Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

4 Answers

Kenmore electric dryer Model 63932: Push-to-start button has to be held in to start motor. There is no heat. Replaced Even heat electronic control assembly -- made no difference. Will not enter self test mode. Continuity tests OK for heat element, thermal fuse, high limit thermostat. On fabric care temperature switch, continuity OK on everything except contacts 2-4 pins on medium heat reads open and should read closed.

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  • dan1215 Oct 01, 2010

    I tried both your suggestions, one at a time. first I disconnected the pink/blk wires from the motor relay, hooked them together and pushed start. I still had to hold the start button to keep the motor running. Then I also took the 2 blue wires off the relay---same result.

    I took the pink/white wires off the heater relay, put them together and held in the start button for 2 minutes -- no heat. any more suggestions?

  • dan1215 Oct 01, 2010

    Also, I do have continuity across the pins on the thermal cut-off. I am not sure where the thermal fuse is or how to get to it.

  • dan1215 Oct 01, 2010

    Yes, thank you. Both the motor worked and the heat came on with the solid wires crossed. But now what? Does this mean that if I change out the motor and heater relays, the machine will work properly?

  • dan1215 Oct 02, 2010

    The heater and motor relays are not activating because they are not receiving 110V power to switch them. It is unlikely that both relays would have failed at the same time. I have double-checked all electrical components, including the timer protocol. I have also returned the control board under warranty just incase the new one was defective. What else culd cause failure of the relays to switch?

  • dan1215 Oct 03, 2010

    Model # 110.63932101

  • dan1215 Oct 04, 2010

    Did you receive model #? I am waiting to hear from you.

  • dan1215 Oct 04, 2010

    I still need help. there is continuity on the line (PINK/black) wire side of the motor relay, ditto the heater relay. What else can be wrong?

  • dan1215 Oct 04, 2010

    Last answer was not pertinent. What is preventing signal to relays?

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4 Answers

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 8,220 Answers

The motor relay is probably shot.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 3,051 Answers

Hello there:
I came across was an article on how to get into factory test mode for a Kenmore Elite Dryer. Here's the process:

  • Unplug and Replug the dryer (just get into a known state)
  • Close the Door
  • Set the Signal Setting to Off
  • Set Fabric Setting to Air Fluff
  • Open the Dryer Door
  • Set Signal Setting to High
  • Set the Timer to Timed Dry or Auto (Pick the setting you want to test - moving to or past OFF turns off the test mode)
  • Set Fabric back and forth from Air Fluff to Ultra Delicate three times in under 5 seconds (six clicks)
  • If you get a "BEEP" WAIT "BEEP BEEP", you've succeeded.
Once in the mode, everytime the dryer senses a change, it will beep. As I was worried that the moisture sensor was defective, I would take a moist washcloth (ran it under the facet) and put the washcloth across the sensor. As the unit runs 240 volts, if something is really bad - you don't want your finger across the electrodes. Remember that there will be a BEEP for sensing something across the electrodes and a BEEP for removing it from the electrodes. If you leave it there, there may be some further delayed BEEPS as the capacitor charges/discharges.
I liked TechBuddy's suggestions for test too:
  • Open/Close the Door for a BEEP
  • Fabric Setting for a BEEP
  • Push to Start Button for a BEEP on pushing in and a BEEP on letting go
  • Transition to Wrinkle Guard for a BEEP (move the timer just before wrinkle guard and the timer will move into wrinkle guard, so you'll get a delayed BEEP)
One thing that threw me off is that I didn't know the timer motor would be running (the timer motor moves the dial). So I heard some random BEEP's. Then, when I tested the wrinkle guard transition, I noticed the BEEP, but did not pay attention to when it went to OFF. When it goes to OFF, the dryer gives a dying BEEeeepp. I thought I had broke the machine, but it was just turning off and letting me know of its last change.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

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  • Master
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What is the exact model # of the unit please?

Thanks!!

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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  • Master
  • 1,554 Answers

The problem with the motor not staying on when the push-to-start button is pushed is the motor relay. The motor relay is not working to close and complete the motor circuit and this can be verified by bypassing the motor relay.

Disconnect power to the dryer then pull the end cap trims off then remove the control panel securing screws. Once the screws are removed, rotate the control panel up to the rear of the dryer.
Kenmore electric dryer Model 63932: - 7dc1f6f.jpg
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Disconnect the motor relay contact wires (pink with black stripe) then tape them together and insulate properly. Refer to the component layout diagram for the location of thKenmore electric dryer Model 63932: - cb4fbf7.jpg />cb4fbf7.jpg
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Do the same with the heater relay contact wires (piKenmore electric dryer Model 63932: - 2e8938c.jpgte stripe) also to verify if it's the one causing the dryer not heating.
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Replace the relay if bypassing it makes the dryer work properly.

Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off if bypassing the heater relay still doesn't make the dryer heat up. Replace the therma
l cut-off if blown together with the high-limit thermostat. Do not use the dryer with any of the components bypassed due to fire hazards.

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 01, 2010

    My apologies for my mistake. Instead of the pink wires with stripe bypassed, the blue wires on the motor relay and the red wires on the heater relay must be the ones joined together. Reconnect the pink with stripe wires to their appropriate connections, no need to disconnect them. The motor should start and heat automatically when the dryer is plugged in with the door closed.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 01, 2010

    It simply means the relays are not working and the old control board is still good. Reinstall the old board and replace the relays then the machine will surely work properly. Either resell the new board or keep it as a spare.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 02, 2010

    Yes it is unlikely that both fails at the same time but it can and as you can see, both relays are connected to the control board through the pink with stripe wires. This is the power connections of the relays. The logic is this; the control board is new, therefore there are no other reasons for the relays not to activate except that both are not working or the wires that connect them are faulty if you are certain that both the old and the new comtrol boards are good.

    Follow the advice and please reconsider accepting the solution.

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Oct 04, 2010

    The relays receive power from the control board through the pink stripe wires and tracing the fault can be done like this: check the relays, the wiring connections, and the control board. Since the wires are good and properly connected, the problem is either in the relays or the control board. The control board is new and can be assumed that it is in perfect condition, therefore the problem is in the relays. But if you are in no doubt, performed tests and found out that the relays are all good, then the new control board board must be defective. Reinstall the old control board and see what happens. Also check connections to the control board.

    Note: Please indicate explicitly what you have done so far. It is not clear whether you performed tests on the relays.

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