Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Frigidaire Front Load Washer
You need to replace the Motor controller speed asm part number 134149220 they are about 165.00. very easy part to replace you have to remove the back panel and the control board is on the bottom left side two scews and two plugs.
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
I had the same problem. Take the agitator off by pulling on it extremely hard - use allen wrenches in the slots on the sides to help. This exposes the "air bell coupler" - take the 7/16" bolt out and slide it off. Chances are the spline is stripped out inside. The part is 5 bucks online
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
The reason for your washing machine not to spin would be of a faulty motor coupling.
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
Thank you for contacting Fixya.com
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
You will need to remove the lower kick panel directly below the door to gain access to the inside cabinet to see where the leak may be coming from. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off.
NOTE: Propping the two front feet of the washer up with something (a 2x4 works well for this) will give you better access to the screws.
The most common source of leakage on this washer is the rubber bellow around the door. It can develop cracks or tears over time and require replacement. A tell-tale sign is the front counterweight (looks like a concrete block on the front of the wash tub) looking wet. The counterweight will remain dry if the tub is sealed properly. From the inside of the washer, pull the rubber folds back on the door bellow and inspect the perimeter for any rips or tears. If the bellow is damaged, it must be replaced. The following link explains how:
If the bellow is intact, check the rear bellow seal where it connects to the front of the wash tub. If the clamp comes loose the bellow can shift and begin to leak. Tighten if necessary.
Check the drain pump and hoses to ensure they are not leaking. The drain pump is directly in the front under the wash tub.
Check the area directly below the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the wash tub iteself, you may have a bad tub seal. A replacement gasket doesn't cost much at all, but the labor involved is extensive.
Another simple problem is the dispenser tube(s) that come through the door bellow. Sometimes, these small tubes will work their way behind the rubber in the door and leak when the washer attempts to fill or rinse. This is a simple matter of adjusting the tubes to ensure they are seated through the door gasket properly.
If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
NOTE: You can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some excellent exploded view diagrams of your washer for reference in locating components.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
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