Question about Brinkmann Charmglow Stainless Steel LP Drop-In 4-Burner Grill 810-6805-0 (LP)

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Can't operate more than one burner at a time - Brinkmann Charmglow Stainless Steel LP Drop-In 4-Burner Grill 810-6805-0 (LP)

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It could be something very simple. Remove the tank from the unit. Open and close all valves on the unit. Reattach the tank and SLOWLY open the tank just a little bit so as not to trip the safety mechanism inside it. Then retry.


Low flame on Outdoor Gas grill

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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Kitchenaid superba gas stove left front burner will not operate unless back left burner is turned on at same time


The switch for that particular burner is bad. It turns out that whenever you switch on 1 burner, they all spark - that's a safety feature. Depending on the model, you may just need to replace the 1 switch, but usually, they are part of a switch string, and you have to replaced the whole string of switches..

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I believe the HDS sends spark to the ignitor any time the machine is on ( hot or cold) You should hear the crackle of the ignitor in the burner area. Perhaps the ignitor rods are not properly aligned. Perhaps your ignitor coil is bad. There are several safety switches and the thermostat that would keep the burner from firing if they are bad. There is a pressure switch that turns on and off the motor for hot or cold operation. That is apparently working. I think there is a flow switch that turns off the burner. The thermostat might not be opening and closing contacts and that will keep the burner from working. I believe there is a high temperature safety switch as well.

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I have a 5 Burner Thermador gas cook top SGS305FS and if I am cooking something on the middle burner, and turn on the other burners to cook something else, it seems to take a long time for the other...


You need to have the gas pressure read after the gas valve while in operation to se that the manifold pressure is not below 3.5" wc for nat gas or 11 " wc for propane.

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This si the second time I have had a problem when I changed tanks. It started working the first time but not this time. The tank valve is open and the pressure guage is in the green, until you tirn on...


Many newer grills have a safety feature built in where the valve will not
allow gas to flow if the burner valve is in ON position when the valve on
the tank is opened.

Try this - Shut of all valves, disconnect and then re-connect hose to tank,
turn on valve above LP tank, THEN turn on burner valve, light w/ spark or
match...

This feature can be really frustrating if you don't know it is in
operation...

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2 Answers

After using the grill cartridge for the first time, and then replacing it with the double burner cartridge again, now the fan goes on every time we turn those burners on. This is a grill only feature. ...


There has got to be an interlock that is actuated by inserting the grill into the cooktop. That interlock switch or sensor is probably stuck closed and still is sending the signal to the stove that the grill is being operated, not the burner cartridge. Pull the burners out, insert the grill back into the cooktop a few times feeling for interference or something not seating right. When you find the interlock or sensor, inspect it to see if it is hung up, clean it, adjust it, or tap it lightly. If the switch/sensor is operating properly, reinsert the burners, make sure the fan is turned off, and operate them, checking to see if the fan is now off. If not, there is either a faulty sensor or a fault in the signal line to the control board or in the board itself. But a hung up interlock is what I would be looking for first. Good luck.

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1 Answer

Stove gives off gas smell some times gas co. can't find leak in lines.


Hi,

Forgive me for asking this but are all the burners operating correctly, and nothing has been spilt over them?

Get a qualified engineer to take a look at the operation of the cooker, he needs to have an electronic gas sniffer, and check the control knobs while the burners are running.

Gas companies will check the installation pipework, and upto the appliance, rarely will they test the correct operation of the appliance.

I hope this helps

Steve

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Oven has small explosion igniting and going off. says tj


A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

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Gas stove top burners


Make sure nothing is blocking burner tubes and burner tops. All holes need to be free and clear. If that dont work replace your inlet valve were your gas lin goes in.

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C d burner


This suggests the 'Burn' laser[which is different to the play laser]- has failed. Only way is to replace the device.

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