Question about Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Bake and Broil not working
After you hit the function you want...bake or broil...click the up arrow. That should give you the default temp of 350 and the unit should light. Now adjust to the temp you want.
Posted on Nov 28, 2008
SOURCE: oven doesn't work, stove does
If it's a Whirlpool or Kenmore oven (or one of several other brands that are made by Whirlpool) then this error code means:
F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (ERC)
The system believes that the control board has failed and needs to be replaced.
This page has a list of diagnostic codes by brand and model number. You should check there to look up your particular brand to confirm what I just said.
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
SOURCE: Jenn-Air stove locked
After the lock indicator light goes out, move the door lock lever to the left. The oven door can now be opened. Turn the selector and temperature knobs from clean to off AFTER THE DOOR IS UNLOCKED. If the temperature knob is turned to off BEFORE the door is unlocked, the door will not open. Forcing the lock will damage the lock mechanism. If this should happen, return the temperature knob back to CLEAN, unlock the door, THEN turn the temperature knob off. Source(s): Jenn-Air Grill Range with Self Cleaning Radiant Bake and Convection Oven models S136, S156, S161
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
My Jenn Air 1995 wall oven was working fine until one day the oven and the oven gas burner did not turn ON. I had electricty (make sure you did not trip a breaker) since my front panel LCD and clock was OK. I had a good gas supply.
My oven is an "pilot-less" oven, it uses an electric igniter. Although the "ignitor" was "glowing red hot", the problem is that the gas valve depend on a certain amount of current. If you have a 120V house system, I think the valve needs 3.3 to 3.6 amps to turn on. The current flows through the igniter and then through the valve, as in a same path, like water. So you need an AMP meter to check proper current flow. I read 2.4 amps. I replaced the "glowing red hot" igniter with a new one, Vo"la it was fixed.
Bottom line if you have the oven plugged in OK and you see some life (clock), and you have the gas turned on, most likely the igniter is bad. Second choice would be the oven's thermostat (the temp knob that you turn, say to 350F), or it could be the gas valve.
All three are in same current circuit. The igniter gets the most abuse so I would start there first -good luck!
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
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