Question about Whirlpool LSR5132PQ Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Whirlpool not agitating
Hi everyone - I ended up calling a repairman. It was small part that needed to be replaced. It cost me $65 for the visit, $20 for labor and $20 for parts. The repairman told me it would probably be good for another 5 years.
Posted on Nov 13, 2007
The best I could find by scouring the internet was that it was a communication problem between the central control unit and the electronic control box. I was getting F1 codes that would stop the wash, then diagnostics showed F68 and F41 codes.
Sears wanted to charge $65 just to come out and diagnose it themselves, and these appliance sites wanted to charge their own fees to offer solutions. So I took a chance and ordered a new electronic control box ($146.00 + S&H) and installed it myself.
There are three long screws behind the control unit "hood", in the back-top of the washer, facing straight up and down. After unscrewing, I lifted up the hood up and forward, and there was a black box - the electronic control. First, you should check all the wires and make sure the connections are ok. If that still doesn't fix it, unplug all the wires, and take the electronic control out by unscrewing one 1/4" bolt. Put the new one in and re-wire everything (it shows what wires go where on the electronic control box - named by colors). No more error codes!
This washer is only a year and a half old as well, I guess it will pobably be my last Kenmore/Whirlp
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.
Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.
Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:
Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
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