Question about Haier Microwave Ovens

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My Haire microwave oven model HR28EC controller printed circuit board is defective. In the Highvoltage section one triac (possibly) and one resistor is burnt. I want to replace those but the values are not available.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore microwave model 721.62644200

We see this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide for $39.95 postpaid.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jan 20, 2008

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: KitchenAid Superba combination built-in oven

It sounds like a stuck relay or other controller problem.

I don't have the service data on this one, but there should be a schematic or tech sheet / mini-manual either on the back side, behind the controls, or somewhere else inside.

If you or someone you know can locate them and scan and e-mail or copy & fax them to me, I can probably give you further guidance.

Please feel free to contact me directly.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Posted on Jul 23, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: MICROWAVE D9023EFL BRANDT MODEL

Brandt is overhauling their Web site, so i would call 0870 240 8095 for parts.

If you are not in the UK, please let me know.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 12, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool microwave/oven combo- model #RM288PXS

That would be a problem with your control board. It probably needs a few capacitors and a relay replaced and minor circuit board repair.

We regularly repair these control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week with a one-year guarantee.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

P.S. (to Guest: Please make a new post with your model number. I think your problem is different.)

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Posted on Nov 08, 2008

jmgldsmth
  • 1889 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore over the range microwave 721.63684300 - nothing works

you must remove the MW take off the cover then look for a large metal can (capacitor) and a white (ceramic) fuse...look and, smell and, you should find the cause

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

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2 Answers

GE JVM1850CH06 MICROWAVE


the panel display is fried. you'll need to remove and replace it...this the sort of thing you enjoy doing?

May 23, 2008 | GE XL1800 1100 Watts Microwave Oven

Tip

Continued


What can go wrong The most common problems occur in the microwave generating portion of the system, though the controller can be blown by a lightning strike or other power surge. Bad interlock switches probably account for the majority of microwave oven problems. Also, since the touchpad is exposed, there is a chance that it can get wet or damaged. If wet, a week or so of non-use may cure keys that don't work. If damaged, it will probably need to be replaced - this is straightforward if the part can be obtained, usually direct from the manufacturer. Unfortunately, it is an expensive part ($20-50 typical). The interlock switches, being electromechanical can fail to complete the primary circuit on an oven which appears to operate normally with no blown fuses but no heat as well. Faulty interlocks or a misaligned door may result in the fuse blowing as described above due to the incorrect sequencing of the door interlock switches. Failed interlocks are considered to be the most common problems with microwave ovens, perhaps as high as 75% of all failures
No adjustments should ever be required for a microwave oven and there are no screws to turn so don't look for any!

General system problems The following problems are likely power or controller related and not in the microwave generator unless due to a blown fuse or bad/intermittent connections:
  • Totally dead oven.
  • No response to any buttons on touchpad
  • Oven runs when door is still open.
  • Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
  • Oven works but display is blank.
  • Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
  • Erratic behavior.
  • Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
  • Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
First, unplug the microwave oven for a couple of minutes. Sometimes, the microcontroller will get into a whacko mode for some unknown reason - perhaps a power surge - and simply needs to be reset. The problem may never reoccur.
Note: when working on controller related problems, unplug the connection to the microwave generator (HV transformer primary) from the power relay or triac - it is often a separate connector. This will prevent any possible accidental generation of microwave energy as well as eliminating the high voltage (but not the AC line) shock hazard during servicing.
If this does not help, there is likely a problem with the controller circuitry or its power and you will have to get inside the oven.


