Question about Frigidaire FGR341AC Electric Dryer
Jan, It sounds like you have a few separate issues going on. I would call a qualified repairman.
Posted on Jun 14, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Might not be a dryer problem. Following assumes that the breaker that's going is an overcurrent device (something in place of a fuse - what we in the UK usually call an "MCB") rather than an earth leakage circuit breaker. MCBs often have two trip devices - an electromagnetic trip which protects against major faults, and a thermal backup which protects against chronic overload. It could be that you're cooking the thermal element. How much current is the dryer meant to take? (Calculate by dividing power consumption in watts by supply voltage). Is there anything else coming off the same circuit breaker at the same time? Calculate the current drawn by the other loads, and add them all up. If the total current is more than the rated current of the breaker, not only have you found the likely source of your problem but also you've identified that you are overloading your wiring (finding this out is a good thing, as it gives you the opportunity to stop before you set the place on fire). If the total current is below, but near the rated current of the breaker, then you may have a problem with the breaker itself. Possibilities include inadequate ventilation around it or location in a cabinet which is picking up external heat (both need sorting out urgently) - or it may be that the breaker is old and tired and has gone out of calibration. Investigating any of these needs more skill than it's wise to try to acquire from a stranger on the web. A.
Posted on May 24, 2007
SOURCE: Maytag Dryer quit running
If your not a handyperson, this could be expensive...
a) you didn't tell us if this is a newer electronically controlled dryer, or just the old reliable type... newer types, in my opinion, will generally have more controls fail than the older types, but sometimes something on the older types fail also... to replace the newer stuff will cost lots -- cheaper to buy an ol' reliable...
b) besides checking the lint trap, you should periodically inspect the outside vent to make sure the airflow is good... also, it's always a good thing to take apart the dyer every now and then and clean it out if the dryer has run a lot... in most cases, the dryer would be replaced before it really needs to be cleaned out (I kept mine for many, many years)
c) in the dryer heater duct, there are a number of safety switches -- if for any reason, the dyer air should over heat, it shuts down the dryer -- some are resettable, some are the replaceable type, but both types will be used; unfortunately, even if a resettable switch operates, the replaceable will almost always operate...
d) since it appears nothing works, I suspect the heating element is still probably good, but...
e) if the breaker was not tripped, then the motor is probably OK...
f) I'm not sure, it's been awhile since I've had my dryer torn apart, but I think it will also shutdown if the drum drive belt breaks...
My suggestion is to call a trustworthy repairman, determine the potential costs up front and then decide whether to replace or repair... or call a trusted friend to fix it if they have the knowhow...
Posted on Jul 27, 2008
I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
Based on your description of the problem, I came up with a theory. Your new dryer is of higher wattage than your old one and is therefore pulling more amperage. I'd also make a bet that your dual breaker in the basement has the number "30" printed on it. Whether it does or not, your breaker should be replaced.
NOTE---> Ideally, you'd begin by removing the breakers (there are 2 of them) from the panel and take them with you to Lowe's, Home Depot or Ace Hardware and ask one of the sales associates for a 40 amp version. This way, you'd be sure to get the right ones. If you don't want to do that, then open up the breaker box and copy all the information off of the dryer breaker (also take not of how wide it is... 1/2", 3/4", etc...). Basically you'll need who made it (Square D, G.E., etc...) and how wide it is. Use this info to shop for a 40 amp version.
I don't need to tell you that working inside a breaker box can be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if you are not careful. Here is a picture of the inside of the box, NOTICE THE LUGS AT THE TOP! THEY ARE ALWAYS "HOT" AND SHOULD NEVER BE TOUCHED!!!!!
Before you remove the panel to access the interior of the box, TURN OFF YOUR "MAIN BREAKER" (it's shown in the picture above).
Now that all of the safety stuff is covered, all you gotta do is pull the bad breaker out and install the new one! Piece of cake, really. Here's a video on how it's done.There ya go! If this has been helpful for you, please remember to rate this solution. Thanks for using FixYa!
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
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If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
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check out this electric no heat tip...
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