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Re: Goodman split type system, model MSG12CRN1W Want
Hi, this is very easy to find out. The out door unit has 2- copper lines coming out of it. A small one on the unit, 3/8" and a large one either a 3/4" or 7/8" depending on the size.2- rolls of copper called the line set are silver brazed into the fittings coming out of the outdoor unit of the same size and uncoiled and ran to the indoor evaporator coil. Again, one is brazed into the smaller open fitting, 3/8" and the other into the larger of the two. There is only one way to install these as the open fittings are made for you to put your lines into at the factory and silver braze them. They could have cut a line and did there own design, but that would be wrong. What kind of problems are you having? I have seen installers add to many joints to connect to and they would be in the way of the panels going on right, but its pretty much cut and dry, a larger suction line at each end, and a smaller liquid/discharge line on both ends. Please let me know the problem? Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, & Heating Contractor
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What is current refrigerant being used in the system being replaced? What are the sizes of the existing breakers for the Air Handler, and the outside unit? Do you plan on replacing cooper lines ? Use drain line already there?
Normally if it does not sound right, it is not right. By your discription it sounds like your compressor is having a problem with flood back caused by a txv not metering properly, or an overcharged system. You will need a tech who can determine superheat and subcool for your refrigerant system. Find a tech who can determine these values. Superheat and subcool is normally around 8 -12 degrees. Superheat is the amount of additional heat the refrigerant picks up in the evaporator once it is turned to gas and is needed to keep liquid refrigerant from flooding back to the compressor. Compressor are designed to compress gas not liquid. Subcool is the additional cooling refrigerant undergoes once the refrigerant turns back into into liquid in the conderser. Subcool ensures the refrigerant remains in liquid form until it reaches the metering device. Only liquid suppied metering devices will pass the required amount of refrigerant to achieve the rated cooing or heating rates. If it is liquid flood back, your compressor will be damaged and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps
Check the unit from the outside. This happened to me: 1.) The unit was not raised off the ground 2.) Rodents had chewed on it. Or it could be: 3.) Replace batteries 4.) The unit will not work off season when it gets too cold to use the cool air option.
Hi, I wanted to look up the numbers you gave me as you listed 2 different model numbers, the CPLE-18-1 is a 1&1/2 remote condenser and the other you showed CPLE-24-1 is a 2 ton unit. Doesn't matter, but if your power was lost you have your main breaker box at your meter, and at the condenser you will have a disconnect box with a pull out type plug. If you see no fuses, try removing the plastic cover as they are required to install 2-fuses in side the box also. If this is a split system with the outdoor and indoor unit, you will also have a breaker inside for the indoor unit, its high voltage and you will have a circuit board in the indoor unit with a 3 to 5 amp auto type plug in fuse. I hope this has helped you out on this. I will be here if you have more questions. Please do not forget to rate me as I know you will be kind. Keep me posted. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contracted
You shouldn't have to add oil. The little bit that leaks out with refrigerant isn't significant. I would be more concerned about the leak itself. Has it been located and fixed. If not it will no doubt leak out again. Also do you know how much refrigerant to put in the system? Have you vacuumed the air/moisture from the system etc. Is the system totally flat or is there still some refrigerant in it? Let me know so I can advise you correctly.
is the system zoned? if so maybe the zoning control board to the damper motor is wired improperly. when a system freezez its because of 1- restricted air flow across coil, (maybe dirty filter) or 2-low refrigerant charge. again could depend on how its zoned.
If this is a split system, look on the side of the furnace, no luck? remove the front panel. look for a little plate or sticker label inside there somewhere. If you are in California, there is a Goodman (A.K.A.) Janitrol, in Ontario CA. They may be able to help. (sorry don't remember phone #)