Question about Avanti DER24CSS-1 Electric Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There has to be a protection system in the burner assembly to cut the supply of gas to the burner if it does not light. For the case of an oven the supply must be cut off immediately if the burner and its pilot go out. For that gas control system to work the burner control must "recognize" with a sensor when the burner is lit and when it is not. Pushing the knob "in" momentarily on this model bypasses the protection system momentarily to allow a burner to be ignited in the first place. If releasing the knob extinguishes the flame the control system is not "seeing" the flame. I tried to find some detail info on you particular ignition system but to no avail so all I can offer is a general approach to these kinds of problems . You need to find and clean or replace the sensor used to detect a flame. It could be an optical one (doubt that) or a temperature flame sensor, a thermocouple sensor, or some other kind I haven't thought of. Fixing this problem involves first determining what kind of sensor it uses. A copy of a service manual for this model can help you determine that. Try to clean the flame detector, and if that doesn't work you have to replace it or the gas control assembly it is a part of. If you have a spark ignition and its not sparking when it should first clean it --carefully--. Spilled food can short them out. Unplug the range before doing this. The owners manual shows it to be under the top burners which can be removed for cleaning this.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
You need to order parts from AVANTI.
Very disappointing customer service.
I have been waiting 6 weeks for a new thermostat. It will not
arrive from China until June -- I was originally told it would come in April. All AVANTI parts are from China and AVANTI in Florida is the
only dealer. I will never buy AVANTI again.
Posted on May 05, 2009
hi, there is an orfice for the oven located on the gas valve. If you are using LP gas, the orfice should be turn down all the way (counter clockwise). If you are using natural gas, the orfice should be turned out about 2-1/2 turns. Was this oven set up to be used with one gas and noe is being used with another? If so, you will need to do more then adjust orfices. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on May 13, 2009
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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