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Maytag Model MZD2768GE, Volume 26.9 Climate

Maytag Model MZD2768GE, Volume 26.9 Climate control technology - top drawer won't hold (preset temperature) It has Citrus, Produce and Meats - no matter which one I push, the temperature keeps dropping (as low as 25 when I shut it off and moved the meat from there to the next drawer) , waited 5 hrs, turned it back on the Temp read 40, waited 1/2 hour and the temp had dropped to 31, so I shut it off again. Is there a way to set the temperature and make it "hold" like a reset button or something like that?

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Refrigerator won't cool. Freezer works fine!

Pierce, there was a service bullitin put out on this model. TDR-0010A-B. Had to do with normal freezer, warm fresh food compartment. Maytag issued a kit that included a new thermostat and damper assy. to solve this problem. Bullitin came out in 2002. If you are not having a defrost issue and all fans are running normal, I would call Maytag and inquire about the above posted bullitin, It may be covered. back.

Posted on Sep 04, 2006

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SOURCE: Maytag fridge s-by-s freezes alot of the stuff at the back and lower vege drawer

Actually this seems about right. The air flow in the fridge is usually from the back top of the fridge. That will be the cold spot then the air sinks down to the bottom and then recycles back into the freezer comp. to get cold again. Door shelf is usually warmer than the rest. As with most units, it takes some understanding of the air circulation pattern in order to find the sweet spots for dairy products and meat, veggies, etc. Check to see if there are slider adjustments on the drawers for temp or humidity, etc. Also make sure there are not parts missing from the inside of the fridge. Sometime a part that appears to only be a small plastic item gets broken over time and never replaced when it could actually be very important to air circulation. I recommend getting a small floating aquarium thermometer and setting it in a glass of water in order to get the "true" temp. of the products not just the air temp of the fridge. Put the glass in different locations over a weeks period to record what the temps are like in different areas of the fridge so you can make a "map" of the cold spots, etc. Leave the thermometer in for about 12 hours before you record the temps for that location. I think you will find the answers you need in order to place your food more effieciently in the fridge. As for summer days, the unit will have to work harder in warm weather to cool than it does in the winter months of course but there is always a concern that you are not cooling 100%. The way to check that is to let the unit run for several hours (turn the temps down so it runs for at least an hour solid) then you would have to pull the whole interior rear freezer panel off the back to view the cooling coils and make sure they are fully frosted across the whole coil surface. If they are iced up only in a few inches of coils then you likely have leaked out the liquid refrigerant over the years and there's not enough to cool a full 100% of its capacity. And your complaints are the same with even brand new models... it's about 60% of our service calls (not cooling properly or freezing food).

Posted on Jan 28, 2007

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SOURCE: 'ice dam' on bottom of freezer, now problems with fluctuating temps

Kat, you only have 1 problem happening.And no this is not due to the original repair. (though I have to admit... replacing the filter/drier, starter and compressor is NOT part of routine maintenance and has me a little befuddled.) Your evaporator drain is plugged. Most likely with what we in the biz call "bio-gookus". This is normal, but must be cleared to keep the water from puddling and coming out your freezer door. With the evap panel removed and the drain hole exposed, pour 1/4 cup of HOT water into the drain hole. Use a small screwdriver or other small instrument to pick out the ice buildup. Once this is clear, use something like this to blow out the rest of the lines. After doing this, pour more hot water into the drain to verify free flow. This will take care of your leak problem. Now... the frost buildup. NEVER RUN YOUR FRIDGE WITH THE PANELS OFF! They are there for a reason, believe it or not. They direct air flow across the coils (both evaporative and condensing). Frost buildup is normal, though you may be experiencing higher levels of frost because of the panel missing...Your fridge utilizes an automatic defrost system. It'll initiate every 8 hours. This is controlled by a timer located in your fresh food section. The defrost heater RARELY fails on these. Fix the evaporator drain and replace all panels. This will solve your dilemma.

Posted on Aug 09, 2007

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SOURCE: Temp control moves on it's own

Mine was doing the same thing and it was really frustrating! I would come home and it would be 88* inside. I found out that this model air conditoner has had problems with moisture getting in the control panel and shorting it out when it's humid outside. I have the part number if anyone wants it. It cost me about $45 from Sears Parts.

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

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SOURCE: Maytag Gas Dryer - Flame starts and then turns off 5 seconds into cycle

HI thanks for your question. the coils on the gas valve are faulty . common problem with gas dryers , replace the coils thanks the appliance doc. please rate my answer. thanks

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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