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Timer is working but wont engage agitator have purchased new timer but still same

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  • thomasroutle Oct 02, 2010

    hi kelly tested pressure switch stops at correct level does not engage agitator but timer still ticks over could pressure switch still be cause of agertator not engaging

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  • Hoover Master
  • 3,740 Answers

Agitation is started when the water level pressure switch senses that the water has reached the selected water lavel. The water level pressure switch will have a thin rubber tube attached to it. If you have an automotive vacuum line you can disconnect the existing hose with the TUB EMPTY attach the vacuum line and orally force air into the hose. It should click and start the agitation with the lid closed as you force air into the hose. If it does not click the switch is bad.

(Let me just mention that if it does NOT agitate or Spin the lid switch is the prime suspected failure).

If the clicks and still does does not agitate there can be a problem with either the motor switch / winding (reversing motor) or it can STILL be caused by a bad contact in the water level pressure switch.

If you need parts data I will need your model number to help you with that.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

  • Kelly
    Kelly Oct 02, 2010

    Hi again.

    If the pressure switch ticks over and the motor does not start there are only 2 things at this point that will stop it form agitating those are:

    1. Lid switch (but the washer would not spin also)

    2. A problem with the motor wiring / winding or motor switch





    Usually I would add the timer to the list but you have already changed that.



    The pressure switch is allowing the timer to advance and that is the same power that would start the motor.



    If you have a meter here are the tests of the motor windings:



    http://www.applianceaid.com/direct_drive...



    Use the link above as there is a figure with the motor terminals above this text:

    A) Check for continuity on the start windings between black and *yellow* wires. A resistance of 4 - 7 ohms is normal.

    B) Check for
    continuity on the high speed windings between blue and white wires. A resistance of 3/4 - 2 ohms is normal.

    C) Check for
    continuity on low speed windings between white and white/violet wires. A resistance of 1&1/2 - 3 ohms is normal.

    D) Check for
    continuity on the extra low speed windings between white and white/orange wires. A resistance of 1&1/2 - 3 ohms is normal.

    E) Check for
    continuity the motor safety protector between white and white/black wires. You should see full continuity with 0 ohms.

    F) If all these check points are OK...then you can test the motor centrifugal switch by first removing the pump and disconnecting the motor wire harness from the switch, and the switch from the motor. Remove the internal motor wires ( write down which color and what terminal they came from ) and check the switch contacts as said here....

    By pushing up on the switch actuator, you should have
    continuity between the red and black terminals, as well as the orange and blue terminals.

    By releasing the actuator, you should have continuity between the orange and the white/violet terminals. No continuity should be seen between the red and black terminals, or the orange and blue terminals.



    Kelly



  • Kelly
    Kelly Oct 02, 2010

    I have to ask.. is the motor running but the agitator not moving? Y? / N ?





    If this is the case there is an agitator drive piece under the agitator than can be bad or the agitator itself. If the motor is NOT running at all when it should be, try changing the selected wash speed several times and see if by chance it works on high but not low or vice versa.



    Speed switch position change... Motor runs Y? / N?



    I am trying here just need to make sure we are communicating well.



    Kelly




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