Had the ld code i checked the discharge hose and replaced .
After replacing hose I thought maybe that was problem since washer could not reach its operating water leval but I now found that there maybe another problem because now it won't discharge any water. any suggestions would be a great help. I do have the front cover off next I plan on taking the bottom
off to check out the pump and other lines for blockage.
Re: had the ld code i checked the discharge hose and...
I experienced many LD's over the years with my whirlpool calypso. My non-technical solution (not recommended but it usually worked) was to push an electrical "fish tape" down the discharge hose trying to dislodge some debris. That process was successful about 90% of the time.
Perhaps the better solution is to take the back off and look at what I believe is a check valve contraption. That piece has about four hoses that attach to it. What I recently did was remove the hose on the left side as you face the back of the washer (closest to the back wall of the washer). I then found a suitable instrument that I could shove into the valve assembly and hook onto the big clump of debris that had collected in the valve assembly. By the time I was done there was about a baseball size clump of lint and hair and who knows what............but the washer did drain freely after that ............(until the U-Joint failed).
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The 4E error indicates that the washer hasn't detected enough water coming into the unit. The problem could be in your incoming water line (low water pressure), the washer hoses, the inlet valves, or the sensors that detect the length of time to reach a specific amount of water in the washer. It can even be caused by having the outlet hose positioned too low in the discharge pipe or sink.
First check the obvious possibilities: make sure that the shut-off valves have been opened. If you hear water running into the washer and then into the discharge plumbing after a few minutes, raise the end of the discharge hose to a level above the washer fill level.
Shut-off the incoming water and remove the washer fill hoses. Place a bucket under the hoses and open the shut-off valves. Check that you have good water pressure; the washer is looking for the tub to fill in about 8 minutes. Then turn off the water. Clean the filters in the hose at the shut-off valves and the ones inside the washer at the inlet valve. You may want to replace the washer fill hoses; some anti-flood hoses will constrict if they detect a leak and limit the water pressure.
If the water flow at the hoses is good and isn't exiting the washer, then the problem is either the inlet valve or the water flow sensor. Does any water reach the tub? If it doesn't, check the inlet valve and make sure that it is getting the proper electrical signal from the control unit. If water is reaching the tub, then the problem in the flow sensing system. Some washers use an air tube that helps check the pressure in the system. If this tube is leaking or clogged, the sensor will give incorrect messages. Other systems have a small switch that moves as the water passes through the inlet valve. This can fail.
There can be other problems that give the same symptoms. If you post the model number of your washer, I may be able to point you to the correct diagnostic steps.
The "LD" error code has resulted in a service call for me once. I watched what the service man did and he took the panel off of the bottom of the machine (3 - 5/16" screws) and then the drain assemply is in the rear of the unit. You must drain with a low height pan such as a dish drain pan. Then he found an wire from an underwire bra in there. This was the problem. $150 later we were good to go. This has happened twice since and I was able to remove this myself. Just be careful and take your time.
The code on your machine stands for 'Long Drain'. Ld flashes if it takes longer than 5 minutes to pump out water to a point where the operating pressure switch resets. I would bet that the bath mats left a bunch of stuff stuck in the recirculation pump hose, or pump itself, and the water cannot be drained fast enough. Check the intake and exit hoses of the recirc pump. It's easiest to get to the pump through the front panel of the machine(click here). Looks like this: click here. Hope this helps.
(Definitely get under there and check to make sure the pump hoses are not clogged. At $129 it's an expensive fix for a $10 bath mat that clogged up the hose with fuzz. 'know what I'm sayin'' :o) )
BTW, I have the maintenance manual & have experience at replacing the recirc. pump, control board, motor board, touchpad, & lid switch so far.
Is there water in the bottom of the tub? If yes then open back of washer and remove drain pump (on left side) and pull off of tub and clear whatever is blocking its impeller. If the water is all gone and drained but pump stays on for several minutes and then gives "LD" fault then open back and check the small clear tube that is attached to the tub. Make sure is not blocked with debris and check tube and tub for anything that could block the small clear tube. If these are ok then remove 3 screws in back of the control panel, pull open control panel and check the clear tub all the way up from the tub to the washer controller board (computer) make sure it is not kinked or disconnected. If not then the problem is most likely the pressure sensor on the (computer). This unit will have to be replaced. You can test the sensor by doing the following: 1. When the "LD" fault comes on start by pressing the pause button. then pull the clear tube off of the computer board. Then attach a tight fitting drinking straw over the sensor. Press the start button and wait for 60 seconds - If the washer does not start the spin cycle on its own after the 60 seconds then **** on the drinking straw that you attached to the pressure sensor earlier. The sucking action should reset the sensor thus telling the computer that the water is drained and it will start the spin cycle. Just remember if you have to do this to get the washer to spin - that means the sensor is damaged most likely from moisture traveling up the tube over time. The computer board will need to be replaced. I believe it costs $205 without shipping. Hope this helps.
CHECK THE AREA MOULDED INTO THE OUTER TUB AT THE
BOTTOM BACK WHERE THE HOSES ATTACH TO THE TUB.
A FAVORITE PLACE FOR OBJECTS TO GET CAUGHT. IF O.K., CHECK THE ELECTRICAL WIRING FROM THE PUMP
MOTOR TO THE CONTROL BOARD. THERE IS A CONNECTOR BEHIND THE FRONT PANEL AT THE BASE. MAKE SURE THE PINS IN THE CONNECTOR ARE NOT CORRODED.
IF ALL IS O.K., REPLACE THE CONTROLLER FOR THE PUMP
* The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
I had a similar problem twice and botht time the culprit was a loose bra wire that had found it's way down to the discharge area prior to the drain outlet. It was interfering with the check valve ball and causing the error message. I removed one of the hoses and reached in with a needle nose pliers tos snatch the loose wire. I hope this helps.