I checked power to the interior fan with the compressor on and it had voltage across the leads. Have reset unit several times with no result. Suspect burnt out fan transformer unless there is a reset button somewhere or another control that I cannot see.
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Re: compressor runs, fans don't
There is no reset button anywhere for the fans. Like you said, it could be a burnt out transformer or it could be that the defrost timer went bad. Let me know what you decide to do and if you are able to fix it. If not, let me know and I would be glad to help you with any further questions or concerns that you may have.
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If the fan on the backside is not spinning it could be a bad fan-motor. When the fan runs the compressor should run as well. If the compressor is not running the fan should not be running either, so you should unplug it for about an hour, then plug it back in and see if the compressor unit starts up. If it doesn't, it is probably something wrong in the control circuit for the compressor. It could be the thermostat (check that it is set correctly). If the compressor starts up but the fan does not run, it is most likely a bad fan motor or bad wire leading to the fan motor.
There are several things that can cause cooling problem with your refridgerator. The first and most common is dirt dust and lint clogging the condenser coils. These coils are usually located underneath the refridgerator and have a small fan that blows air across them. If they are clogged, the refridgerator cannot get rid of the heat to allow it to cool properly. To check and clean these coils you must first pull out the refridgerator and unplug it. Remove the lower panel ( usually made of a cardboard material) this will give you access to the compressor and fan and coils. Check the coils for dust,dirt and lint. Clean out carefully with a vacuum cleaner or brush( you can get a brush specially made for this ) check the fan motor to see if it spins freely( some units may not have a fan) plug unit in to see if fan runs (make sure to temporarily turn thermostat down colder to turn on compressor and fan). If fan does not come on with compressor you may need to replace it. Put unit back in place and see if that solves the problem. If this does not help, you will probably have to have a appliance repairman check out unit.Hope this helps.
Brand and model number will help someone answer your question easier. But to guess the problem I would think the fan is the answer. Both interior and exterior fans must run while any cooler or refrigerator or it will cause the compressor to over heat and stop cooling. Running with a bad fan can also damage the compressor internal overload. f you unplug the fan wires and test for voltage you should get your local voltage unless the fans are DC. Thanks, Lit me know the model and make and I will help you further, Sea Breeze
The refrigerator will not operate properly if the compressor fan does not turn. This fan is what removes the heat from the refrigerant by pulling room air across the coils.
You will need to replace the fan motor. These are readily available at the numerous internet sites that sell appliance parts. It will likely be around $100.00. These are usually held in place with some kind of bracket and will have electrical connections. It likely will be an easy repair if access is easy.
Hi, Do you hear any click noise? Is your refrigerator warming up and you hear a humming sound, and maybe even a CLICK, coming from the compressor in back. First check the compressor start relay. If that checks well, then you’re probably looking at a bad compressor. After you’ve confirmed that the compressor is bad, you’re faced with a choice: replace the compressor or buy a new refrigerator. If you think you can replace the compressor yourself, then this article will help you with that.
Most times this is a bad cold control, but there are other things to check for. Make sure the condenser fan is working and the coils are not covered with dust. A separated heat exchanger (small capillary tubing soldered to the large suction line) can separate from one another and make the fridge run too long. - tape tubing back together. A poor working evaporator fan motor could also make the fridge run too long and freeze - replace the fan motor. An inefficient compressor or refrigeration system could make the fridge run too long and freeze - have a service tech check this out. Misaligned control settings make sure the air damper and cold control have not been bumped and are out of normal settings. Stuck open air diffusers or air dampers are becoming more and more common for allowing too much air to be blown into the fresh food section and freezing things. On all frost free fridge's the freezer temp air is blown into the fresh food section, if you have "easy" to freeze items ( eggs, veggies in water, etc ) in front of or under where the freezer temp air comes out, they could freeze - store them in a different spot. Doors not closing properly making the fridge run too long are something else to check for.
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First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you
do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned
on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board
assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is
running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items
to look for to check out your compressor:
Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start
components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to
ground and across to each other.
If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be
different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be
close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a
couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor
if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words
everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the
compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem
solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically
inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace
the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to
12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours
and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And
about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other
1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from
a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.
30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t
i'm suspecting a defective relay/overload on the compressor
to test remove the rear cover, the locate the compressor there should be two wires to it (with power off disconnect them)after that, hook them to the voltmeter leads and carefully plug in the fridge make sure the wires don't touch and verify if you have voltage if so, relay overload is defective after changing and unit still won't power it's the compressor. hope to be of some assistance also on the main board theres a high voltage side you can check voltage from L1 and comp terminal (i think that what there labled, i worked on one some time back) there should be 120 there if not suspect a faulty board , contact if you need more info i could send you a service manual in pdf that i have that could assist you. e-mail's firstname.lastname@example.org
I found this post by searching on the capacitor number, JSU21X126AQC. My 2001 Kenmore refrigerator (don't have model# here) compressor didn't run, but I heard it hum for a few seconds and then a click. That's the Klixon overload doing its job. I measured resistance of the compressor leads same as original poster. This lead me to determine that the windings were not open or shorted. The wiring to the compressor also fed the condenser fan, and it was running, so power was at least all the way to the compressor. What I did find was that the 12uF capacitor was only 4uF. My digital volt meter has a capacitor check range. This compressor circuit is a permanent split capacitor type. Without the proper capacitance, the compressor can't start. I replaced it with a 10uF, 220v AC capacitor I had, and now it runs fine. I wonder how many refrigerators are scrapped because of this inexpensive problem?