Question about Hayward 1 12 Hp Super Swimming Pool Pump Sp2610x15

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What and how needs to be removed from wiring end of motor shaft to replacemotor bearings

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Replacing motor bearings is not a quick repair done by most homeowners. If you feel up to the task, the basic process is as follows... First, you need to completely remove the motor from pump. This includes removing the impeller, and seal plate. Once the motor is completely removed from the pump you need to fully disassemble the motor. When disassembling, make sure you note the exact location of all components so they can be reassembled in the proper order. Pay close attention to the wiring of the windings, start switch, centrifugal switch, thermal overload switch, start and/or run capacitors, and the dual voltage change plug if there is one. Also pay careful attention to the bearing assembly where the number and types of small rings, washers, etc. varies between models. Use an external ring pliers to remove snap rings which are used to secure some bearings. Use a bearing puller to remove bearings. (Don't reuse a bearing which has been removed from the shaft). Remove miscellaneous small parts (washers, etc.) from shaft after bearings are removed. Be sure to replace in proper order. It is important to press only on the bearing inner race. The bearing will be damaged if the outer race surface is used for pressing. Place one end of the shaft on a wood block. Place the bearing and other parts as used over the other end of the shaft. Tap the bearing into place using the proper size tube and a mallet, or use a press. Repeat for the other shaft end. Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave a good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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1 Answer

How do you seperate a kohler motor from generator on a miller welder?


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How to replace bearings


Must disassemble the pump from the motor. The impeller has RH threads so hold motor armature (do not damage it) and turn impeller CCW to remove it from end of shaft. Hold armature in left hand and rotate impeller with right hand, turning hand on impeller back toward your body, or top of impeller toward you. Don't know how else to describe it. Once you have the impeller off everything should come apart pretty easily.
If impeller is really stuck, you will need to figure out how to hold it evenly all the way around without putting pressure on blades. Strap wrench, home made jig, something that can put more pressure on it than your hand.
You may want to remove the motor field so that you can grasp the armature while removing the impeller, do this by removing the long screws from the end of the motor.

Gently pry, tap, slide, however you can, get the bearings off the armature shaft without damaging any parts attached to it like fans, or starter centrifugal weights. Those things can be removed if needed.


Put new bearings on by sliding over shaft and seating in place by driving against the center race only. Do not drive bearing on by striking the outer race to move the inner race, this will damage the bearing.

Aug 14, 2012 | AO Smith SQ1152 Pool Pump Motor

1 Answer

How do you replace the bearings on the shaft


Shaft bearing replacement on any motor requires that the rotor (the part that spins) assembly be removed from the stator (the non-moving body that contains windings) and the end bells (the motor ends that the bearings are supported within).

Once the rotor assembly is removed, shaft must be pressed out of the bearings. Shops that do this work employ an arbor press as shown below for this work.

3_27_2012_5_29_03_pm.jpg

This is done best by hanging the entire rotor assembly by the inner race of the bearing. The inner race is the inner ring of the bearing that is pressed on the rotor's shaft. The outer race is the outer ring of the bearing that fits in the end bells. The ball bearings are located between the inner and outer races. If you lack an arbor press to hang the rotor from, you might cut a U shaped slot only slightly wider than the shaft in the edge of a piece of flat steel stock. You could secure the flat steel between two uprights with the rotor hanging in the U slot. Repeated blows to the top of the shaft with a softer metal than shaft - or with a block of wood between the hammer and shaft - should force the shaft downward and eventually free it from the bearing.

By supporting the rotor by the inner race, no undue stress is placed on the ball bearings - and it could be reinstalled again if needed. If you are replacing the bearing, you do not need to be as fussy with supporting by the inner race. You must support by the inner race during removal if you need to reinstall the bearing as the bearing would be damaged if not.

Installing a new bearing or reinstalling the old bearing on the shaft will require the the bearing is supported by the inner race and the rotor be pressed or driven into the inner race. If the shaft is driven or forced into the inner race and support of the bearing is not at the inner race, the balls in the bearing will be damaged and will be noisy, run hot and fail prematurely.

If the bearings are to be pressed into end bells then they should be pressed or driven by the outer race, not the inner race. We're trying to drive or force the part of the bearing that is being held - rather than trying to transfer the pressure or blows through the steel balls that are between the inner and outer races. Use of an old socket, piece of steel pipe, etc. that has the same outside diameter as the outer race often works well to evenly transfer the blows directly to the outer race. Do not try to apply the blows by alternating the energy of the plows all around the race - keep the energy of the blows centered evenly. Use a block of wood to help absorb some of the energy to prevent damage to the bearing or causing pieces of steel from breaking off the pipe, hammer or socket. Always wear safety glasses and gloves!

Mar 13, 2012 | MotorGuide STANDARD MOTOR REPLACEMENT...

1 Answer

The bearings are starting to get noisey and i suspect need replacing. are the bearings in the motor itself or in the pump portion. how do you dis asseble the motor from the pump and then change the...


