Question about GE Ovens

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The broil unit in the upper oven of a GE double oven does not work. The heating unit has continuity, 17.5 ohms, when connected, but that should be the resistance of the unit itself with all switches off. However, there is no 230 V. voltage across its terminals with the control switch turned to "broil." I recently replaced the entire control unit after a total failure of the upper oven.

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The broil element doesn't get 240 volts,it's 120.also you should have the oven unplugged,pull out the element and read it out or at least one wire has to be removed from the part you're checking for continuity

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

  • Sal DeAngelo Oct 03, 2010

    the bake element gets 240 volts but make sure you have the power off to the oven before you touch the elements or you'll blow the board again.if you want to chek the elements you don't need power to do it,if the elements are good then you'll have to check things out with the power on but be careful.there should be 120 volts to each side of the bake element if that's what you're checking,ground one side of the meter and touch one side of the element and you should have 120 volts and the same on the other side but the broiler doesn't get 240,it gets 120 volts.hope that helps you out.let me know what you find

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My top oven won't reach temperature. Convection and broil work, bake doesn't. Over a year ago I did a self clean...hasn't worked since. I really need it to work especially with Thanksgiving next week.


It does sound like the element may be bad. The control will cycle the bake and broil elements to even the heat in the oven. if the element is out the oven won't heat well.

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Possibly a tripped thermal fuse. Should be located behind the panel in between the upper and lower ovens. Might have a red reset button on it you can push down. If it clicks and then works again, look for possible cooling fan problems.

May 12, 2014 | GE JTP45 Electric Double Oven

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I have a thermador double oven model # C302ZS/01 the upper/lower selection does not respond for oven selection


THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Nov 03, 2013 | Thermador Ovens

1 Answer

UPPER OVEN WORKS, LOWER OVEN DOES NOT, NOT ERROR CODE


THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!




http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Jan 14, 2013 | Thermador C302U Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

GE Profile JTP85 (installed 1998). The lower heat element in the lower oven will not heat. I can make the upper element heat up by using the BROIL function, but neither element gets warm on BAKE.


Hi,


If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101


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Dec 11, 2010 | GE JTP85 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

My bottom oven ( non-confection) will not go on-it will just sat 100 degrees but won't get warm or hot. Top seems to be working fine. This started after I tried to use the self cleaning feature.


If broil and bake do not work on your bottom oven, it is probably your lower thermistor or control board. If the bake works but broil doesn't or broil works and bake doesn't, it is very likely your heating element. With an ohmmeter, the heating elements should be about 40 ohms. Much higher or lower signals a problem. If you suspect the control board is the problem, they can be repaired quickly and reliably at www.fixyourboard.com

Oct 11, 2010 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Oven will not turn on. but stove top works fine. model#jgbs07pea2ww


A common problem is the heating element goes bad. I have had this happen and you can see a spot on the heating element which looks different from the rest of the element (a clue).

Many ovens have two heating elements. Upper and lower. Now I am no Julia Child, but I think bake turns on just the lower heating element? And broil turns on just the top heating element????

So I suppose you might have it on bake and it is not working. Might try broil and see if that works. If yes, then you are getting power through all the controls to the upper heating element, so good chance just the lower heating element is bad.

If you don't get heat to either the upper or lower heating element, then I would suspect the wiring or a control.

So far as the heating element, you should be able to remove it and using an ohm meter, get some sort of reading if it is good (I have no idea what though). Or open circuit if bad.

Also the insulation on older ranges can "melt" back exposing live wires! This is of course very dangerous and the wiring should only be replaced with high heat range wiring which I assume you could get at an appliance store?

Or the contacts on a control/switch could be bad. I would test this with a continuity tester or ohm meter.

Many appliances have a wiring diagram down low somewhere. Or might find it online.

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If it is only the broil that is not working the the problem is more than likely the main board, the thermal fuse and double line break relays will affect all the elements in the oven in question. Due be careful the likely hood that you have no voltage at your element is not very good. If you have the terminals connected to the element you are probably reading a zero potential, try measuring from terminal to chasis ground should get 120v. on the main control looks like k-9 for the upper broil and k-13 for the lower broil relays

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cdkd, there should be a TC0, on the back of the oven. Thermal cut out. You want to check to see if it is open. You will have to pull the oven out enough that you can remove the back panel cover and check it. The lower and upper oven should have one. It's a very cheap part to replace. If this TCO fails, no heat. Check this first before buying a new board. Catriver..post back.

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