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Re: warm water only on kenmore washer
There may be a downstream screen at the back of the washer in each line.
I would check both ends of the hose to ensure they are clear.
Also, the mixing valve on most machines is a piece of **** and are prone to failure.
They are mostly not not hard to replace and you can save some bucks normally by buying it at Johnstone Supply if you have one nearby.
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Did you check to make sure the hoses are connected to the correct temperature spigot? They may have been swapped when the washer was hooked up. Really easy to fix, just unscrew the hoses that go from the faucets and switch!
Are you referring to the water valve assembly? If so, you can purchase a new assembly. Check with a parts distributor. You will need the brand and model number.
Unplug the washer. Turn off the water supply (hot and cold) to the washer and disconnect the hoses at the washer (there is no need to disconnect the hoses at the wall). Make certain that you replace the hoses correctly on the new water valve with corresponding hot and cold hoses coming from the wall. Disconnect the wire harnesses to each temperature (hot and cold) on the water valve. The harnesses should be color-coded. Replace them correctly on the new valve. Turn the water supply back on and plug in the washer. Run a small water level while testing different temperatures (hot, cold and warm). Check for water leaks and proper temperature.
Water-inlet valve Water-level switch Water-inlet valve
A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
The water temperature is incorrect
The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.
If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.
the hoses that connect the washer to the hose bibs at the wall usually have screens in them at either end. they connect on both ends the same as a garden hose. if the screen on the cold supply is somewhat clogged, this could be your problem.