near the cam. The inlet switch is mounted on a thin plastic insulator and can be differentiated from the holding switch which sits on a thick spacer. The inlet switch also uses only two wires, while the holding switch uses three. Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors.Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals NOTE_ If the connectors are corroded, try to clean them. if the connectors cant be cleaned, simply, replace them.

Now, it is time for the testing section of the procedure.Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to the side terminal and the second probe to each of the other terminals. The reading should be zero on one terminal and infinite on the other. Now, repeat the test while depressing the switch, the readings should now be the reversed. If the switch fails the test, it should be replaced.

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1 Answer

The ice maker stopped making ice. Any solutions?


A lot of filters ( not all ) do not even access the ice maker . Only the water dispensor . If your water dispensor is working fine , then you need to replace the dual water inlet valve behind the refrig . This is the piece the wall water line connects to . It is called a dual valve because there are 2 coils on the valve . 1 for the ice maker and 1 for the water dispensor .

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1 Answer

No water from Water dispensor


Have you checked your water valve? I dont have your model number but you could have what you call a double water valve and one side of it may be out, alternately you may need to change your water filter if you havent done that yet. I have seen were the water stops dispensing first and then stops making ice. have you changed the filter lately? If not change it then if that doesnt work check water inlet valve...

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I have an old Kenmore 26 side by side that dispenses water and ice. At one point it stopped producing ice and dispensing water. I changed the inline filter and it worked perfectly. Happened again shortly...


It sounds like you need to replace your water inlet valve , it is a dual valve for ice and water in the door and they go out often , the solenoid is not opening anymore , it is located where you hook up the water line.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Phil

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