The bearings are in the motor itself. You can separate the motor from the wet end by removing the wet end. You can then remove the cap or cover on the back of the motor to expose the shaft. It may be a hex tool, a slotted tool, or 7/16 wrench that you'll need to hold the shaft while you spin off the impeller (you may need an impeller tool as well).

Once the impeller is off, you can remove the seal plate and the motor will be isolated. You can then remove the through bolts and proceed to replacing the bearings. You will most likely need to replace the shaft seal as well.

There are many tricks associated with doing this invasive of repair. I cannot cover every scenario you might encounter. Personally, when the bearings go bad, I usually replace the motor as it's usually a number of years old and all of the components will start to go bad including the windings. These motors run at high temperature and unless you've encountered a bad shaft seal that allowed water into the bearings, it may be worth replacing the entire motor. Just my thoughts. Hope it helps a little.

Jul 31, 2011 | Pentair 15 Hp Superflo Swimming Pool Pump

1 Answer

Not sure which pedestal fan it is. Speed is a dial, not three distinct speeds. Just found and cleaned it, but now it will not start up unless I spin the blades by hand 6-10 times to get it going. Seems...


Here is a write up I did for Humidifier fan motors---
the same principle applies to pedestal fans, too-- You are right-- the bearings get dried out-- and the shaft 'STICKS!!
Let me know what you tihink of this write up-- try it and let me now what I left out-

Mack B

Have you considered checking to see if the fan motor might just need cleaning and lubricating?
Most small fans and heaters, have small fan motors, in which the bearings have dried out over the years. If you have made an electrical check on the motor leads-- and you have electric going into the windings, likely the motor feels warm? (If not-- possibly a bad splice where the supply wire attaches to the tiny armature wires?-- check , and check continuity)

If you want to tear into the fan motor, and clean up and lubricate the bearings-- here are some tips:

First you need to get inside the heater of the fan housing-- by removing the protective covers.
Note the screws, sizes, locations, and how the protective covers will go back on when you are ready to reassembly-- Mark where the screw holes are that line up with the matching other parts.

Then remove the motor from it's bracket (Possibly have to remove the fan first?)
You will have to remove the fan, to lubricate both front and real bearings.
Next you will need to remove the 4 long screws that hold the motor frame together-- Be sure to mark the original alignment, so you can reassembly correctly.

Now, with the fan removed, gently separate the Front and rear half's of the motor. Usually the windings will stay with the portion of the motor where the wires are still attached. Either way, you are going to have to get the bearings to slide off both Shafts of the armature-- without breaking the delicate winding wires-- the wires are hair thin on small motors!

Now clean up the caked on residue on the shaft where the bearings ride, with rubbing alcohol. Clean up the internals of the bearings as best you can- making sure the pores of the oil-lite bearings are not plugged with solids. Now begin the gentle process of getting the bearing wicking to soak up new oil. When you are sure the reservoirs are well saturated, then generously lubricate the shafts, and slip them thru the bearings again-- retracing all your steps above, The motor shaft should turn freely now. You can test the motor without the fan on-- to be sure you have the motor itself reassembled properly.

Double check all the splices, switches, and any high temperature limit switches for continuity-- and trace the wiring all the way back out thru the power supply cord.

What did you find, and what do you need to do next?

Jan 27, 2011 | Vornado 280CS Stand (Pedestal) Fan

1 Answer

Fan does not blow. Believe we need a new fan motor.


Have you considered checking to see if the fan motor might just need cleaning and lubricating?
Most small fans and heaters, have small fan motors, in which the bearings have dried out over the years. If you have made an electrical check on the motor leads-- and you have electric going into the windings, likely the motor feels warm? (If not-- possibly a bad splice where the supply wire attaches to the tiny armature wires?-- check , and check continuity)

If you want to tear into the fan motor, and clean up and lubricate the bearings-- here are some tips:

First you need to get inside the heater of the fan housing-- by removing the protective covers.
Note the screws, sizes, locations, and how the protective covers will go back on when you are ready to reassembly-- Mark where the screw holes are that line up with the matching other parts.

Then remove the motor from it's bracket (Possibly have to remove the fan first?)
You will have to remove the fan, to lubricate both front and real bearings.
Next you will need to remove the 4 long screws that hold the motor frame together-- Be sure to mark the original alignment, so you can reassembly correctly.

Now, with the fan removed, gently separate the Front and rear half's of the motor. Usually the windings will stay with the portion of the motor wher the wires are still attached. Either way, you are going to have to get the bearings to slide off both Shafts of the armature-- without breaking the delicate winding wires-- the wires are hair thin on small motors!

Now clean up the caked on residue on the shaft where the bearings ride, with rubbing alcohol. Clean up the internals of the bearings as best you can- making sure the pores of the oil-lite bearings are not plugged with solids. Now begin the gentle process of getting the bearing wicking to soak up new oil. When you are sure the reservoirs are well saturated, then generously lubricate the shafts, and slip them thru the bearings again-- retracing all your steps above, The motor shaft should turn freely now. You can test the motor without the fan on-- to be sure you have the motor itself reassembled properly.

Double check all the splices, switches, and any high temperature limit switches for continuity-- and trace the wiring all the way back out thru the power supply cord.

