Question about Hotpoint Aquarius WMA42 Front Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It should go around 2 wheels; one is the pulley of the motor, where there is a good groove. The other goes around the tub wheel which is big one. First fit to the motor wheel then fit to one side of this big wheel & turn the wheel to engage it gently. The belt should have a "give" of only half an inch, or it will be too loose or too tight.
If helped pl rate.........
Posted on Dec 28, 2007
SOURCE: Belt too tight to fit
the belt has to be tight so that the machine an work you have to get it over the pulley and it will work use a screw driver if you need to as a kind of prybar for it
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
SOURCE: cant get my belt bak
They have to be stretched tight, so it will appear a little small. Put the belt over the motor spindle first, now guide it onto the large drive wheel of the drum, hold the belt in the correct place on the large wheel as you slowly spin it to draw it onto the wheel and it will fit. Easy.
Now then, the nasty nasty bit and I hope I'm completely wrong here!
I have once and only once ever come across a washing machine that needed a belt replaced because the belt was faulty. 99 times in a hundred, if the belt has "fallen off" and "keeps falling off" it's because of another problem. They can't simply fall off because they have nowhere to go except on the track they are set on. If your belt has fallen off, I would put good money on there being an underlying problem with the main bearings in the drum failing, allowing the inner drum to "flop about". and allowing sufficient latteral movement in the the large drive wheel for the wheel to wobble and allow the belt to slip off.
To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.
The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.
If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:
A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)
You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.
The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.
A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.
This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.
To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.
Feel free to drop a comment back on this thread if I can provide more help.
Posted on Jul 21, 2011
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