Question about Optoma EP716 Multimedia Projector

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Power problems Hello Marrie, Thank your for posting to my problem. I am need a little more help to make sure I am looking at the right thing. Is it kind of round, kind of flat, and dark gray with 75amp/250 volts on it? I just want to make sure I going to replace the right part. Thanks alot for helping, John Jones

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  • John Jones May 26, 2008

    Does a "lifted bracket" mean that it is socketed and all I have to do is pull it out? Thanks again for you help

  • Damon Gray
    Damon Gray May 11, 2010

    I just found this site. LOVE IT!!

    I have this same Optoma 716. Upon replacing the power cord, following bulb replacement, through the vent slots I noticed a red glow, for about 1 second which then disappeared. I would have sworn in court that it was a red LED. Not so much. Projector won't power it up, so I thought perhaps I'd observed a fuse blowing. Tore the projector apart, and saw nothing. No fuse, no burns, nothing.

    I'm wondering if someone would be so kind as to post a photo of this fuse. I'm going to rip the projector apart again later today to see if I can find it based on what I've read here.


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Hi John

That's the one ! The two ends of the fuse will sit in a "lifted bracket" touching only the two ends.

Posted on May 26, 2008

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Hello, I just wanted to drop a line to thank the AVS members who posted this thread and add my 2 cents. I too was victim to the sorry about your luck attitude of infocus when my projector suddenly stoped working. I did exactly as many of you have done and tore apart the unit (after my 3 different calls to IF). I found the 1A fuse blown after only 400 hours of total use. So no biggie. replaced it with a 1.5A fuse, and a fuse holder. Well, after about 3 hours... Dead again. So I read online that most failures are in the inverted position. (ceiling mount). I figure as many have heat must be the enemy. I removed the side infocus covers and carefully cut out the black plastic end panels. my temp gun reads 20 deg f less out put temp and the air flow is much stronger. Take 3...invite family and friends over, mid movie and zap. Nothing. So I replace the fuse with a 2.0A slow blow. This last a little longer. I get about 5 hours and zap again. So i figure i will just have to keep replacing the fuse on my 800 dollar paper weight. But the plot thickens... While upgrading my surround with a new hdmi switching receiver (onkyo 805) I discover I have a serious buzzing problem. The problem disappears when I unplug the hdmi to the projector. Having a background in pro audio I know that i have a ground loop issue. So i have 2 options. remove the sheild drain from the hdmi cable or remover the ground lug on the infocus. So I remove the ground lug terminal on the power wire of the projector and woohoo. no more buzz. And believe me I was very happy to have a low noise floor again. But I also solved the fuse popping issue as well by complete accident. As after I removed the ground lug I have never blow another fuse and now have close to 1200 hours on the projector. It also fixed some odd problems that I was having with coloration of the the lower right corner of the screen and a light flickering problem I was having. And FYI all my audio and video equipment runs through a monster power rack mount conditioner so I am fairly confident that the problems I was having weren't caused by "dirty power". during testing for the buzz I even removed the conditioner temporally to make sure it wasn't bad with no change. So I hope this helps someone out there in the same boat. Good luck! -Bill user_offline.gif

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Hello BobSmalley,
From your post, I gather that you know your way around electronics. So, why don't you use a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) to trace power starting at the PS and see where you lose it. You may find a blown fuse along the way as you didn't mention fuse status (and that projector surely has one). If you do have access to a meter you could also check the ballast to see if it's putting out enough voltage for the lamp. But since you stat that it doesn't power up at all, I would lean towards the Power Supply (PS) and locating the fuse (could be an AGC, etc... or a printed circuit fuse soldered in circuit right on the component side of the board near the edge where power comes in).
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