Question about Kenmore 24932 Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the washer fills but does not agitate or spin, this is usually a symptom of a bad lid switch. The switch will either be located on the right hand side of the washer tub opening, or in the rear on the left hand side under the console. If you have a right hand model, examine the lid and make sure the plunger that activates the switch when it is closed is still intact. The plunger is a plastic piece that is physically mounted on the lid. Sometimes they break off. If the plunger is intact, try taking a small object (like a screwdriver or popsicle stick and push down on the lid switch contact while the lid is open and the timer knob started. You should hear a distinctive "click" when you push on the switch and the washer will agitate. Sometimes the switch can become loose and no longer make good contact. If this is the case, simply tighten the two mounting screws on the tub opening. If the switch relay is not clicking you may need to replace it. The part runs about $35.
If you have the left hand style switch that is enclosed under the console, the contacts are closed by a small metal bar on the back of the lid. Sometimes this bar becomes bent or loose. Open and close the lid and listen for a distinctive "click". If you don't hear anything, you may need to adjust the metal bar, or replace the switch. This style of switch tends to cost a bit more.
If you can provide me with your model number (located under the wash lid along the tub opening), I can research the part number for you and let you know where you can get it and give you step-by-step instructions on how to replace it. This is a simple repair job that the average consumer can perform with simple instructions and a few household tools. First, determine if this is the cause of your problem. Post back with comments and let me know if this helps you.
Posted on Nov 24, 2007
SOURCE: kenmore 70 series
Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.
Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.
Which one is it?
The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:
1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.
NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.
Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.
If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.
If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:
If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:
Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.
Posted on May 15, 2008
Try replacing the motor coupler between the motor and pump three small pieces about 18.00 dollars at sears parts store.
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
SOURCE: how to install lid switch
The symptom of a washer that fills normally, but stops suddenly and will not drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction.
The following link explains how to install a lid switch:
If this is just a matter of reinstalling a switch that has come loose, a new switch may not be required. Inspect to ensure the mounting screws, switch casing, or switch lever are not broken. Make sure the mounting screws are tight. NOTE: You do not have to drain the washer to replace the lid switch. With the switch replaced, the washer will drain on its own. This will save anyone the trouble of having to bail. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
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