Question about Rowenta Powerglide DE011 Iron with Auto Shut-off

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My iron handle where I put my hand gets real hot and there is a smell like plastic burning

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You likely have a short in the power circuit or the insulation has failed, or both. It is not safe to continue using.
Sadly, an iron will nearly always cost a great deal more to repair than to replace, but if you are lucky enough to live near an old time small appliance repair shop it is worth investigating.
Farmerbear at FixYa.com

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Bosch Sensixx B25L


see the instruction from your manual:
Check the owner's manual for your iron to learn the manufacturer's suggestions for cleaning, what water to use, and storage tips.
Soft-water systems add minerals that can harm an electric steam iron and your clothes so don't fill the iron with softened water. Instead, use filtered or distilled water.
2) if the iron does not heat a( test the power cord for open or defective b) and thermostat for adjust c) test the thermal fuse d) test the heating element for open.
God bless you
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Jul 31, 2012 | Bosch Irons

1 Answer

HI I have a Bosch Sensixx B25L iron. Steam isn't coming out of holes, seems to be escaping from edge of iron. Handle very hot (Too hot to hold on to), burns your hand when steam button is pressed


I just fixed mine - it had exactly the same problem.

First, though, check it's not within the Bosch TWO year guarantee; if it is, they'll either fix or replace it.

If it's not under guarantee then the problem is probably the rubber tubing that connects the external steam tube to the hotplate. You'll need to dismantle the iron. Mine had split right next to the spring clip that holds it on. I shortened it, clipped it back on and all is now well.

Jul 28, 2012 | Bosch sensixx TDA 8333 Iron

1 Answer

Panaonic NI-R73NR Iron suddenly stopped working. Uses a small PCB with OEG PCD-124D2M relay which produces a sound when shaken as if some metal item is moving inside. Can this PCB be entirely replaced? Is...


Okay, here's what fixed mine. But first, understand this is a $23 iron and it may not be worth your effort. I'm an engineer and like fixing things, and I hate throwing stuff into the landfill, so I took the time to repair mine. If you can use a screwdriver and are good at taking things apart (and putting them back together) this will take less than an hour. NOTE: I often make use of a digital camera while taking things apart. Take a picture of things as you go, so you can see how to put them back together later.

The problem is the switch is corroded, from oxidation or carbon buildup, or both. Getting to it is most of the trouble. Follow these instructions:
1. Unplug the iron (helpful hint for the simple-minded. Can't iron if you're dead.) Dump out any water that's in it.
2. Remove two phillips-head screws from bottom of cord winder at base of iron.
3. Pull cord winder housing away from iron to expose electrical wiring.
4. Remove the small gray insulator card from it's slot to expose the screws that attach all the wires.
5. A red, blue, and black wire go up into the handle and attach to the shut-off circuit board. Tug on them gently to slide the circuit board out of the handle, remembering which side is up.
6. There's a screw inside the handle. Look where the circuit card came out and you'll see it in there. Use a screwdriver to remove it. Now you can lift up on the back of the small curved cover where the steam and squirt buttons are, and it will come off. Don't lose the steam setting button, it may fall off.
7. Now you can see the water jet nozzle. Lift it out of the way to find a screw under there. Take that screw out. I call this screw #1 for a reason.
8. There are three screws in the back of the iron, near the wires. They hold the iron together. Left and right are like screw #1. Take them out. The other one is a machine screw that's in the center, going down into the base. Take it out.
9. You can now lift the plastic part of the iron up off the metal part and set it aside. On top of the black plastic where screw #1 went through, near the pointy end of the iron, there should be a small washer. Locate it and set it aside. You'll want to make sure it gets back where it belongs when you reassemble.
10. There is a lamp that turns on when the iron is heating. It has two fine bare wires, a copper one (on the right if the iron is lying flat and you're looking at the base), and a silver one to the left. Find the screw where the silver one attaches and loosen that screw. Gently pull that wire off the screw. Note the routing of that silver wire around the black plastic, including where the tube insulator on the wire lays-- you will need to put this back right later. Lift the lamp out and the silver wire so it's more or less sticking up in line with the screw where the copper wire attaches. This will facilitate the next step.
11. Separate the black plastic cover from the brass-colored metal iron base by lifting at the pointy end of the iron. The wires will try to hang you up in the back, but if you wiggle things just right you'll be able to get them mostly separated. The lamp will need to descend down through the black plastic where the wires go as you lift the plastic cover off. As you lift it off, look inside. You can see where the rotary switch is inside there.
12. So here's the deal: the rotary switch controls a thermostatic set of contacts. This means there's metal in there that bends as it gets hot; the hotter, the more it bends. This controls your iron's temperature. When it bends enough, it opens a set of "points", which are tiny cylindrical contacts at the bottom of the rotary switch mechanism. Put on your glasses and look under the mechanism as you rotate the rotary control and you'll see them click open and closed. You need to clean them.
13. Get a small strip of fine sandpaper (400 grit or finer), about 1/4" wide and 2" long. Turn the control until the points are open and slip the sandpaper in between them. Now turn the switch the other way to get the points to close on the sandpaper. Pull the sandpaper back and forth between the points; that'll clean the contact on the gritty side of the paper. Now open the points again, pull the sandpaper out, flip it over, put it back in, and close the points. Now another few pulls on the paper to clean the other contact.
14.Remove the sandpaper. Put the iron back together in reverse order. Some things to watch out for: When you put the black plastic part back down onto the metal iron base, you'll need to make sure the wires and the lamp go the right way. You also need to make sure that the grey rubber grommet that lets water from the plastic tank down into the heated elements is properly pushed up through the hole in the black plastic. If you have trouble seating the black plastic onto the metal iron base, it's probably because that grommet is stuck halfway through the hole. Make sure you put the steam selector button back where it goes before you put the curved cover onto the top of the plastic tank. Getting the screw up through the hollow handle and into the hole it goes into can be tricky. I held the phillips screwdriver point-up and set the screw on top. Then I held the iron point-up and slowly put the screw up through the handle and into the hole. This might take a couple of tries; be patient-- you'll get it. Be sure to put the circuit card back into the handle the right way. Finally, be VERY SURE to route the lamp wires through the plastic parts correctly, and also make sure that you have correctly routed the red, blue, and black wires from the circuit card correctly before you re-install the cord winder housing.

Good luck!

Nov 22, 2010 | Panasonic NI-R73NR Iron

2 Answers

NO STEAM COMING OUT....IRON IS HOT AND WATER IS HOT, BUT PUSH SWITCH FOR STEAM??NOTHING COMES OUT


you need to use a descaler, the holes have become clogged. you can buy this in most hardware stores

Mar 23, 2010 | Rowenta DG-980 Iron

1 Answer

Handle gets to hot


you just open it and look for whats wrong in your iron.... or the handle in it is not compatable in the iron soo put some leather on the handle...

Jul 24, 2009 | Irons

1 Answer

No steam comes out of iron


Hi, there is probably a something broken in the moulded plastic trigger assembly (there is a plastic broken finger that actuates a micro-switch under the rubber handle cover). If you are so inclined, use an orange stick and gently pry up the rubber handle cover on either side from the front to the rear cord end to access, inspect and troubleshoot. I am in SoCal and use the California Electric website to obtain parts or go to the Rowenta home website to locate useful manual information, PDF reader and dealer near you.

Jul 09, 2008 | Rowenta Steam Generator DG050 Iron

1 Answer

Burning odor


REPLACE POWER CORD ITS MOST LIKELY WORN BY THE HANDLE WHERE THE RUBBER BOOT IS

Sep 30, 2007 | Kenmore Deluxe KSR400 Iron

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