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if you have no life and you changed the fuse the you have a dead power supply,.that is the board you replaced the fuse,.is there a red light showing, or flashing, if not then you do have power problem,.did you see and capastors popped,.
Rear Projection Televisions are not like other televisions that can run
maintenance-free for 20 years or more. They need to have their lamps
changed on occasion, and most have air filters that need to be cleaned
every month or two. Lamps typically last about 8,000 hours on most
models high end models, some of the cheaper models last only
1,000-2,000 hours. Keep in mind however that some lamps won't make it
all the way to their estimated life spans. If you operate your LCD or
DLP TV in a warm environment that is not adequately ventilated, or at
higher elevations, this can reduce lamp life. Failing to keep the air
filter clean may reduce lamp life as well. And some lamps will just
fail sooner than others--estimating average lamp life is not an exact
science and testing methods vary greatly among manufacturers. ere is a checklist of what to do to get the most out of your lamp:
Check out the presets and select the setting with the lowest light output.
Once you've done that adjust the brightness down to your liking. The lower the brightness the long the lamp will last.
and clean the air filters on a monthly basis. Having a clean air
filters means that your lamp has better airflow. Air is what is used to
cool the lamp and the cooler your lamp runs the longer it will last.
Each owner's manual for a rear projection TV comes with instructions
on how to replace the lamp. Here are the typical steps for replacing a
Turn your TV off. Let it sit there for about 5 minutes to let the cooling fan help cool the lamp.
your TV from the power let it sit about another 30 minutes. Even with
the TV turned off power is still going to the lamp and the lamp
receptacle can still be hot enough to burn you. Even if you think that
the lamp is cool I recommend that you do not touch the receptacle.
the lamp has a cover that you will need to unscrew. Most manufactures
use a Philips head screw for holding the cover shut. Unscrew the lamp
Unpackage the replacement lamp. Be careful not to tough the glass, as oil from your fingers can damage the lamp's surface.
the lamp out. Most lamps have a plastic tab or hoop on the handle that
you can use to pull it out. Follow the owners manual for specific
instructions on how to pull the lamp out. Make sure you do not touch
the surrounding lamp housing if you just turned off the TV. It can burn
you if it is hot.
After the lamp has cooled, place it into the empty box of the replacement lamp. Never put the used lamp into a plastic bag.
the guiding post also called "gutters" by some manufactures slide the
lamp replacement lamp in pushing it until you hear a firm click.
Hello, this problem can be fixed by opening the back cover of the television to check for blown fuses, and if found replace with the same current rating and if otherwise the power board supply is bad try websites Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a refurbish power supply board for the replacement.
*This was posted in another thread as a solution to your problem, it would seem that this procedure is for the TV savvy, and I would not recommend that you do this procedure, and that you bring it to a TV repair shop. Or if the TV is still under warranty that you turn it in. But if you are planning on following these instructions I wish you luck, and make sure you follow them to the word so you don't mess up your TV even more.
Found that the thermistor/temp measuring device is suspect, noresistance across legs. There is a label there that says F701 seeservice manual http://www.goodmans.net/get_item_th-tf117c_thermal-fuse-117-degrees-celsius.htm I went here for a tech manual for the Panasonic tv. http://www.ManualsParadise.com then ordered Manufacturer: Panasonic Part Description: FUSE Part Number: LSJA0411-1 from PartStore.com it was mounted to the case that holds the lamp. had to remove the backpanel, etc. Also think I had to splice in the fuse or something. was awhile ago.
i purchased a NTE8115 from my electronics supplier, closest I could find. Radio shack also has them.
remove the back cover and measure for continuity across the thermal fuse above the lamp housing. if open jump it wth a 5 amp fuse, be sure to close the safety switch with the small blue lever then try to power on. If comes on ok you will need to replace the entire ballast assembly to get that fuse. Panasonic does not have a part number for just the fuse on the PT40LC series. It is possible to cut off the fuse and replace with another but dont solder
Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.
1. Gas valve coils Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.
Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.
2. Thermal fuse Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
3. Igniter Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.
Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).
4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor) Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.
being LCD, Its not easy to work on it your self like an old days which you can open the back up and pull out the big parts and replace it. with the new technology things are getting smaller and car become Hi-tec makes it impossible for us to even touch. Giving you instruction over the Net can be be a hazzard when it come to electricity. All manufacture give you at least 1 year of factory warranty on it. I assumed your TV is out of warranty or have no extended warranty on it; if yes, call the manufacture and they will send you a shipping code to package it and send it off and they will pay for everthing. if its out of warranty than you might want to take it to a local tv repair and have them do it. I dont recommend anyone without electrical back gound to work on any LCD TV. The problems with your TV can be three things, 1 lcd controller, 2nd fuse, 3rd transformer (voltage converter) inside may be bad, my did almost the same but channel will not change. Your local TV repair shop will get it in and out fairly quick will cost you lot less than replacing new one. its prob cost you 175-250 to fix it, depend on what they charge for labor; than again you can buy a refurbish unit for 350-400 bucks. On the other hands, there a few thing you can check before taking it to TV repairman, 1st you can lay the TV face down on flat serface and take phillips screw driver and open the back up and check the fuse making sure the fuse is not blown; if that check out fine it could be transformer burnt out giving no power to the TV and switch wont work. if your Voltage Coverter is good than it would be the lcd control unit which cost 75-80 bucks. one nice thing to have a pro work on it very little to nothing is that he can warranty it if it fail again. i hope that help you in some way...
an original lamp (original brand name of the tv) can be "alive" there for some years. if you want to buy a tv an suspect that the one is good or not just turn around that area one or a couple of weeks if still working with a great bright and crispy color is good symptom> (some re-manufacture lamps just work a couple of hours even new)
The lamp's life is a question mark in this technology (optimistic ingeniers (brands) count these hours as 1, 2 ,3, (thousand hours) (actually some manufactures count the time ""it is a simple timer the microprocessor can manage pretty well, but is not the mean of a good o bad lamp""
but i recommend my customers to have a spare lamp (just in case you are watching a beatles show) and blowns, you have it in the garage and (consulting the user manual) you change it a as regular bulb in your house.
But the lamp life "and this is the tip": (only two states)
the picture tends to look dark or dimm (is logical because the high intensity the lamp works tends to create a tiny black surface on the heater and tends to consume more current and the answer is a dark picture as i told you already.
the lamp blown (of course the tv cannot work and the LED "lamp" turns on or keep steady on the front panel with a complete dark screen.
Sounds like you probably should have had a surge protector, Kind of an expensive lesson to learn. 20 or 30 bucks for a couple thousand dollar pay off, but anyway, learn from the mistake and put your computer and stuff on one. Well anyway, most TV's will have a fuse in the main power supply that you can order from allied electronics, or your local radio shack. Hopefully you are lucky and after you replace the fuse the TV comes right back to life, if not, it is an excellent excuse to make a trip to your local best buy. =) Hope this helps,
I paid to have one of the experts on this page help me with my Hitachi 55 in, and all they would recommend was to replace the Convergence Amplifiers. I read elsewhere, that this TV has a habitual problem with fuse E994 and a capacitor c707. I just replaced both for a little more than $5.00, and the TV came back to life!!!! I'll try to find the web page that I referenced for the repair, and let you know.
Usually when we see this kind of symptom it is due to an internal fuse being blown. Sometimes they blow for seemingly no reason, but once replaced the camera functions as normal and lives a long productive life. With a camera this new it is a highly likely explanation for sudden death. The fuse is not user accessible and the camera will have to be sent to a repair facility or the manufacturer for the problem to be diagnosed and the fuse replaced.
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