SOURCE: Whirlpool not agitating
Hi everyone - I ended up calling a repairman. It was small part that needed to be replaced. It cost me $65 for the visit, $20 for labor and $20 for parts. The repairman told me it would probably be good for another 5 years.
SOURCE: Whirlpool Cabrio High Efficiency Top-Loading
PROBLEM RESOLVED!!!
The best I could find by scouring the internet was that it was a communication problem between the central control unit and the electronic control box. I was getting F1 codes that would stop the wash, then diagnostics showed F68 and F41 codes.
Sears wanted to charge $65 just to come out and diagnose it themselves, and these appliance sites wanted to charge their own fees to offer solutions. So I took a chance and ordered a new electronic control box ($146.00 + S&H) and installed it myself.
There are three long screws behind the control unit "hood", in the back-top of the washer, facing straight up and down. After unscrewing, I lifted up the hood up and forward, and there was a black box - the electronic control. First, you should check all the wires and make sure the connections are ok. If that still doesn't fix it, unplug all the wires, and take the electronic control out by unscrewing one 1/4" bolt. Put the new one in and re-wire everything (it shows what wires go where on the electronic control box - named by colors). No more error codes!
This washer is only a year and a half old as well, I guess it will pobably be my last Kenmore/Whirlp
SOURCE: washer only makes a humming noise
HI,
It doesn't agitate
If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:
Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch
If
the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or
function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing
near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front
of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you
need to replace it.
Motor coupler
Many
washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive
motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of
the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time,
the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to
completely replace it.
Belts
Many
washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly
worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer.
(Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics
not found in automotive belts.)
Clutch
If
your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the
clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from
agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace
it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance
repair technician.
Drive motor
Many
washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in
one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for
a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the
other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
Drive pulleys
The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.
Transmission
The transmission could have either of these problems:
If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
Agitator
The
inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can
become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to
properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and
forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this
happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission
spline.
SOURCE: Agitator not working
you can put a serch in you tube for" motor coupling repair" simple enough procedure, easier to watch then explain... part number 285753
SOURCE: whirlpool washing machine gearbox won't
here is a good site for that.
http://repair2000.com/coupling.html
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