Question about Creda W120VW Front Load Washer

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Intermittent - might it be shared outlet pipe?

My machine gives me intermittent faults like switching off mid-cycle, not spinning etc. Switching power off-wait ten
mins-switch on again sometimes works. Could it be because the outlet hose shares the same downpipe as the dishwasher and is a bit tight?

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  • MicheleF May 25, 2008

    i have this problem too, please notify me with a solution! That'd be great!!

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  • 66 Answers

I doubt it it ,when you click it on manually does it carry on if so it sounds like it will be the carbon brushes goodluck dont forget to unplug

Posted on Jun 14, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Es-f800ks washing machine is power supply problem..That means is when i plug in the power then just 3 second only comming..after that no power..I try it many time ..It's same things..


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

Mar 29, 2015 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

When plugging it in to the socket it powers up only for a minute then trips the power any ideas?


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!







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when-plugging-in-socket-powers-up-only-fgv1ctnzjgewe3hu2qpqylbk-3-2.jpg

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Mar 22, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Ground fault keeps tripping


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.






Mar 17, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Why did my washer stop mid cycle and now won't work at all?


Hope your warranty is still in effect. It sounds like your control board has an electronic problem that will require replacement; typically around $135 for the part and $110 for the service visit.

Aug 21, 2014 | Zanussi Washing Machines

1 Answer

Stops mid cycle and the 400 and 0 spin lights flash


According to the service manual ( which you can download ) it is the fault code 05 which means NTC failure. This is the water temperature sensor.

Feb 17, 2013 | Whirlpool AWM6120 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Intermittent no spin


What is the complete model number of your unit?

Dec 10, 2012 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The rinse cycle on my washer leaves soap and the spin cycle leaves water. I've decreased the amount of soap and ran through another spin cycle with no change. I ran the spin cycle while watching it and at...


Good day,
There is blockage between the outlet of the tub on the machine to the end of the hose.
First, if you have the outlet hose that is fitted into a standpipe, that could well be the problem.
In other words, there is nothing wrong with the washer, it is plumbing problem in the vertical drain pipe. Happens often.
Shut the water to the machine off, remove one of the hoses, and stick it into the stand pipe. Turn the water on. If it backs up, that is your problem.

If not, then the machine is at fault. A hose runs from the bottom outlet of the tub to the pump. Then from the pump to the outlet hose.
You'll need to remove the hoses, and pump to inspect them. It's even a possibility the pump's impeller is slipping, and lastly, check closely where the hose was removed from the bottom of the tube. Could be the classic "sock" problem.

You did not give the model. Get that information, and then type into google....................
"How to change a water pump on a ( your info) washer".
You'll get the hits you need to see how to access the pump and related accessories.

Dec 09, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

Hotpoint wd420 problems


we had this problem had to clean out the "self cleaning filter" this solved it for us

Dec 15, 2007 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing machine shuts down in spin cycle


Try the "spin only" button to take the water out of your machine. If this does not work, take the pipe from the wall socket and lay it on the floor for the water to spill out. The spin normally does not work when the outlet filter is clogged; if the filter is clean you should then check your pipe coming out from under the tub (plug off the wall first before doing all these things). Last check your outlet pump, could be blocked with something. Refit carefully, you might need a nice pair of pliers to get the grip clip on and off the pipes.
The outlet pipe into the wall stands at a particular height, refit exactly to this height, about 3 feet from ground.

Nov 29, 2007 | Washing Machines

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