Question about Pride Go-Go Ultra X 3-Wheel Travel Scooter

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While driving scooter rear will sometimes shutter for short period of time and remain moving. Sometimes it will stop on its own. Beep code of nine (9). I find if I lift battery pack and put back in place it will resume. This condition is becoming more and more frequent.

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Yep There are 3 possible problems 1. Make sure that the key is out of the lock before reinstalling the battery pack. 2. The controller is overheating. Let it rest 10-15 minutes to cool down if it happens again and 3. I think you are having a brake problem where the brake is not fully disengaging from the motor and causing excess drag on the motor.
You can remove the brake from the rear of the motor being careful not to break or pull the wires going to the brake. Tie the brake up away from the motor keeping the wires intact. Try driving the scooter and see if it still shutters. If it doesn't then you can use it like that but you will have no brake and if you use ramps it is dangerous. You can carefully remove the brake pad and give it a good cleaning along with the face of the motor where the brake pad rubs. Then reinstall all the parts and try your scooter again. The shuttering should stop and to excess overload of the motor should stop too. You could replace the brake by contacting Pride Mobility @1-800-800-8586 and talk with tech support to find out if you can just replace the brake assembly. Hope this helps you

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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How to stop a continuing beep on my Cordoba scooter when I turn the key on? The scooter don't move at all.


Hi Mag,
I have this steps that might help you with beeping sound on your Scooter. Hope it helps.

UNIT LIGHTS UP/HORN WORKS BUT UNIT WILL NOT MOVE
Possible Cause:
  • This often occurs when the scooter is in free wheel mode and is not in drive mode. Re-Engage the free wheel lever which is located down near the rear wheels (normally a yellow or red lever).
  • If you hear a beeping noise, the beeping you hear is a fault beep indicating the scooter main control box has detected a problem. Contact your dealer who can diagnose the beep code.
  • Check batteries with load tester - If either battery drops more than 1 volt under a load, the battery(s) are bad. Replace "both" batteries.

I also find these additional steps on how to know beep alarm indicators:

This main control box has a self-diagnostics feature & cannot be tested with a volt meter. When a
problem is present the main control box will diagnose the fault, prohibit the scooter from being driven
and sound an alert beep. Each alert beep indicates a different issue which helps to determining the
problem by narrowing the fault into one of a few main areas of the scooter. Reference this information
below for the alert beep indications.

Very Rapid beep- Batteries are low. Charge & test batteries.
Medium Fast beep- Motor/brake wiring fault. Free wheel lever disengaged.
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Very Slow beep- The throttle pot was not at center when you turned the unit on. Throttle pot off
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The beep code will begin with 10 very fast beeps, followed by 5 slower beeps. The 5 slower beeps is your actual code. The beep code 5 is a brake fault.
The scooter may be in freewheel mode or there may be a short in the brake.
Make sure the scooter is in drive mode with the rear brake lever in the correct position. If that does not clear the fault you need to check the electromagnetic brake.
To check the brake you need a digital voltmeter. The brake should read 30 to 65 ohms when you read across the pins. You need to measure the resistance at each successive point on the harness because there are 5 connectors. While you are inspecting these plugs, check for corrosion, loose pins, broken wires, and pins not making good contact. Disassemble the front and rear halves of the scooter when you do this.
If all the resistance checks are good up to the controller plug for the brake, you have a bad controller. With that being said, I usually see a bad connection at the multiple points in-between. Sometimes the wires for the brake will melt at the connector at the controller.
Inspect these areas visually, removing the rear cover of the brake/motor/transaxle and the controller. An experienced tech should charge you under 1 hour labor for the diagnosis. You may be able to save some money by checking the obvious areas for unplugged or bad connections first.
The brake will cost about $250, the interface wiring and connectors about $50 and the controller is about $500. For this reason, you should invest in a good tech to diagnose the problem first, before proceeding with any hit and miss do it yourself repairs.
Including a second visit to install the new parts, labor cost should not exceed 2 hours total.
This is a very popular model so you should be able to find an experienced tech in your area.

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