What did you find, and what do you need to do next?

Let us know--

Mack B

Jan 23, 2011 | Lakewood 798240 Utility Heater

1 Answer

Motor very hard to turn. Bearing at end with power cord turns freely. Bearing against the pump hardly turns. How do you remove the pump and get to the bearing to replace? Should the pump be replaces as...


Vern,

to answer the question "should the pump be replaced as well?)
there are a few things that can answer that question for us. What is the condition of the existing pump? How old is it? Can the impeller even be removed from the shaft without breaking it?

Basically to change the motor bearings you must remove the 10-16 screws on the wet end.
Remove the cap you just unscrewed.
remove the small 1" round shaft cap at the rear of the MOTOR. (on the electrical end) this should come out with just a flathead screwdriver. (if it bends a little its no big deal.)
Lock onto the shaft end we just uncovered with a LARGE flathead screwdriver.
While locked onto the shaft, turn the impeller counterclockwise until removed.
Note: some impellers have a set screw in the center of the impeller.If you have one, it is reverse thread and must be removed by turning clockwise.)

If you are unable to get the impeller off of the shaft, you might as well buy a whole new pump. These pumps are a few hundred dollars, but if you have to purchase a new motor, a new impeller, and a new shaft seal at the very least, then the cost is right up there with a new pump.

If you can remove the impeller, keep reading.
Next remove the (4) - 1/4" hex through bolts located on the motor at the electrical end.
With the impeller removed and the through bolts removed, the wet end should now seperate from the motor.
To remove the bearings, we must seperate the front faceplate from the motor housing by taking a large flathead screwdriver to the small flat notch in between the plate and the motor housing. Pry in small even incriments all the way around the plate to remove this safely.

Once this is done, the bearing can be removed. For this we need a good quality bearing puller (these can be expensive and if you dont own one this is another reason to buy a new pump.)
Lock the 2 arms of the bearing puller around the outside of the bearing, and lock the center pin on the shaft and turn clockwise to remove.

When installing the new bearing, use a piece of 3/4" metal electrical conduit about 6-8 inches inlegth.
Place the bearing on the shaft and fit the electrical conduit on top of it, making sure to only apply pressure to the RACE of the bearing (the inside track) tap lightly until the new bearing is in place.

Once this is done, reverse these instructions to reassemble.

Dec 05, 2010 | Waterway Executive 56 Spa Pump 3hp 2" 2spd...

1 Answer

Need to change out bearings


You will need a 7/16 inch open ended wrench, a bearing puller, a phillips screwriver, a 12" peice of metal electrical conduit, and the bearings.
dismantle wet end of pump down to the impeller. Remove the shaft cap at the back of the motor(small circular cap in back). use 7/16" wrench to hold the shaft under the cap whiile spinning the impeller counter clockwise untill impeller is off. using a 1/4" hex driver remove the 4 through bolt located at the rear of the motor. seperate end caps on motor housing to access the bearings. use puller to remove. use the 3/4" conduit to tap new bearing into place. Reassemble unit.

Make sure you have an o-ring kit for this pump first

Aug 30, 2010 | Waterway 5HP Executive 56 Frame Spa Pump...

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I have an Oreck air purifier model (air 4000). The power light is on but the fan will not turn unless I put it on high speed and manually push the fan to give it a jump start for it to start running but...


I tried that solution and it did not work due to the worn bushing. I went on line to CSH incorporated and ordered #534 Open Ventilation Fan & Blower Duty motor. The motor is a ball bearing motor rather than bushing, and is an exact replacement for the Fasco motor on the original. The repair is easy and a cheap repair at cost of about $67 dollars for the motor plus shipping. The unit now works great again.
Robert

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1 Answer

How to replace main shaft bearing


Almost all of the Skil table saws are the same setup when it comes to the motor and drive assembly. Remove your blade before servicing. You will need an arbor press, bearing seperator/puller and drill/driver bits (torx or philip depending on model) plus some adjustable ring pliers to accomplish this repair.

First thing you have to do is remove the motor from the saw. Place the saw on its wide side and adjust the motor with the height adjustment wheel so as to access the hex screws holding the motor to the rack.

Next, before removing the motor you need to remove the motor cord from the switch. Flip the table saw upside down flat on its table. Remove the switch cover and disconnect the black and white wire from the switch marking their position or noting the other wires from the cords position and the relation to the motor wires. Now you can undo the hex screws to release the motor.

Once your motor is released you can remove the spindle shaft by removing the 3 screws from the bearing housing. You can pry the assembly off with a couple of screwdrivers or by using a soft hammer and tapping the edges to remove.

Once removed you will have to remove the gear before you can get to the bearing. Use a bearing seperator/puller to pull the gear off the shaft. Once the gear is off you need to remove the woodruff key before removing the bearing. After the woodruff key is out you can remove the c-clip that holds the bearing to the shaft. Now you can use an arbor press to press the shaft out of the bearing.

Replace your bearing and put it back together. Any questions please post back.

Oct 12, 2009 | Skil Saws

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