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Older Bose Lifestyle systems are prone to electrolytic capacitor failures. Replace all electrolytic capacitors on the main control board with identical uF value, equal or greater voltage rating, equal or greater temp rating. There are about a dozen on the board with at 2-3 different values. Disassembly and reassembly is straight forward. Those with capable skills in mechanical and electrical areas should find the project will take about 1-2 hours. I recommend grounding the board when working on it. Find a spot on the board where the ground is marked, and attach a jumper to a ground point. Take caution during the disassembly -- take photos, lots of plastic parts, etc. The eCaps are polarized, so be sure to check polarity as you unsolder, and install new eCaps with same polarity (+ & - ) as the old.
Once caps are replaced the voltage levels to correctly operate the display will be back to factory settings, and the display should show brightly. Good Luck!
First of all thank you for posting your question here at Fixya.com.
If you're TV is already 6 years old and starting to experienced fault, then much better to have a new unit than to send it in because of considering the cost of service fee plus parts and the possibility that the new fault will be encountered after the repair because of aging.
However if you have an experienced in electronics, soldering and desoldering, I would advice you to repair it yourself to saved a high cost of service fee.
I saw this kind of symptoms and the fault came from either the T-con board or the power supply board but high chance that the fault came from the power supply board. It is not needed to replaced the entire power supply board because the suspected parts is the electrolytic capacitor. This is not technical to troubleshoot because most of the faulty Ecap has a physical indication of fault like bulged/dome at the top and can be easily identify through visual inspection. See sample picture below of fuaulty Ecap with dome at the top.
Open the back cover of your unit and check the power supply board(this is where the power cord's directly connected). If you found them on the board, replaced it with same capacitance and working voltage that is printed on its body itself. Watch the video below for more info on Ecap.
I would advice you to work first on the power supply board. If you can't find any Ecap with obvious bulged/dome at the top, then I would advice you to replaced all Ecap on the output of the power supply board. It will not cost you much because this is one of the cheapest part on the board, cost only 1 dollar or less depend upon the capacitance and widely available at electronics store and online.
If you've already replaced all Ecap but the symptoms remain or not perfect (some bars appear momentarily but goes away), I would advice you to replaced also the LCD controller board(T-con board). Click it here for the replacement.
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
Hope I helped you. Have a nice day! Good luck and take care! Rating and feedback are highly appreciated.
Try to go to device manager and under hardware you will see if the camera is installed or not.Try to enable the device or else the simplest solution is to remove the device from control panel>uninstall a software. Then once removed, restart system and re-install a fresh driver software for this camera..This should solve your problem..