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The motor on my jointer was running fine then all of a sudden the RPM dropped drastically and had no power what-so-ever.

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I'm going to guess that this unit runs on 240V. I would first suspect that you lost one leg and only have 110V going to this unit.

Check that and update this with the model if not the case.

Thanks,
Dan

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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1 Answer

Jointer doesn't run smoothly


My bet is that the motor is designed for 220/240 (single or three phase), but you're running in on 110 single phase. If the belt were slipping it would sound like the belt on a car (you know when someone starts their car and belt is loose and goes "Sccrreeeeeee" until the rev the engine and make the belt catch up to the pully).

The power in wood working motors is such that it should be very difficult to slow down the motor if you're feeding at a slow rate. But, if the motor needs 220 and you're powering with 110, then the motor will have no power (the magnets in the motor are matched with the voltage - and if you have the wrong voltage you won't get any power and the speed will be very slow).

Typically the "home" or "residential" tools only run on 110, but if you have a larger unit they can be wired for 220 or 110. If you bought the planer used, they may have been running with 220 and now you're powering with 110 (or vice versa). I'd do a quick google search for your unit to see what it's capable of. Or, just take the model number of the motor (not the planer) and search for that.

Typically, motors can be run at 110 or 220 for larger wood working tools. Inside the metal housing where the wire feeds into are a number of wires to connect to. These wires have numbers on them (either a tag or printed on the wire insulation) and you attach them a certain way for 110 and a different way for 220. Sometimes you can even change the direction of the motor - SO BE CAREFULL IF YOU REWIRE IT! don't power it up all the way on the first try. Just start it and then stop it while the motor is still coming up to speed. While the planer is still spinning (even though the motor is off) feed your board in slowly and you'll be able to tell which way the motor is spinning. If you get the wrong direction on your motor you can shoot boards across the shop (or out into the street if you're in the garage - like I did).

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How to Replace Drive Belt


Unplug the jointer. Invert it on a thick cloth to protect the blades and the work surface. Underneath you will see a base plate that covers the bottom and is held in place by seven screws. Remove all of the seven screws and set them aside with the baseplate. With the baseplate removed, you will see the power leads running to the main switch and back to the motor. Remove the hex bolts that hold the motor in place. There are two on one side of the motor (indicated by purple rectangles in the picture), and another one on the other side. Remove them completely to allow the motor sufficient room to move in order to place the drive belt over the motor spindle. If your hex key is not long enough for this job, hold the key in a pair of pliers or vice grip to remove them. (Now that the jointer is disassembled, this is a good time to clean all the motor housing thoroughly and lubricate, if applicable.) Lift and rotate the motor and attach the drive belt. The motor will not easily return to its normal position. In the picture you can see just how far the motor has been turned to get the drive belt on. Insert the hex bolts again, deep inside a very narrow space, whilst using a fair bit of force to hold the motor in place. This is the difficult part, and you may utter a few choice words at this point and consider some unauthorized modifications to the housing. With patience and persistence you should be able to secure the hex bolts once more and once again have an operational planer/jointer.

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