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Freezer works refrigerator doesn't model 596.75523400

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  • colonje Oct 02, 2010

    kenmore elite trio 596.75523400 freezer works refrigerator does not.

  • colonje Oct 02, 2010

    kenmore elite trio, freezer seems fine refrigerator not cooling at all. Ice & Water Systems never installed. Compressor fan works. In the past ice buildup near the tank water area. Now sometimes pools of water. Can feel circulating cold air in freezer. I have cleaned in back & grille in front. Have had issues with food being too cold in the past, adjust temperature.

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3 Answers

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 3,083 Answers

This web page describes the same problem, and what to check and replace or fix:
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/sears-kenmore/5726-help-kenmore-elite-trio-596-75523400-not-cooling.html
Sounds like the fan or wiring, so I would check that carefully.
After reading the following blog about the Elite models, you might want to contact Sear's Support to see if they're supplying parts free for life in lieu of problems they had. Here's their site:
http://www.sears.com/?sid=ISx20070515x00001a&psid=13x31569
Good luck, and hope this helps.

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 1,711 Answers

My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.

The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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  • Master
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Start with the diagnostics at the link below and post your findings back here: online-refrigerator-repair-manual

If you have additional clues in your next description, could send additional details.

Keep us updated.

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Oct 02, 2010

    Just trying to find the part numbers for you. You are correct in the way
    the cold air circulates. There is a damper control that allows the
    cooling of your fridge. I'm still checking a couple of places, and hope
    to have something posted for you shortly. Thanks for your patience.

    Sorry for the delay. Well I found some information for you. I think
    the control for the damper has gone bad. The part number for this
    particular part is #67003903. There is a possibility that you may need
    part #67004005 as well. It hard to say via computer without testing the
    circuitry. You could possibly need part # 12002339 as well. This is the
    Control board. And I am including a link below with a diagram of the
    above mentioned parts. The corresponding numbers are as follows:
    Control Board # 12002339 is number 5 on the diagram
    Damper Control # 67003903 is number 13 on the diagram
    Module, Ref. Control # 67004005 is number 4 on the diagram

    I'm assuming you don't feel any cold air blowing up from the freezer,
    correct? Also you stated the damper door was open. Part # 22
    (thermistor #12002356 ) could be bad and causing the wrong temperature
    on the fridge side. But I'm thinking the control board for the damper is
    bad #5. Unfortunately, it's probably the more expensive part of the
    two. Like I said, its hard to tell without testing the actual "hard"
    parts. Part # 5 looks fairly easy to get to. Just have to remove the
    module via a couple of "snap" clips. I'm sorry I haven't been more help
    for you. Sometimes, you get a tough one.

    Well as far as I can tell, it appears the "thermistor" is in the same
    module as the control board. Just remove those snap clips and the module
    should come out. You might consider just replacing this first, and see
    if that fixes the problem. You will save some money that way. But I know
    you too probably have a fridge full of food and I don't know what time
    constraints your under. Possibly order both parts and return the board
    if the themistor fixes the problem. Be sure to check out the "return"
    policy first. And thank you so much for all your interaction and
    patience. It does make it a lot easier.

    I
    hope this information helps you out, and please feel free to add or ask
    for any additional details. And thanks again for your patience and your
    question.

×

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Posted on Dec 07, 2008

kram26
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SOURCE: My Kenmore fridge, Model 596-58692890

HI,

if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold. Their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off. I think you do have a leak.

thanks,

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator does seem like its working right

Your refrigerator compressor is either pumping or it is not. Set the refrigerator to low temperature, pull it out and listen for a while to see it the compressor is coming on. If it is coming on then there may be a freon leak or the internal coils may be iced up. If it is not coming on, then either there is no power to the coompressor, or the compressor itself is defective. Use a voltmeter at the compressor to check for voltage. There is also an add on device to start stuck compressors from your local HIVAC jobber store.

Posted on Jun 07, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Model# 596-63822200 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator.

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


heatman101

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Compressor stop running on Kenmore

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly

Is the compressor HOT to the touch? If so unplug the unit for at least 30 minutes and plug it back in.
If the compresor is cold then it may be stuck in the auto defrosting mode. When this happens usually either the 60 Deg F Bi-metal thermosat or a thermistor has failed. Items 30 and 31 this link: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-59675523400/0583/0161000/M0705003/00010?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

(Evaporator

If that checks out then we start replacing the PTC relay and thermal overload on the compressor IF there is power to the compressor. Otherwise we start looking at temp controllers and themal fuses.
Items 10 and 11 this link:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-59675523400/0583/0161000/M0705003/00011?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

You make have to access the links above via this page http://www.searspartsdirect.com
Then enter your model number as 596.75523400 under find it fast / model search.

The other possibility is the electronic control item 5 under "controls":
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-elite-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-59675523400/0583/0161000/M0705003/00006?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

The only way to find out is to read out the circuits with a meter.

Thanks for choosing FixYa

Kelly

Posted on Oct 08, 2010

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