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I need a parts diagram for a stihl 017 chainsaw

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 594 Answers

SOURCE: I need a parts diagram for a Homelite PS-33 chainsaw

Go to m-and-d.com then parts diagram the illustrated parts online then parts look up then select oem select homelite then find model number.

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

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Dolfoff
  • 148 Answers

SOURCE: tunning specification for a stihl 028 chainsaw?

I'm not sure there are any "endorsed" tuning specs from Stihl as weather, temperature, fuel quality etc all contribute to engine performance.
Pictures of all types are all over the web.

As for the carb tuning procedure, maybe I can help?

Start with fresh fuel, all filters clean, and bar and chain installed. Also, fill the chain oil tank with bar/chain oil and VERIFY that the chain oiler works properly.
Initial fuel mixture settings (the H and L screws) should be 1.5 - 2 complete revolutions counter clockwise from lightly seated. Sight the carb's throttle plate and adjust idle screw counter clockwise until the plate stops moving.(Throttle closed completely.) Then go back clockwise 3 complete revolutions. This will produce an acceptable startup condition on a HEALTHY saw.
Clamp the bar in a STURDY bench vise and roll the chain with the shank of a screwdriver to verify it is clear. BE SAFE!
Choke the saw and pull the starter rope until the engine "burps".
NOTE: If no burp after 6 pulls, stop! Something is wrong.
After the burp, set choke to half and pull starter until it runs. The settings I gave should produce a slightly rich condition and a slightly high idle. (Chain will be in motion!)

Blip the throttle trigger and idle it down just enough to keep it running during the tune procedure.
Step 1) Using the "L" screw (closest to the engine), turn it clockwise until the engine smooths out or possibly increases RPM. Back it out slightly until the engine has a slight "LOPE" sound to it. (Like a drag car on nitro).
Step 2) Accelerate the engine to full throttle and go to the "H" screw (closest to the air filter) and slowly turn it clockwise and note the RPM increase. There will come a point when the saw will "Top-Out" and loose power. Not even enough power to turn an maintain empty chain's RPM! Go back counter clockwise to the edge of that point, and counter clockwise another fourth (1/4) revolution.
Step 3) Idle the saw back down. Again go to the "L" screw and repeat Step 1.
Step 4) Repeat Step 2.
Step 5) Idle the saw down until the chain stops moving completely. NOTE: Don't settle for a "crawling chain" condition. If the steps above are performed well and all else is healthy, you should be able to idle the engine down to a ridiculously low RPM and it will not shut off.

Hope this helps,
Dolf-

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: i need a parts manual for a stihl 026 chainsaw

Hi,

Parts list here http://bricomeca.free.fr/Stihl/stihl%20026%20IPL.pdf

if this helps please leave feedback

Posted on Feb 04, 2010

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: Need parts diagram for Stihl 034 chainsaw.

Stihl considers all IPLs, Shop Manuals and OM parts proprietary. When they discover an on-line source for any of these they force it be removed.

They cannot stop individual owners from sharing expertise and technical publications. This is an international collection of good people that are obsessed with all chainsaw (this obsession is HIGHLY contagious).
ArboristSite Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/f orumdisplay.php?f=9


This thread is discussing an oiler problem on a Stihl 034.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=126068&highlight=stihl+034

People share publications here (many request for and replies to 034 IPLs):
ArboristSite Beg for manuals thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=72322

I will provide this before you go (if oil pump or gear failure they are behind the clutch), I think it has an inboard clutch removal begins as follows:
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.

Any remaining pieces can be removed using this as a guide:
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc

  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
It is not as difficult as it appears. Good Luck. HTH
Lou

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

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