Uninvited guests Some cockroaches (or other lower life forms) may have taken up residence on the controller circuit board. It is warm, cozy, safe, and from their point of view makes an ideal habitat. If you got the microwave oven from a flea market, garage sale, the curb, a relative, or friend, or if your kitchen isn't the cleanest in the world, such visitors are quite possible. Creatures with six or more legs (well, some two legged varieties as well) are not known for their skills in the areas of housekeeping and personal hygiene. Clean the circuit board and connectors thoroughly with water and then isopropyl alcohol. Dry completely. Inspect the circuit traces for corrosion or other damage. If there are any actual breaks, these will have be be jumpered with fine wire and then soldered. Hopefully, no electronic components were affected though there is always a slight possibility of other problems.
Totally dead oven First, check power to the outlet using a lamp or radio you know works. The fuse or circuit breaker at your service panel may have blown/tripped due to an overload or fault in the microwave oven or some other appliance. You may just have too many appliances plugged into this circuit - microwave ovens are high current appliances and should be on a dedicated circuit if possible. If you attempt to run a heating appliance like a toaster or fryer at the same time, you *will* blow the fuse or trip the circuit breaker. A refrigerator should never be plugged into the same circuit for this reason as well - you really don't want it to be without power because of your popcorn! If you find the fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped, unplug everything from the circuit to which the microwave is connected (keep in mind that other outlets may be fed from the same circuit). Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the same thing happens again, you have a problem with the outlet or other wiring on the same branch circuit. If plugging in the microwave causes the fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip immediately, there is a short circuit in the power cord or elsewhere.
The microwave oven may be powered from a GFCI outlet or downstream of one and the GFCI may have tripped. (Removing a broken oven lamp has been known to happen.) The GFCI outlet may not be in an obvious location but first check the countertop outlets. The tripped GFCI could be in the garage or almost anywhere else! Pushing the RESET button may be all that's needed.
Next, try to set the clock. With some ovens the screen will be totally blank following a power outage - there may be nothing wrong with it. Furthermore, some ovens will not allow you perform any cooking related actions until the clock is set to a valid time.
Assuming these are not your problems, a fuse has probably blown although a dead controller is a possibility.
If the main fuse is upstream of the controller, then any short circuit in the microwave generator will also disable the controller and display. If this is the case, then putting in a new fuse will enable the touchpad/display to function but may blow again as soon as a cook cycle is initiated if there is an actual fault in the microwave circuits.
Therefore, try a new fuse. If this blows immediately, there may be a short very near the line cord, in the controller, or a defective triac (if your oven uses a triac). Or, even a shorted oven lamp - remove and inspect the light bulb and socket.
If it does not blow, initiate a cook cycle (with a cup of water inside). If the oven now works, the fuse may simply have been tired of living. This is common.
If the fuse still blows immediately, confirm that the controller is operational by unplugging the microwave generator, power relay, and/or triac from the controller. If a new fuse does not now blow when a cook cycle is initiated - and it appears to operate normally - then one of the components in the microwave generator is defective (shorted).
Some models have a thermal fuse as well and this may have failed for no reason or a cooling fan may not be working and the oven overheated (in which case it probably would have died while you were cooking something for an important guest - assuming you would use a microwave oven for such a thing!).
Other possible causes: bad controller power supply or bad controller chip.


Totally dead oven after repair On some microwave ovens, there is at least one cabinet screw that is slightly longer than all the others. This engages a safety interlock which prevents the oven from receiving power if the correct screw is missing or in the wrong hole. Check the length of all the screws and locate the interlock switch behind one of the screw holes. I don't know how common this practice is but have heard of it on some Sharp models.

Dead controller The most common way that the controller circuitry can be harmed is by a power surge such as from a lightning strike. Hopefully, only components on the primary side of the power transformer will be affected.
  • Check the primary of the power transformer - if it is open, there may be a fuse/thermal fuse underits outer insulation. If not, the transformer will need to be replaced. There is a good chance that the surge didn't propagate beyond the transformer and thus the rest of the controlled should be unaffected.
  • In some cases, circuit board traces may have been vaporized (but repair may still be possible by simply jumpering across the crater). Some of these thin traces may be there specifically to act as fuses - and there may even be spares to use for just this situation!
  • Assuming that the main fuse and power transformer primary checks out, then check the power supply for the controller next.
  • As always, also check for bad solder connections.
If the controller power supply is working and there is still no sign of life (dead display and no response to buttons) the microcontroller chip or some other part may be bad. It could be a simple part like a capacitor or diode, but they would all need to be tested. At this point, a schematic of the controller board will be needed - often impossible to get - and replacement controller or even just the main chip may be nearly as expensive as a complete new oven.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

Tip

Troubleshooting Guide


  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

7 Answers

Blows fuses!


sir,

Try this link for the manual to repair it.

http://www.eserviceinfo.com/browse.php?id=36

www.yinyanghome.com/Products/Icebox/Microwave.pdf

Mar 11, 2008 | Panasonic NN-T990SA Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Power 100 code


you must try this:God bless you
If you are unable to adjust the power level, there may be a defective triac or a problem with the circuit board.

  1. Controller is confusedA power surge or random non-reproducible action of the universe may have resulted in the controller's program ending up in an infinite loop. Pull the plug for a minute or two to reset it.
  2. Defective Interlock switchesThis can result in the controller thinking the door is open and ignoring you.
  3. CleaningCleaning solutions (spray cleaner) may have gotten inside and shorted out the touchpad or controller. If this happens remove the touchpad, let it air dry for a few days, and then attach it back on the microwave.

Nov 14, 2013 | Kenmore 66469 / 66462 / 66464 Microwave...

1 Answer

The door did't closed!!!


follow this steps and fix IT. God bless you

1. Defective triac or relay.
2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
3. Defective controller or its power supply.
4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
5. Defective/damaged touchpad

Jul 28, 2013 | Panasonic NNSN797S Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Where is the Triac & what does it look like?


A triac is a bidirectional switching device which in older model microwave ovens is used to regulate the AC input power to the high voltage section to turn the cooking power off and on and to set the cooking power.

Depending on the model, they would most commonly be located on or near the control circuit board or on the chassis floor of the oven.

They may look like one of those in the attached photo.

microwavesvc_8.jpg
If you have a Jenn-Air microwave, you can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Dec 16, 2010 | Jenn-Air Microwave Ovens

2 Answers

Microwave not heating food


check magnetron and related circuit, and control unit and highvoltage section..

Nov 19, 2007 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

No cook mode


check control circuit, and check highvoltage section, and all the door lock switches, and sensors, chaeck over all circuit..

Oct 07, 2007 | Panasonic NN-S540BF Microwave Oven

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