Where is the entrance hole the exit hole on 80gallon whirlpool hot water tank

Too close to the jet fire or fire too hot. Check pressure on line, or jet size too wide or jet is it for propane gaz or natural gaz?

1) Copy following link for troubleshoot walk-thru:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html

2) Yes. Remove the heat-trap inserts from water heater.

3) Add comment and say where you are so far.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Make sure factory-supplied insulation and cover are reinstalled over thermostats, or cooler room temperature causes thermostat to under-approximate tank temperature, and this causes overly hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Tank-with-insulation-2-600.jpg
2) Replace both thermostats.
Sticking thermostat can seem to act normally when tested, but when left alone it sticks, causing runaway overheating.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

More resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The only Whirlpool electric heater I know with control board is Energy Smart electric:
Open following link to identify product and download sample manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

First of all, the water heater is always full of water.
When you turn on hot water tap, hot leaves top of tank, and new cold water immediately enters bottom of tank through the dip tube. The tank never has air pockets as these would damage tank as explosive steam would fill that pocket ... remember they used to run locomotives with steam power.
So the tank is always full of water, and you know that since no air comes out of the hot water faucet.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

You did not say if this is new heater, or if heater was working correctly and stopped functioning.

What you describe does not sound normal.
I suggest calling Whirlpool at 1-877-817-6750.
You need to have serial number and model number from label on side of tank so product can be fully identified by Whirlpool.

If control board is bad, they will know and will sell you new board.
Installation is easy, and wires are color coded.
Replacement comes with instructions.

Add a comment with your experience so others with same-similar problem can benefit.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

The evidence points to a control malfunction.
Call Whirlpool for assistance: 1-877-817-6750
You will need your model number and serial number located on label on side of tank.
Serial number is required because models change as the technology evolves.

Open following link to read product details about the Energy Smart, and download typical manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Note: Energy Smart water heater requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker.

Typical energy smart manual shows: 1 flash is start-up error, which indicates 'Power ON with no water in tank.'
This is not possible because at least the upper element would burn out, if not both elements.
If upper element burns out, this water heater will not make any hot water, since it is wired for ordinary non-simultaneous operation.
There cannot be air inside the tank since your hot water faucet is not spewing air.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Also be aware that model numbers change.
Read following account of fellow who replaced control board on his 4-year-old energy smart, and how he discovered wires are reversed on newer control boards. Be sure to ask Whirlpool about this possibility, in the event they say control board is faulty and send you new board:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing

You have a clog in the hot water line.
If problem is at one faucet, then remove aerator and clean, then disassemble lines underneath sink.

If problem is at every faucet, then that moves search close to water heater.
Look at hot water line that exits water heater and trace that line to first Tee.
Look at cold water line that enters water heater and trace that line to Tee.
Clog is located between those 2 Tees.

Buy pressure tester that connects to hose thread.

Connect pressure gauge to hot water heater drain valve.
Then conduct same test you did at faucet.
See if pressure drops at tank.

If pressure drops, then clog is on cold side of tank, and probably hot side too.
If pressure does not drop, then clog is on hot side of tank.

Suspect 1 is any place two different metals join. For example galvanized pipe and copper.
Suspect 2 is supply pipes that exit top of tank. Take apart and look inside pipes for corrosion and sediment lining pipe walls.
Suspect 3 is elbow. Disassemble pipes and look for sediment and flakes of rust.
Suspect 4 is all suspects above, each having sediment and corrosion.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Tanks are marked with Hot and Cold.
1) If water connections are on top of tank, look for red marking or word HOT that shows where hot water pipe connects. Look for blue marking or word COLD that shows cold water connection.
2) If water connections are on side of tank, cold water connects to bottom one, and hot connects to top.

3) If hot and cold are reversed, the tank will not work.
Pipes on top of tank: cold water enters tank and is sent to bottom of tank in a long tube called the dip tube. This means the cold is on the bottom since hot water rises to the top. The hot water exits top of tank.
Pipes on side of tank: You want cold water to enter bottom, so hot water naturally rises to the top outlet.

Bypass valve incorrectly set
obstruction or dirty tank
plugged line - lime or other! does cold flow into tank ok?
Tank is split water going somewhere you can't see - this should be obvious.

There is not really anything to obstruct the flow normally so there
would have to be an obstruction somewhere. Lime, junk, garbage etc build up .
On my coach I have lots of pressure on the cold side so hot would have to have the same unless there is an obstruction into or out of the tank. If in the bypass position you have sufficient flow than the lines are ok and the problem or obstruction is in the tank itself. Drain the tank, leave the bottom plug out, open up the pressure relief valve. Turn on the water and see if you get a lot of water draining from the drain hole on the tank. There should be a lot of water coming out of the drain hole. If so that tells you that your getting sufficient flow into the hot water tank. If so your problem is the water getting out of the tank. Like a clogged return line or an obstruction from the water tank to the faucet. A dirty scale lined tank can do a number on tank water flow. Also check to see if the water is going somewhere else, your tank could be split and you just can't see where the water is going!

Your heater is on? Do you regularly drain off sediment?

Have you contunity tested your elements (power off)? Volt tested the same (power on)?

Has anyone fooled with the thermostat?

There is the possibility the dip tube (cold water going in) has broken off and instead of sending the cold water to the bottom, the cold goes straight from the cold water entrance pipe to the hot water exit pipe. Normally, one would expect cold water to sink and hot water to be on the top but, when you are drawing water off the top, with a broken dip tube, the water travels the shortest distance required, thus, your luke warm water.

I hope you can find your trouble by following one of these hints.

Thanks

a

I've worked on these before and most of the time it is the computer board which goes bad. I would check to make sure that my connections at the heater are good and that you have power up to that point. If you do then the board is bad and you will have to contact whirlpool.