Question about Fisher and Paykel Fisher & Paykel Washer

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My F and P Smart drive washer is about 9years old. Model GW609. It stopped draining and so I replaced the drain pump (as I thought this was the most likely cause), I started the wash cycle on Spin only, to test the repair. It started to do as it should, then all the lights went out and it stopped. Now I am not able to turn it back on. How do I find out what is wrong with it now, if it wont go? Before it stopped working I looked up what lights were on for faults, and it came up with lights 2,3,4,6 and 7. (Out of a possible 8 lights, read left to right).

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  • k9swannie Oct 03, 2010

    The code I wrote was the middle set of lights. Once pressing the up and down buttons as I was instructed to do, it had only light number 7 on at the top, the code I mentioned in the middle and lights 6,7 and 8 at the bottom. Not knowing which one was the fault code, I just chose the middle one, as it seemed to represent the most information. Which one should I have used? I looked for a tech sheet but nothing there.

  • k9swannie Oct 03, 2010

    Thanks, I will try new part tomorrow.

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  • Master
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The fault code 118 as what the lights indicated is not in the list of possible code the machine can display. The usual cause of issues like yours is a blown fuse in the motor controller module. All you can do is raise the console up to access and check the motor controller module for such and failure. Replace the motor controller module if any sign of failure is found.

Posted on Oct 03, 2010

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 03, 2010

    Read the code from the set of Wash Progress LEDs that tells you on what step of the cycle the machine is during normal operation.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Why is my washer letting water escape at drain hose when filling but stops when it starts to agitate


highly normal for top loader model washers of the old age since it is relative to the level of water being placed into the wash basket of the washer and only drains as the drain pump is being used

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Have old kenmore elite he3 washer. Have wet laundry after spin out. Have checked ball be low drum, replaced strainer, pump motor, cleaned all hoses. Did a test run in the drain and spin cycle. For like 7...


If the washer is taking more water during spin, then most likely it is thinking the water level is low for the load. It is a smart washer and tries to adjust water according to load. This can mean the level sensor is giving wrong sensor. I would try to run the washer with a cleaning agent (not bleach) available from specialist stores or washing machine retailers.
Also observe if the drain pump is running all through the spin cycle. If not that is likely causing water to remain. But controller is thinking there is no water and not starting the pump when required.

You should be able to locate the parts in these diagrams.
KENMORE ELITE Washer Parts Model 11049962600

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That is Error 37 pump blocked.
37.(00100101) Pump Blocked Error (No change in the water level)
While draining, the water level reading from the pressure sensor has not changed for over 3 minutes. There are three likely reasons for this fault. One is that the drain hose or the pressure switch hose has been squashed or kinked and the pump out rate has been dramatically reduced. The second possibility is that the pump is partially or fully blocked. The third is that the pump is not operating due to Motor Control Module, wiring or pump failure. This fault could also appear if the machine is pumping to an unusually high head of drain hose or into an extended length of drain hose. The fourth possibility is a diverter valve fault or blockage, water level is not altering as the diverter is stuck in the recirculation mode, giving the module the appearance the pump is not lowering the water level.
Primary Source:
Action:1)
Pump System.
Check that the drain hose has not been kinked.
2) Check the length of the drain hose and try to reduce the length if
excessively long. A 39.36in / 1 metre extension hose of the same diameter fitted to the existing drain hose is the maximum allowable length.
3) Check for open circuit windings in the pump. (Note: Pumps are
fitted with a thermal cut-out, which will reset on cooling.)
4) If the basket is empty of water, remove the pump from the pump
housing and check that it is not blocked. Also check the drain hose is not blocked.
5) If the basket contains water, then service the pump from the top of
the machine by removing the top deck and inner basket. Bail out the water, remove the pump cap and hood and clear the restriction.
Secondary Source: Wiring.
Action:
Tertiary Source:
Action:
1) Check the pump harness is connected correctly to the pump. 2) Check continuity of the pump harness.
Motor Control Module module.
Activate the pump by operating the machine in spin mode. Check the pump is rotating. If it is not operating, and Primary and Secondary checks have been performed, then replace the Motor Control Module.

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2. Pump does not run----readjust & tighten pump, drive mechanism
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1 Answer

Machine stops when gets to the spin cycle- last time was a hair clip stuck in pump. How do I get into the pump to get it out myself? Is a fisher and paykel smart drive about 9 yrs old.


Hi just read your posting.Is the machine draining any of the water?If it is not draining then bail some of the water out with a small bucket or pot, just enough so you can look under the machine without it leaking everywhere.Now when you are looking under the machine look to the front right and you will see a red or black fan.This is your pump.Turn the fan clockwise and anticlockwise a few times to loosen it if it is jammed.The fan should turn freely.If the pump turns freely then put the machine back on its feet and select a spin cycle and push start.The machine should now drain the water and then it will spin.Please reply on how you got on or if the machine still does not drain.Looking forward to your reply.

Jul 29, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel Fisher & Paykel Washer

1 Answer

Won't empty


It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these: It spins, but doesn't pump It doesn't spin or pump It pumps, but the water returns It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems: If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Jan 01, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Whirlpool Top Loader Stopped working mid-cycle & rattling


It sounds like you have a broken motor coupling. If you manually advance the dial does it drain? The washer is a direct drive model that uses an electric drive motor to run the gearcase (transmission) and the drain pump. Even with the coupler broken (and worse-case scenario - the gearcase) the washer will still drain due to the way it is designed.

If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, this is usually a sign that the motor coupling has broken. The noise of the motor engaging, rattling noises, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are other common symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top

The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer.

A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
If you confirmed that the washer will not drain, you could have a pump that has something caught in it. The drain on these washers on have one moving part - the impeller. If something gets caught in it, the pump will not drain. You can access the pump by following this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r397094-replacing_water_pump

Use the steps in the link provided to access the drain pump and remove the hoses to check inside the pump for any foreign objects (underwires from bras, undergarments and panty hose are common items). If the wash tub is still full of water an easy way to drain it with no mess is to use a wet/dry shop vac to pull the water from the tub. Simple gravity works too by removing one of the drain hoses, but is not recommended if the washer is in your home. These wash tubs have a 35 gallon capacity. If you have no shop vac and cannot risk allowing the washer to drain by pulling one of the drain hoses, you need to bail.

If the pump is defective, the part number is 3363892 and can be purchased at appliancepartspros.com for about $42.

If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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