Question about Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Compressor runs, fans don't

I checked power to the interior fan with the compressor on and it had voltage across the leads. Have reset unit several times with no result. Suspect burnt out fan transformer unless there is a reset button somewhere or another control that I cannot see.

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Hi thomasej

There is no reset button anywhere for the fans. Like you said, it could be a burnt out transformer or it could be that the defrost timer went bad. Let me know what you decide to do and if you are able to fix it. If not, let me know and I would be glad to help you with any further questions or concerns that you may have.

Posted on May 27, 2008

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Fans wear out too, did it make any unusual noises befor it stopped working?

Posted on May 27, 2008

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Refrigerator not cooling properly


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Wine cooler not cooling below 65 lights works but not fan any ideas


Brand and model number will help someone answer your question easier. But to guess the problem I would think the fan is the answer. Both interior and exterior fans must run while any cooler or refrigerator or it will cause the compressor to over heat and stop cooling. Running with a bad fan can also damage the compressor internal overload. f you unplug the fan wires and test for voltage you should get your local voltage unless the fans are DC. Thanks, Lit me know the model and make and I will help you further, Sea Breeze

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Here's how to test the fan.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

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Compressor works, interior fan? seems to blow a little fan by compressor does not blow, freezer will not frreze fridge area cool not cold


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I HAVE A GE PROFILE REFRIGERATOR MODEL PST27SRGB SS SERIAL MG431690. WE HAD A POWER SHOTDOWN AND WHEN THE POWER CAME BACK THE REFRIGERATOR DOES NOT WANT TO OPERATE,EVEN THE INTERIOR LIGHT DO NOT LIT. I...


Hi,
Do you hear any click noise?
Is your refrigerator warming up and you hear a humming sound, and maybe even a CLICK, coming from the compressor in back. First check the compressor start relay. If that checks well, then you’re probably looking at a bad compressor. After you’ve confirmed that the compressor is bad, you’re faced with a choice: replace the compressor or buy a new refrigerator. If you think you can replace the compressor yourself, then this article will help you with that.
Most times this is a bad cold control, but there are other things to check for. Make sure the condenser fan is working and the coils are not covered with dust. A separated heat exchanger (small capillary tubing soldered to the large suction line) can separate from one another and make the fridge run too long. - tape tubing back together. A poor working evaporator fan motor could also make the fridge run too long and freeze - replace the fan motor. An inefficient compressor or refrigeration system could make the fridge run too long and freeze - have a service tech check this out. Misaligned control settings make sure the air damper and cold control have not been bumped and are out of normal settings. Stuck open air diffusers or air dampers are becoming more and more common for allowing too much air to be blown into the fresh food section and freezing things. On all frost free fridge's the freezer temp air is blown into the fresh food section, if you have "easy" to freeze items ( eggs, veggies in water, etc ) in front of or under where the freezer temp air comes out, they could freeze - store them in a different spot. Doors not closing properly making the fridge run too long are something else to check for.
Thank you for contacting Fixya.com

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1 Answer

Lights work on the interior but fan and compressor do not


Fan Outside or inside?

First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:

Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

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1 Answer

No cooling at all


i'm suspecting a defective relay/overload on the compressor

to test remove the rear cover, the locate the compressor there should be two wires to it (with power off disconnect them)after that, hook them to the voltmeter leads and carefully plug in the fridge make sure the wires don't touch and verify if you have voltage if so, relay overload is defective after changing and unit still won't power it's the compressor. hope to be of some assistance also on the main board theres a high voltage side you can check voltage from L1 and comp terminal (i think that what there labled, i worked on one some time back) there should be 120 there if not suspect a faulty board , contact if you need more info i could send you a service manual in pdf that i have that could assist you. e-mail's hvac.tech7872pr@gmail.com

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4 Answers

GE Refrigerator Compressor Inop.


I found this post by searching on the capacitor number, JSU21X126AQC. My 2001 Kenmore refrigerator (don't have model# here) compressor didn't run, but I heard it hum for a few seconds and then a click. That's the Klixon overload doing its job. I measured resistance of the compressor leads same as original poster. This lead me to determine that the windings were not open or shorted. The wiring to the compressor also fed the condenser fan, and it was running, so power was at least all the way to the compressor.
What I did find was that the 12uF capacitor was only 4uF. My digital volt meter has a capacitor check range. This compressor circuit is a permanent split capacitor type. Without the proper capacitance, the compressor can't start. I replaced it with a 10uF, 220v AC capacitor I had, and now it runs fine. I wonder how many refrigerators are scrapped because of this inexpensive problem?

Jan 22, 2008 | Frigidaire 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

3 Answers

Lighns on - nothing else


well i have a 75r also with the same symptoms but there's no freezer in this model so I don't know how it could be the defrost timer.

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