Question about LG LS180HE Split System Air Conditioner

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Compressor motors are constantly grounding each time the compressors are replaced. A new run capacitor is installed with compressor. A thorough cleanup and evacuation is performed with each compressor change. Why is this continually happening. The system is within one year old. It is a ton and a half straight cool unit.

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Dear sir

please make sure your electrical connection to the compressor is correct and tighten. electricity supply is straight and not fluctuate i mean constant supply for unit and then change new run capacitor and make sure ground wire must connect to the air conditioner,s body and check copper filter and any other copper pipe is not block .
i think it cab be an electrical problem so check all electrical device and then re-install new compressor.

thank you
hope answer the question
please vote!

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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I have a 24000btu ramsond split system. running for a yr, had to change out fan condensor and capacitor. now the problem started when we noticed the outdoor unit was shaking like a washing machine. then it...


Hi, you can get a proper reading with a ohm meter when checking a run cap. All it will tell you is that the capacitor is not open internally inside if you have the ohm setting that sounds off. Its not ground or shorted to ground, but look on your meter to see if you have the symbol for capacitance, like uf's. It will look like this -). On this compressor the capacitor will be stamped with a number like 35, 40, 45, x 370 volts, or 440 volts uf. This is the microfarads. If the capacitor is not leaking oil, or is not swollen or deformed in any way, its probably good. You can have it checked at any a/c shop for nothing to see if its putting out the right amount of microfareds, the 35, or what the compressor calls for. If its good, your compressor from what you said was like a washing machine has probably locked its rotor up, and will need to be replaced. Its really to bad that you spent the $$$$ to replace the condenser fan motor and run cap, but this happens. Depending on the age of this unit, it may be cheaper or you may be better off installing a new 2 ton unit. 24,000 is 2 tons of cooling, as 12,000 btu's equal 1 ton of cooling. A 21/2 ton would be a 030 in the model number. Yours will have a 024. You can pull out the new motor and save or sell it. This would be your call. I can tell you how to check to see if the compressor is shorted to ground. Remove and mark the wiring at the compressor terminals. Set your meter to where it will beep. Now, touch each terminal with the red lead and the other to a clean piece of copper tubing on the unit. Do each one. If any one of them beep, that winding is shorted to ground and the compressor is dead. If not, and the run cap is good, the compressor is locked up internally. I see this everyday. I wish you the best of luck, and I know its frustrating as hell, but it happens. Please don't forget to rate me on this as I know you will be kind. I have all of your information I keep on file, and will be checking in to see how it is going for you. The compressor was trying to start when you saw it acting like a washer, but has locked up and either shorted to ground. Please keep me posted also.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating,

Sep 03, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

Tip

COMPRESSOR check outs semplified.


Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} If your wondering how to check out your refrigeration compressor;
Modern Compressors have two operations that have to work together just to run. More items must be considered for them to work and work efficiently in systems. The 2 areas that must work together are electrical and mechanical. Either your compressor is broken inside or the motor and or start components are not working properly.

Electrical
Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.
1. If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad. If not go on to the next step.
2.Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals. If you get only 2 readings don’t panic wait 24 hours for the motor to cool off for sure and recheck it. If still no reading then your compressor motor is open. A new compressor or replacement of the appliance is required. If you now get the 3 readings described make a diagram you feel comfortable with as to where the wires go to each component before removing anything, then continue:
3 Assuming the above checks out: Get a new *Start relay *start capacitor if so equipped relay *external overload and *run capacitor if it has one. In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor or wiring per your diagram and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.

*May or May NOT have this component:
*Start Relay:
MOST 99.999…% of refrigerators of the household type have a start relay of some kind and they vary in size shape and color. It plugs directly onto the compressor. SOME AC units but not all have one and it is different. These Resemble a box about 2”X2” X 3” with at least 3 terminals on it and these 3 terminals are marked 1, 2, & 5. Each of these will have at least 1 wire on them and there may be other terminals (4 & 6) as well that can be used with several wires on each.
* Start Capacitor
100% of AC and Commercial compressors that use a start relay (and remember some do not have one but those that do…) and only some domestic refrigerators use a Start Capacitor. At least 2 wires going to a black (usually) cylinder which is the start capacitor. Start Capacitors ALWAYS HAVE 2 or more Wires and ALWAYS HAVE TO HAVE A START RELAY.
*External Overload
MOST 99.9% of Household refrigerators, 80%+ of smaller commercial refrigerators, and most 90% of window unit AC’s but almost no central AC compressors Have an external overload. Those that do not have an internal overload. These vary in size and color and description a basic one is round 2 wires and generally black about quarter size USA AND IF USED ALWAYS MOUNTED ON THE COMPRESSOR with the other wires and terminals there.
*Run Capacitor
Some domestic refrigerators (can be a small rectangular box) medium and larger refrigeration and (99.999%... of all) AC central and Window units have a compressor that requires a run capacitor. These type units also have a fan motor that can require a run capacitor. These Capacitors always have at least 2 wires and often 3 or more if the capacitor also is wired to the fan motor.
.
If a compressor is tight due to linear expansion from heat a tip worth remembering is as something cools it contracts, except for water at freezing. A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours may have expanded parts from heat. About 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed with a start capacitor and relay. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. A “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor, and stopping on this hard spot it can’t overcome the “tightness”.

