Hi. My unit was working fine. Then my wife started using it. She was going back and forth using the PowerDrive feature. Now, the entire handle slips off, and the unit is not working correctly at all. Any ideas
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Re: handle unit came off
Http://geeksquad.fixya.com/ThreadView.aspx?prdid=49977&thid=623558 Handle unit came off Posted by Mcnarymoss on May 26, 2008 Hi. My unit was working fine. Then my wife started using it. She was going back and forth using the Power Drive feature. Now, the entire handle slips off, and the unit is not working correctly at all. Any ideas Hello, I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR VACUUM before beginning any service procedure. The Bissell 1698 Power Steamer ProHeat Upright has a – let’s call it a power drive rod that has come apart and is no longer working and needs to be re-connected. The best results of the power steamer is that the power steamer works better on the pull back, which means that you dispense the water, the brushes scrub the carpet and the vacuum picks up the water and it goes into the recovery tank – if you go forward use the trigger assm to dispense the water so I t get a chance to soak in but the best results are on the pull back. So if you need further assistance, please feel free to contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions. http://www.bissell.com/Customer Service1-800-237-7691 Hours of Operation Monday thru Friday 8:00 am to 10:00 pm EST Saturday 9:00 am to 8:00 pm EST Mail To: Headquarters, Bissell Homecare Inc P.O. Box 3606Grand Rapids. MI49501 http://www.a-1vacuum.com/1-800-657-1874Customer Service Thanks, Don the Vac Man
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The U6311-903 is a self propelled vacuum. The the small red button will stop the handle from moving back and forth, which makes the machine go foward and backwards. The red button disengages the self propelled feature.
The cable is user replaceable, but you will need to contact Hoover, or a parts center, to purchase the cable. You will remove the Upper Handle by removing the black screws at the base of the upper handle fit to lower handle (on back).
You will also have to remove the hood to loosen the one screw that holds the cable to the powerdrive gearbox.
If you can remove the hose great. I have had luck slinging it in a circle out in my yard and letting the centrifugal "force" do the work(I had a fence). Coat hangers will work. You may need to twist two together for strength and/or length. Bend the cleaning end at the tip 1/4" to the right to grip the grunge and double up your grip end and wrap with some duct tape for a handle. An easier method my be inserting a garden hose, sealing with tape and cranking the water on slowly, careful for the projectile!
There is a relay back on the master unit. When the hose is plugged into the inlet the metal on the coupling completes the electrical circuit to the relay. In your case the coupling has a split and the circuit continues to the switch in the handle. As long as there isn't any conductive surface left across any of the contacts in any of the inlets, the relay is hung up. I never heard of that happening until today when I responded to the exact same problem on a different machine. The relay needs to be replaced.
The "screeching" on the other hand should have nothing to do with the relay. That sounds like a motor bearing without proper lubication and/or going bad.
Worked on one with your same problem of poor suction and won't stand up. On the left side of the handle, near the bottom, the port cover isn't on correctly. Take it off, put the handle in the upright position then reinstall the cover.
I didn't find this as difficlut as red devil 6, however, having 2 people helps. Remove the brush assembly using the 2 brush release buttons. Remove the front nozzel by sliding the 2 nozzel release clips away from the unit. Do NOT remove any screws from the underside of the floor mate base.
Before you begin....on the new wheel assembly, locate the "spring loaded lever" that is attached by the 2 brass screws. Notice that it can be pushed to the side and it locks in place. If pushed again it releases. This is important when you go to make sure the wet/dry pick up indicator is working near the last step of the process.
The top grey cover on the base of the unit lifts off accessing the hubs that hold the handle to the base.
To remove the top grey cover, there are 6 clips that you have to move to one side or the other with a narrow flat blade screw driver. All 6 of these clips are accessed from the underside of the base unit. Work gently...red devil 6 was correct, you can break things easily.
GENTLY pry up the top grey cover exposing the 2 black hubs holding the handle to the base. Remove the 4 screws holding the hubs to the base. I found it easier to have the handle in the down position to remove the cover. I found it easier to have the handle up for 2 screws and down for the other 2 screws.
This is where 2 people come in handy. One person (me) holds the handle and base apart while the other person (my wife) installs the wheel assemlby. It is a little tricky to get in place. My wife found it easiest to install the nubs first (yes nubs, like a little axel that holds the wheel assembly to the base) at the back of the wheel assembly, then slip the pin at the front of the wheel assembly into its position (where the old one came from).
Reset handle and hubs into the base and tighten 4 screws.
Before you go any further, make sure your dry/wet pickup indicator works.....The INDICATOR is the thing that has two red spots on it and tells you if you are on wet or dry pickup. GENTLY TRY to work the wet dry pedal with you HAND to see if the indicator swithces between wet and dry easily. If you are not GENTAl and you force it, you WILL BREAK it. If it does EAISLY go back and forth between wet and dry you have to reset the indicator. Push the indicator stem (the stem that sticks down into the base) up through the base and push the spring loaded lever (see before you begin above) assembly on the wheel assembly to the side. Reinstall the indicator stem and make sure the little spring end is positioned over top of the plastic stub. Recheck GENTLY the function of the wet/dry pickup foot pedal, but use your HAND.
Finally, reinstall top grey cover. It's a little tricky but we found it helpful to have the handle in the down position. Make sure it snaps back into place.
You did it!.
This took my wife and I about 45 minutes to 1 hour....but at least half of the time was spent going slow to ensure I didn't break anything else.
There is a cable that connects to the handle and goes down to the powerdrive transmission. It is visible at the actuator arm on the drive if you look at the bottom of the handle where it pivots on the main housing. It will be on the right hand side, front corner of the handle bottom. You should be able to see the cable connected to the arm of the drive and will move back and forth with the top handle. Sometimes, they break at this connection. The cable may be frayed and broken, or the acuator arm may be broken where the cable connects.
This could also be a simple worn belt problem. The roller is always rotating in a direction that pulls the machine forward and if the belt is worn, the roller will turn sluggishly but still enough to pull forward, but the belt also drives the transmission and a worn belt will not have the capacity to overcome the forces involved to propel the machine backwards. Always change the belt(s) yearly.(on average)
Does the brush roll turn when it it is on the carpet? The flat belts should be changed often, they stretch and won't turn the brush roll. When you pull back on the handle, does it feel loose or does it feel like you are pulling a cable. It you tilt the handle back, then look down on the right, there is a cable, does it look ok and attached to a nlack plastic part, if not then the actuator is broken. Do the 2 knobs on the nozzle slide back and forth, if not, then the slide may be broken. You may have to take off the top cover and inspect it.