Power Cord My power cord is broken and I am going fix it. how do I remove the heal rest

We have a Euro Pro GI472, which kept going off and on, and the problem seemed to be an intermittent connection in the power circuit. If we "fiddled" with the cord, the power light would go off and on. To get the back off, I removed the two screws below the rubber feet, near the identification tag. Then I had to pop the red plastic light lens off the top of the iron. The lens is held by two plastic "claws" one at the top and at the bottom of the lens. Once the lens is out, there is a small Phillips-head screw visible between two light sources. I removed the screw, and that freed the cover, and made it possible to access the wiring. Testing continuity from the wall plug to the two wires inside the iron, and flexing the cord, quickly led to a spot in the cord that was slightly kinked, and that was the location of the fault. Both wires under the insulation were broken. In fact there were small balls of melted copper near the breaks. Then it is a matter of making sure you know which wire of the power cord goes to which spot in the iron (a photo or a sketch will save mistakes when reassembling) cutting out the faulty wire, getting a suitable crimp connector and a wire nut and rewiring the iron.

0) Unplug the iron.

1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.

2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".

3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!

4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.

5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.

6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).

7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...

8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.

9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.

10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).

11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.

12) Plug in the iron and test it out!

More than likely your power cord has a broken wire. Plug the iron in and mover the cord around. See if you can find the broken wire. Typically where the cord comes out of the iron and right at the plug. Or replace the whole cord. Your local hardware store, youtube, or menards can show you how. Very easy to do. I tend to stay away from home depot.

just replaced the power cord, you can buy wire and plug then assembled it to the iron and replaced the old power cord which may cause of shut off.

Hi,

If you've had this iron for a while it sounds like the cord may be frayed.
switch it off at the wall and unplug it, check the cord for wear, if the insulation is frayed, torn or broken and there are black burn marks on the cord where you saw sparks then the cord needs to be replaced.
DONT plug the iron back in until the cord is replaced.

Otherwise If there are no breaks or black burn marks on the cord, then your power point may be faulty and needs to be replaced!

I hope this was helpful
MobileJB

Bring the iron to a Hardware store, ask for a set of tools right for the type of screws (maybe Torx, Security Torx, tri-wing, bristol and others).

Once you can open the iron and access to the cord you may change the power cord. it is easy.

Power goes on & off because the power cord is broken. This failure is very common on irons.

Good luck

Hi!!
It should be an access plate fasten by a couple of screws right below the power cord, remove them and fix the cord's terminals/contacts or the cord itself.
Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

if the cord is broken get anew one,

1. cut of the part that is broken
   
2. attache the wires in this order
   

• red to red or brown {live}
  
• black to blue{nuetral}
  
• and green to green or yellow or yellow/green [earth]
  

Hi.


Either the wiring to AC power line is broken or the heating element is broken.


The heating element is tested taking apart the iron, disconnecting element contact, and reading impedance on element contact with a multimeter set at Rx1. If the element has no continuity (circuit open), then the element must be replaced.

If the power cord is fused (like for example in UK), check also the fuse in the power cord, try replacing it.


Regards.

Most high end appliances (like Rowenta Irons) are made so repairs like that can be done. I haven't played with that model, but I did replace a cord on my Norelco. The torx screwdrivers you are looking for can be purchased, and are often found at either specialty electronic stores (not the average Radio Shack), automotive stores and quite readily online. They are also known as Torx Security bits or Torx Safety bits. Most appliances are made with those screws to prevent the average person from having a go at trying to fix it, but, if you feel comfortable enough with the electronics (even just to look for a loose connection), the bits are available and usually at a fairly decent price.