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Igniters continue to click after gas is turned down to 'simmer' on front left and right burners

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Hi,
The clicking that normally just goes to start your burners is not stopping. They just keep on with the tick, tick, ticking.....What can go wrong that will make them keep on doing this?

igniters continue to click after - ec17f13.jpg

There are a few possibilities for this problem. The first one is that the little switch that is behind the burner knob either went bad or got water in it. To isolate the switch that is the problem you can pull one of the wires off of behind the burner knobs one at a time till it stops. That one is the one that is bad.

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If you have just washed down the stove top then you may have water in it that is making it continue to click. Let everything dry out over night and see if that fixes it. A hair dryer can be used to speed up the process.

If you pull a wire from each switch and it still goes on, then the spark module is bad. You will need to replace it.

Be aware that it is normal for all the burners to spark whenever another one is being lit.

Excessive dirt and grease can cause the burners to light hard but will not cause the spark module to keep on sparking all the time. If a burner lights hard, check the tip of the spark electrode to make sure it is clean.

If your spark module has burnt out to rapidly, or needs to be constantly replaced, you may not have a properly wired and grounded receptacle. Reversed polarity or not being grounded can cause the spark module to fail prematurely. Make sure that you do not use a two pronged outlet or extension cord for your range.

If all else fails you can always unplug the range to get the sparking to stop. You can light the burners with a charcoal grill lighter or a match if you do it carefully. Turn the burner to full on and then slowly go towards the burner keeping the flame as low to the top as possible till the burner lights.

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

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