Question about Husqvarna Garden
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: poulan Super 1800 16" chainsaw .
My name is Dennis and I hope to be of assistance.
This sounds like a kink in the chain and I would try a new chain because this can be a very small kink and very difficult to find and straighten out. If you must put the chain saw in a vise by clamping the bar and run the chain back and forth from the sprocket to the bar grove under operating tension and locate the misalignment at the bargrove. Now you have located the problem but the fix is still sweat away, and with some luck you may be able to spring the chain straight and have the link flexable to opporate without a hitch.
Glad to be of assistance. Please rate the solution because i can learn from your rating.
Posted on Nov 09, 2008
I cannot tell you about a picture, but for one: chain direction, the bottom of the bar is where the cutting takes place, and therefore, looking at the chain, you will see, on the bottom, the antikick back link is sort of curved, and then the next part is the straight tooth. The highest part of this straight tooth is the sharp edge, and this high part should face towards the motor. The chain, on the bottom side of the bar, is pulled in towards the motor by the clutch/gear. That is your direction of travel.
As to cleaning the air filter, Hopefully you have access to compressed air, as in simply blowing off the dirt. You do not want to use liquid cleaner. Simply blow off any dirt, after pulling the filter away from the carburetor, of course. Then place it back in place.
It may be that your chain is real dull. The top edge of the high part of the flat tooth needs to be sharp. And the outside corner needs to come to a nice point. Remember, there is two cutting surfaces on each tooth, the top is cutting down into the wood, and also that outside sharp corner is openning the cut for the bar to pass through. Proper sharpening, if new to it, can be hard to grasp. Any chainsaw manual should show how to do a good job.
Posted on Nov 19, 2008
Your Manual nor IPL mention an oiler adjustment..
445 IPL (may not be your saw)
Is this the original bar? A longer bar requires more oil and your saw is not equipped to supply it.
Detail B (Clutch/Drum/Oiler)
We are seeing many of these does not oil/oils to much problems with these no adjustment models. I recommend you contact Husqvarna, there may be an unannounced recall/repair. If they aren't willing to help you consider contacting your Atourney General and the BBB.
Contact Husqvarna here:
It has an outboard clutch, the oil pump is behind it. If you attempt a repair this will be helpful.
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
Let us know how it worked for you.
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – for use with IPL
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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The side plate on most chainsaws will be held on by two nuts. Loosen the blade adjustment screw (a pin that is usually driven by a screw and pushes the blade out from the chainsaw to keep the chain tension tight).
The old chain is ready to be removed now that the sprocket plate is off of the saw. Pull the nose of the chainsaw's bar away from the chainsaw to release it from the tensioner.
Remove the old chainsaw chain.
The chain will easily remove from the guide bar with all that slack in it. Note the orientation of the cutting edges of the chain so you put the new one on the same way.
Pull the drive links out of the guide bar and slip the other end of the chain around the clutch drum.
Carefully thread your new or recently sharpened chainsaw chain around the chainsaw's clutch drum, making sure that the drive links engage in the sprocket.
Thread the rest of the drive links into the guide bar and around its nose, making sure all links are in the guide bar slot.
With the chain properly threaded along the clutch drum and guide bar, put some tension into it by pulling on the nose of the guide bar away from the chainsaw.
While pulling the guide bar, make sure to seat it onto the saw's adjustment pin.
Replace the side plate.
The side plate is ready to go back on as long as the guide bar is properly positioned beneath.
Replace the plate and the nuts that hold it into position, but do not tighten the nuts down all the way yet. The guide bar must be allowed to move a little while the chain is tightened to the correct tension.
Finish tightening the side plate nuts.
The chainsaw chain replacement is now complete.
Aug 28, 2011 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp
Article: Fixing a Broken Chainsaw
Having a broken chainsaw is an inconvenience. Having one that works when you need it is important! Chainsaws are useful tools for tree pruning, cutting firewood, and carpentry projects, but are not so useful if not properly maintained. It can also cost a great deal of money to get a broken chainsaw repaired. You can save a lot of time and money by repairing it yourself. For chainsaw repair you will need a blanket or large cloth, a chainsaw tightening tool, files to sharpen the blades, and any necessary replacement parts.
My Chainsaw's Engine Does Not Start
If the engine will start at all, you might have a bad starter switch. Check to see that all connections to the starter switch are secure. Is the power cord cut or broken? Check to make sure that you have a proper power line connection. If all checks out except for the switch, go ahead and replace it. You may want to consider whether you are using the appropriate fuel mixture.
My Chainsaw Smokes
If there is smoke coming from the chain, it could be an indication that there is not enough lubrication. Without the proper lubrication, the chain and chain bar can become seriously damaged. Make sure there is oil in the reservoir. When you start the saw, the automatic oil pump should lubricate the chain and bar. To see if this is a problem, hold the saw tip over a light-colored surface, hit the throttle and look for oil spatters on the chain bar. If you see no oil splatters, turn the saw off. Remove the chain guide bar and see if the oil discharge slots are clogged with sawdust. Clean out the sawdust and restart the saw to check lubrication again.
The Chain Skips or Jumps
If the chain skips or jumps during operation, check the engine drive sprocket to make sure it is not worn. If you have a worn sprocket it will not allow the chain to sit properly. Also, check to make sure the chain tension is set correctly. Setting the chain tension is a part of continuous operation. However, a dull or damaged chain may also cause the skipping and jumping.
My Chainsaw Isn't Cutting Properly
If the saw cuts at the wrong angle or shoots out a lot of sawdust, you probably need to sharpen the chain. A dull chain can be very dangerous. It can cause a kickback or chain jump that might break the chain and release pieces that could harm to the operator. If your chain is very shiny, you need to examine each cutter for damage. Use a file to sharpen the cutters.
The Chain Continues to Move or Stops
If the chain continues to move while the engine idles then you should check to make sure the idle is not set too high. If it stops while cutting, see if the brake is engaged.
My Chainsaw Loses Power
If the saw loses power while operating, check to make sure all electrical connections are secure. Any break in current may cause the saw to decrease in power, stall or shut down altogether.
When maintained, chainsaws are a great asset to any tool collection. Consult your user's manual for questions specific to certain manufacturer types.
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Oct 05, 2010 | Poulan Pro Chain Saw 46cc 20"
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