Question about Samsung WE356A5W Washer/Dryer Laundry Pedestal

2 Answers

Samsung DV4006 Dryer No Heat

Having trouble pinpointing where the problem is but the drum still turns and air is exhausting there is simply no heat. I have checked the fuses on the main breaker panel and am not sure if there is one inside the dryer.

Any help would be great.

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2 Answers

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I attempted to locate an answer to resolve the issue for you, but you have not provided me with enough information to access my service database. Please observe the TIP below, and post me back and I will be happy to assist you further. Should you require more extensive consultation to help resolve your complaint(s), you may contact me through our premium chat service.

Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint.
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.


If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Posted on Jun 18, 2008

ITS PROBABLY YOUR COIL IN THE BACK TOP LEFT. HAPPENED TO ME AND I CHANGED IT.

Posted on Jul 26, 2008

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I have a candy smart CMD 146 the machine works fine when washing but when it comes to drying the drum spins but there is no heat to dry the clothes.. Any idea as to what the problem could be?


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.











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Jun 10, 2015 | Candy Washing Machines

1 Answer

Dryer is not heating and thermostat is good.would like suggestions on troubleshooting


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc

A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times.
A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit.
In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause.

The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them.
DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum.

The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best!

To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following
Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked.





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May 16, 2015 | Bosch Vision 500 Series WFVC544AUC 27"...

1 Answer

Whirlpool Duet Steam is not heating to dry any clothes


Don't have your model so I couldn't bring up the schematic some will run with an open thermal fuse I suspect thermal fuse which is non resettable I've only run across a bad thermistor once based on the age check the exhaust exiting the house and at the dryer this a safety fuse designed to open due to excessive heat if the dryer cannot breath restricted exhaust.

Jan 21, 2014 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Eurotech washer parts


please follow the next step and fix it. God bless you
Power From The House

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door Switch

If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dry to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switc

Thermal Fuse / Thermal Cut out

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replace the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring

Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
c7f12cdc-1620-4e93-9891-ce3ac930109e.gifca79fc06-1d18-4dfc-8197-564d2c8159a7.jpg

May 28, 2013 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Can 3431 be converted to a regular vented dryer?


You cannot convert this model. This unit blows hot air into drum and the water is turned to steam and exhausted out through the pump to the drain. Unlike regular dryers that blow hot air into drum, creating link and just heat that blow out vent.

Jun 22, 2010 | LG WM3431 Front Load Washer / Dryer

2 Answers

It is spinning but not getting hot


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/ http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx Both also have chat assistance 24/7. Good Luck, Hope this helps Please rate me, Thank you

Dec 05, 2009 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

Dryer wil not get hot


The problem is most likely a blown thermal fuse or a bad heating element. The thermal fuse should be attached to the duct just inside the back panel. It is about an inch long. The thermal fuse and the heating element should have continuity, therefore they are simple to test with an ohm meter or multimeter. If either component does not have continuity, then that component will need to be replaced. Hope this helped, and good luck.

Jul 19, 2009 | Maytag Performa PAV2200

1 Answer

FEX831CSO dryer stopped heating mid-cycle


Apr 22, 2010 My dryer would not dry the clothes either. the heating element would only come on once then nothing. The high limit thermostat was bad. Pull the electrical plug. Remove the top cover and the thermostat has an orange/black wire to it. It is hard to get to the screws but I was able. Then I found the element would cycle many times but not stay on long enough to dry the clothes thoroughly - I found the culprit - the motor driven fan creats a suctionin the drum and the hot air from the rear coil is pulled thru the drum, thru the front door (via the holes in the door's inner face) down thru the lint screen, thru the outer fan housing and out the exhaust. My problem was that the door's cardboard backing had seperated and along with the trapped lint clogged the door's holes and restricted the air flow. I took the door off, seperated the 2 halves, removed the cardboard and cleaned the lint out. The dryer is now working like new. Summary: The high limit thermostat was bad probably from cycling so much and the air flow diminished slowly over time to the point I did not notice until the clothes just wouldn't dry. Check the air flow first. Hope this helps
See less

Dec 29, 2008 | Frigidaire FEX831CS Top Load Stacked...

3 Answers

Twin thin dryer


I believe that it is the thermostat that is bad if it will not heat. It is the piece that supplys electrical heat to the heat coils. 696818 is the whirlpool part number for the thermostat on my stackable unit and it can be purchased online for 10-15 bucks.

Sep 21, 2008 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Hotpoint Aquarius wd640p


i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Aug 06, 2008 | Hotpoint Aquarius WD63 Front Load...

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