If you follow most of these steps above you will arrive at a correct diagnosis well over 90% of the time ( allowing for what is unusual or for misunderstandings)

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed..
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

on Apr 15, 2009 | Carrier 38BRC036 Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Fride not cooling on eather side..


I believe your start relay and capacitor need replaced or the compressor is defective. Don't allow it to continue to try to start until we can find the problem. Let me know, Sea Breeze

Apr 23, 2009 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

Not getting cold at all



. To Decide if Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly.
Parameters’ are as follows and must MUST be true before continuing:
1 Condencer coil (outside coil) Clean and open for a ir flow
2 Condensor Fan motor is running and turning at enough speed and correct direction.
3 Voltage to the compressor is correct and supplied.
4 Decide if the compressor is Hot or warm or cold to the touch for future reference.
Cold or Hot
Could it be the compressor not running or that it has overloaded?
If you suspect the compressor try to follow this to decide your next step:
These little helps allow you to get the compressor running or decide that it needs replacing
1 Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.
A. If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad. No Need to go further.
B. If the compressor is hot and you read through some points on the compressor motor (pins or terminals) but not through others wait up to 24 hours for an internal over load to reset. Internal type, usually AC and larger Refrigeration Compressors. Smaller refrigerator type compressors have an external over load. After 24 hours off or yours has an external overload re-ohm and see if all have readings to each other. If these read open IE No resistance between each other the compressor is bad.
Results your looking for:
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
After 3 or 4 tries if the results don’t add up the compressor motor is bad. Replacement is required. Is this machine worth a new compressor? Is it still under warranty? Is the labor and all parts covered?
2 Assuming the above checks out:
Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and run capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration..
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

Apr 18, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

COMPRESSOR NOT RUNNING


First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:

Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

Apr 03, 2009 | GE GTH18KBR Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Whirlpool et1fttxkqoo refrigerator compressor dosnt kick in


First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:

Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

Jan 18, 2009 | Whirlpool ET1FHMXLQ / ET1FHMXLT Top...

1 Answer

Wont cool or freeze


Could it be the compressor not running?

If you suspect the compressor try to follow this to decide your next step:
Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} These little helps allow you to get the compressor running or decide that it needs replacing. To Decide if Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly.
1 Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
After 3 or 4 trys if the results dont addup the compressor motor is bad. Replacement is required. Is this machine worth a new compressor? Is it still under warranty? Is the labor and all parts covered?
2 Assuming the above checks out:
Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.


Jan 10, 2009 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

2 Year old maytag msd2650 capacitor smoked on compressor


To answer your question I have used standard capacitors (metal cased) to replace the ones used on domestic refrigerators and had no adverse effects. The only consideration is wiring length and physical size.

First Check the voltage to the compressor. Usually just 2 wires. If you do not have voltage and you are sure it should be running (it is turned on and plugged in) Check the controller (thermostat or Sensor/board assembly) because your problem is not with the compressor as of yet.
Assuming you have power to the compressor and the fan motor there is running up to speed the coils under neath are clean here are the items to look for to check out your compressor:

Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

Dec 29, 2008 | Maytag MSD 2655 HES 26 cu. ft....

1 Answer

Wiring compressor


The two terminal cap is only for the new fan motor. Connect the compressor wire back where you found it, on the 3 terminal cap. It's the terminal marked, "herm". The "common" terminal on the 3 terminal cap must still be connected to one side of the 220 power at the contactor. One side of the 220 goes to the common on the compressor. The other side of the 220 goes to the run winding on the compressor AND the common terminal on the 3 terminal capacitor.

Jul 18, 2008 | Carrier 38CKC036 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I recently had a new outdoor unit installed on my central heat and air conditioning sytem. I have had the installer out 3 times and the system still does not operate correctly. Sometimes when it cycles...


It sounds like the compressor needs starting components installed on it. All a/c units have a run capacitor for the compressor and another one for the condenser fan motor. These motors use these capacitors all the time when the motor is running. However, in some cases, this capacitor isn't enough to get the compressor spinning initially. Starting components consist of two parts, a start capacitor and a potential relay. The starting components are wired in in series with the compressor run capacitor. When the compressor turns on, the start capacitor gives the compressor an extra "kick in the pants" to get it going, then as soon as the compressor is spinning, the potential relay disconnects the start capacitor from the circuit for the duration of the run time and resets when the compressor turns off. Most likely, your indoor unit has a thermal expansion valve (commonly known in the trade as a TXV). This valve maintains a somewhat substantial differential between the high side and low side of the compressor after the system turns off which can be difficult for the compressor to overcome without help. Right now the compressor is trying to come on, can't overcome the pressure, and is tripping it's internal overload to protect itself. Eventually, as the overload repeatedly trips and resets over and over, the compressor will finally get around to a position where it will start once in a while. I am not a gambling man and I would bet you money that this will solve your problem. If you would be so kind as to rate my solution "Fix-Ya".

Jul 03, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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