Question about Mitsubishi WT-46807 46" Rear Projection Television
Unfortunately this problem is going to require a technician to diagnose but of the two things it could be neither part is very expensive your problem is either a faulty fuse or circuit or that your power supply for the television has burnt out and is going to need a replacement. the whole ordeal would probably take a tv repair tech maybe an hour to diagnose and fix so labor should not be expensive and i would suggest getting the tv fixed professionally to avoid doing anymore damage to it in the process of fixing it
hope this helps
Posted on Oct 07, 2010
your TV is having a power problem. The power supply board is defective that's why the TV powers off and blinks. Its receiving power but it cannot transfer the current to the necessary part of the TV because a capacitor, diode, etc may have been faulty. Until these bad components are replaced, the TV might not come on.
If you know about TV repairers, I would suggest that you open the TV and read the power board/panel with a meter, detect the bad component and replace it. Take note that TV stores a lot of current that can shock, so leave the TV for a while before you open it.
You can go further by checking the TV's line transformer. When a TV line transformer is faulty, it can cause TV to blink.
If you don't know about TV repairers, take the TV to the nearest repairman to fix the fault for you.
I wish you good luck.
Posted on Oct 05, 2010
It seems that SD tech is not available at this moment unless he might have answered this question. I would be glad to help you to fix this problem.
the code 2-2 does indicates a short protect fault, which is usually caused by a failure in the convergence section. This is a very common repair in these sets. The typical repair involves replacing the convergence ICs (integrated circuits), and testing/replacing two small pico fuses.
The replacement ICs for your set are part number: STKxxx-xxx and are available from www.encompassparts.com for $19.95 each (needs two). You will also need at least one (likely two) 5 Amp pico fuses. If you wish to repair this yourself, the ICs are located on the large heat sink on the center (Power) PC board. The fuses are also on this board, near the center, location numbers: F9A04 and F9A05. You would need soldering equipment and very good soldering skills to replace these parts.
SD Tech, I have a Mitsubishi - 73c0734.jpgsrc="http://i.fixya.net/uploads/images/73c0734.jpg" alt="73c0734.jpg" class="h_mi" />
If you were to call a local shop to repair this, the labor to replace these is roughly $250-275 (in my area) if the TV were brought in to the shop. Please add a trip charge if repaired in the home.
The fuses must be tested with a multimeter to see if they are bad. They are only $2.50 each, so most people without a meter just change them both. If the repair has any problems, like a solder bridge, you may need a meter to check them after that. A good magnifying glass helps prevent solder bridges (for me, anyway).
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
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Posted on Oct 03, 2010
Above please find your service manual, if you decide to DIY.
This is a classic switchmode power supply, the special fault detection circuitry in the PSU, well, it is shutting the set down to avoid a fire, explosion, or both. This set had developed a problem, that is potentially so severe that the set must be shut down, immediately.
This set should be removed from the Power,
Now if you are wanting to have a go and try to repair you set, well OK But PLEASE, start in the right place, otherwise you will simply waste your time and money, You see, you MUST start, in the right place, The power supply, FIRST, as, if, that isn't right, nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now, also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" and replace them, because someone else had done so and it worked, well that maybe sometimes true, but most Symptoms, can, and do have many, many different "Causes" & also, now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or even, ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
In my professional recommendation, though, you should get a "Quote" for repair, from, an, Approved Service Center, this point is very important for a good result, Always contact, their local, "Head Office" Now, when you get the information you want, then you can decide as to repair of replacement. The reason we want an approved agent, is that way, all the engineers are trained on their own brand sets, they have seen almost all faults, and will get the job done quicker, and for less cost, and usually have parts on hand, also sometimes, there has been a service bulletin in issued and the repair may be subsided or even free.
These rear projection sets are the hardest, and most complex, units to repair... The Tools you will need are A SERVICE MANUAL a Good Multimeter, a Signal generator, a Signal Tracer, pref an Oscilloscope, Soldering Iron, De-soldering iron, Probably, too, A SMT Hot Air desolderer (for the Surface Mount IC's), Compressed Air, An Anti-Static Wrist Strap, (MOST IMPORTANT, to prevent ESD), Cutters, Screwdrivers, sometimes, Torx, drivers too. Tweezers, are real handy, a magnifying glass, or eyepiece, a good strong white Light. OH, and you MUST have the original remote control too, (Sometimes one must obtain, purchase, a special "Servicing remote") as one needs this to "Program" the Computer in the TV, after, and during servicing, and to be able to put the TV, into "Service Mode" too.
Posted on Oct 03, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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