Question about Kenmore Dryers

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I cannot afford a service tech right now to come to the house. I hope you can help me through this service. I have a kenmore elite clothes dryer model # 110.63012101 Dryer was not making any heat. Opened up the lower front and removed all lint from inner tubes. Totally cleaned out exhaust. I replaced the heating element. No heat. I am looking at the wiring diagram and there seems to be two possible culprits. On the bulkhead diagram there is part number 47 which is a non-resettable cutoff-tml for $29.54. Also from the wiring diagram there is a non-resettable thermal fuse which on the bulkhead diagram appears to be part # 59 Thermal Fuse for $18.27. I checked the terminals of the Thermal Fuse for continuity which there is. On the cutoff though there was no continuity. I do not know what the state of continuity should be or if that is even a way to check the part. But I would like advise on how to proceed as both parts are expensive. Thank you for you help Charlesmatthes@yahoo.com

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You're doing the right thing except for changing out the element without reading it out first.when you check the parts make sure the dryer is unpluged and that you pull at least one of the wires off the part you're checking. check the thermostats on the heater box part
279769 which is part 47,also remove the duct that the lint filter slides into and clean it,if you have a long vent line remove it from the back of the dryer and blow it out with a leaf blower and if you have a shop vac put it on blow and blow off the motor and blow all the lint from the back inside of dryer so it blows to the front and vac it up so you don't have to pull the drum if you don't want to.the thermal cutoff pops when it gets to hot in the dryer most likely from a back up in the vent line or the duct,also go outside and make sure the vent is clear,you should be fine

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank You for helping guide my efforts to fix this baby! I Will follow your advice and get back to you."

  • 2 more comments 
  • Charles Horsehoof Oct 04, 2010

    Thank you again and I will try your suggestion in the manner you describe.
    Thanks,
    Chuck

  • Charles Horsehoof Mar 03, 2013

    You are a gem Sal-Thanks for the help!

  • Sal DeAngelo Mar 03, 2013

    glad i could help and thanks for writing back so hopefully someone else can read this and help them too.whenever you're checking a part you can set your meter on say 20k ohms,you'll see a 1 on the meter,touch the leads and you should see anything but 1,always remove at least one of the wires,touch the leads to the part,if you see 1 the part is bad,any other reading it's good.it's that simple,check it a few times,sometimes the leads might not be on the part so it's a good idea to check it again.good luck and good job,glad i could help.

  • Charles Horsehoof Mar 04, 2013

    Awesome to talk shop with a guy named Sal!

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