I have an old oven, late 50's I believe. The range and the controls + lights all work. the plate warmer works just fine, but the oven just wont heat. all the elements have been tighten down along with everything on the back of the oven. still no heat though, it was fine the other day. and Im just out of ideas. can anyone help?
frigidaire by general motors, model # RO-60, 5420302
installation form O, serial # 14c23992
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It sounds like the control board blew out. I have had a couple of these just blow like that lately. The bake and broil wont work. . Check for any bad wiring but the control board is most likely the culprit.
Hello angeleyez82 - The EOC (electronic oven control/control
board) basically sends power to both the broil and bake elements. As long as
the power supply to the range (240VAC) and wiring between the elements is
correct, then typically only the element(s) or EOC could prevent the unit from
heating. I hope this information helps to some degree.
Hi Chris Stewart - If the bake element and the top of the range works, but just not the heating element, then you possibly have a bad broiler element or connection. However, if you are experiencing other performance difficulties, then the control board may possibly be faulty and needs replacing. Consult a professional for an accurate diagnosis.
Sounds like you need an bake element ignitor if the bake doesn't work but if the broil also doesn't work, it could be the electronic clock/timer control. the part number for the bake ignitor is 8054129 .Best off to call a reliable service company such as Sears.
Late models rely on a circuit board with a small black relay to power the oven and broiler elements. These relays often fail shortly after the warranty period. If you're handy with electronics and a soldering gun you can replace the relay components with parts from Radio Shack. Otherwise buy the circuit board. Get the part number from the board and shop on-line for best prices. I have repaired once using optical semiconductor relays to pass low voltage to new definite purpose contactors rated 40Amps and normally used for HVAC systems. This required addition of a 24vac control voltage transformer. Isolation of the circuit by the optical semiconductor relays makes clear where the add-on circuit starts for future repairmen who examine the unit.
We had the same thing happen and now they came and said it was the clock that needs to be replaced. They said that controls the oven. Even though clock is on and working the function for turning on the oven is not
This is probably the thermal shuttoff fuse. Usualy mounted in the back of the oven. Aftermarket fuses are resetable but the OEM ones that come with the ovens usualy are not, so when they go out they stay out. This shuttoff only effects the power to the element so the rest of the oven appears to work.
The oven has to come out and remove the rear covers, behind the covers you will see 2 wires that go to a small 1/2 in dia "plug" that mounts directly to the surface with 2 screws.
Remove the connections and put a meter across the cuttout. it should read very close to zero ohms, if not its blown.
Built-in ovens have a thermal fuse mounted in the back of the oven preventing the bake and broil from operating. In some cases this fuse will open after a self clean operation. In some models, the cooling fan turns off too soon, causing an overtemperature condition that may also cause the fuse to open. You will have to remove the oven and take off the back panel to gain access to this device.