Question about General Electric GE DBVH520EJWW Electric Dryer

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The "Clean Lint Filter" message is on. I checked my manual that came with the dryer. Under "Troubleshooting", it says to "Press START to begin a dry cycle and the message will disappear. I tried that, but it does not make the message disappear. I turned the dryer on and checked the air flow of the dryer vent. It was working fine. What do can I do to fix this?

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: dryer takes more than one cycle to dry clothes

Did you clean the entire length of the vent ducting? Or, did you only clean the lint trap on the dryer and the exhaust vent outside? If you didn't clean the ducting as well, you may still have a clog somewhere causing your dryer to be "starved" for air. A dryer needs proper air flow to dry properly. One way to check is to turn the dryer on and go outside to the exhaust vent opening. Feel to see if you have sufficient air flow. If the air flow is weak, you have a clog. If not, you may have a high limit thermostat cutting off prematurely, not allowing the heating element to heat long enough. Check your ducting first and let me know if this helps.

Posted on Jul 28, 2007

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: MCG8000AWW takes too long to dry

The font panel must be removed. This may be done by removing the control console (open upper cabinet doors to find screws behind the console). The screws along the top of the lower front panel are easily accessible. Disconnect the two interlock switches, remove the grounding clip attached to the bulkhead & lift the panel off the two lower clips. Inside the panel is a housing that leads to the exhaust blower. It will be packed with lint that may be hardened like papier mache. Just clean out the mess & reverse the process to replace the parts.

Posted on May 30, 2009

  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet dryer not drying like it used to

If your duet isn't heating properly and you have taken care of the lint problem then you could have one of two problems. Either you have a bad heating element or you have a bad fuse or temperature sensor.
If your dryer is not heating at all then it is most likely the fuse or temp sensor. If it is heating and just not enough it is probably a bad heating element.
Both problems would require a repairman to come and fix normally, however if you believe it is the heating element that can usually be replaced by the homeowner without too much trouble. Just make sure to ask where it is located from whatever place you but the new element from.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite HE3 Dryer is not drying.

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

  • 3074 Answers

SOURCE: Ithe GE dryer DPSE810 just

this website will help, Tim:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

Posted on Feb 06, 2011

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Why is my Affinity dryer not heating as well as it was put new dryer hose in back just taking touble time to dry a small load of clother & I double spin the load also


Good Morning Friend,

I understand that your Frigidaire Affinity dryer is taking double the time to dry a small load of clothes. I also see that you have put a new dryer hose on the back of your appliance to try and correct this issue. I suggest making sure that you have also cleaned out the lint filter as well as where the lint filter sits. You can clean the lint filter by running it under the hottest water you can stand and using a cleaning brush, gently, to remove any build-up. You can clean where the lint filter sits with a small attachment on your vacuum. I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your appliances status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful.

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This problem is commonly caused by a blown thermal fuse located on the blower housing behind the bottom panel. Remove the bottom panel then the lint duct and check continuity of the thermal fuse. You can also bypass the thermal fuse for troubleshooting purposes. Check for blocked lint filter and restricted vent system if the thermal fuse is indeed blown then replace it including the thermistor. Click on the link below for detailed troubleshooting of this common problem.

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Dryer "clean lint filter" message


Hello. Begin by unplugging the plug on the dryer. Then pull out the filter and thoroughly examine the space that the filter slides into looking for any lint. Remove any lint that you find. Put the filter back and lastly plug the dryer back in.

These steps should solve the problem. If not, then the lint sensor has gone bad and should be replaced. If you wish to do that yourself you can go to searspartsdirect.com. Enter the model number of the dryer and then you will see the parts diagrams allowing you to locate that lint sensor, and even order a new one. Joe

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

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I recently had an ventless Bosch dryer installed (WTE8600US) and I keep receiving this message F:03 which the manual says "check hose for condensation outlet". any advice?


For the F:03 problem on the Bosch Axxis (WTE86300US) do all the things mentioned in Solution #1 above. Sometimes the lint in the condensation filter channels (those that run from front to back)can be quite stuck. Use a pipe cleaner to get in there or a garden hose with a spray nozzle. However there is one more crucial step not mentioned in the manual or in Solution #1. Once you remove the condensation filter you will see a small plastic panel on the lower wall of the condensation filter slot. Slide a flat blade screwdriver and gently pop it open. Under the panel is a small chamber where you will find a slurry of lint/water which is what clogs the condensation outlet. With latex gloves reach in there and clean it out. Blow hard into the dryer through the condensation hose to clear up any last bits. Pop the panel back in place. This should fix your problem.

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For Sgt 48 - You are not reading the original message very well - The original help question didn't say they saw check filter at the beginning or end of a dry cycle they indicated that the dryer STOPS MID DRY and says check filter - this is not a friendly reminder, it is indicating something is wrong and the filter needs to be completely cleaned out (and past the filter down in the interior of the dryer) and if that does not work then you need to also check the dryer hose for kinks, lint build up, etc. Lastly, reset the dryer by unplugging it (or flipping the breaker) for a minute or so and hold down on the start/pause button for 8 seconds while it is unplugged (this will reset the error code for check filter, among other things).

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My Miele T8322 Tumble dryer turns off before the clothes its fully dry even in Extra Dry mode. The vent pipe is clear. Is there any kind of adjustment or do I need to get a new sensor under warranty...


IS THE DRYER PUSHED UP AGAINST THE VENTING IN THE BACK OF THE DRYER? IT MAY BE CRIMPING THE EXHAUST MATERIAL CAUSING A RESTRICTION.

IF THAT IS O.K., DISCONNECT THE EXHAUST AND RUN A LOAD OF LAUNDRY THROUGH A NORMAL DRY CYCLE.
IF THE DRYER DRIES THAT LOAD O.K., THERE IS A RESTRICTION SOMEWHERE IN THE EXHAUST. ALSO, CHECK THE LINT TRAP. IF THERE IS A WHITE CLOUDY FILM ON THE LINT FILTER, TAKE A WIRE BRUSH AND CLEAN IT OFF. IT IS RESTRICTING THE AIR FLOW AT THE FILTER.

CHECK THE LINT FILTER HOUSING FOR A BUILD UP OF LINT. IF THERE IS, USE A CENTER CARDBOARD FROM WRAPPING PAPER ATTACHED TO THE END OF THE VACUUM HOSE. FLATTEN THE CARDBOARD TO FIT INTO THE FILTER SLOT AND CLEAN OUT THE LINT.

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