Question about Mitsubishi VS-70707 70" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

How to disassemble a VS-70705 for transport

There's 2 large bolts on the sides. I removed them but still can't figure out how to separate the top from the bottom. Any other secret magic screws to loosen?
I'm trying to move this monster and to move it in one piece is near impossible unless you have some NFL players handy to help.

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

I found the problem. Mitsubishi put 2 strips of what looks like rubber caulking inside, presumably to keep the TV from rattling or something. Peel them off from the inside and the top comes off just fine. Both pieces are still very heavy, so its at least a 2 man job moving either piece. Most of the weight seems to be the LDF more than the TV though.

Posted on May 30, 2008

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Shift cable replacement


Most front wheel drive cars nowadays use a series of cables to actuate the transmission gear changes. Because the transmission in front wheel drive cars is mounted transversely rather than longitudinally, it is difficult to come up with an actual mechanical linkage from the gearshift lever to the transmission. Having a cable operated system allows much more flexibility. NOTE: this arraignment is also used in some mid-engine cars, such as the Porsche Boxster.

This system typically works very well, although there is a weak spot in the design. On the MINI, the spherical end joints at the transmission end are held by a rubber mount that can wear out and eventually tear away from the cable. In our case, the rubber surrounding the spherical end on the cable had worn away almost to this point. If it had separated, it could render the gearshift useless. Replacing the cables is well within the reach of the do-it-yourselfer, however you do need to gain access to the underside of the car.

Begin by removing the air filter assembly (See our article on installing a performance intake system for more info). Underneath the lower airbox are the attachment points for the shift cables on the transmission (See Figure 2). Pry off the ball ends of the transmission with a screwdriver. If your cable ends are still good, I would recommend using a forked tool to apply equal pressure to each side of the rubber joint (See Figure 3). Once the ends are disconnected, squeeze the metal clips holding the cable ends into the black plastic holder and pry each cable end out (See Figure 4).

Now jack the car up and place it on jack stands. Refer to our article on jacking up your car for more info. Under the car, you will see the exhaust running down the center of the car. Above the exhaust are a set of heat shields that line the inside of the tunnel. We will need to access the shifter housing which sits right above the center tunnel heat shield. You will need to remove the 10mm body nuts that secure the heat shield to the tunnel (See Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8). There are a total of 8 nuts as well as a small 8mm bolt that secures the center tunnel heat shield at the front of the car (See Figure 9). Now remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield. You don't need to actually remove the oxygen sensor, just the loom going to it (See Figure 10).

The center exhaust pipe is supported near the rear of the center tunnel by two rubber mounts bolted to a bracket. You will need to remove this bracket. There are 6 10mm bolts that secure the bracket to the car and 2 10mm bolts that secure the mounts to the bracket. Remove all of these bolts and rotate the bracket downward to free the exhaust mounts (See Figures 11, 12 and 13).

Next, remove the two 15mm nuts securing the rear exhaust to the catalytic converter. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing (See Figure 14). Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands (See Figure 15).

Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it (See Figure 16). You will now be able to see the two tabs holding the shift cable to the body directly above the catalytic converter. Pry the two rubber grommets holding the cables out of the tabs (See Figure 17).

Follow the cables back to the shifter housing. Now pry the plastic cover off the bottom exposing the cables inside. Pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (See Figure 18). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. You can grab the cable end with some channel locks and give it a good tug downward to yank it off. Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off and pull the cables out of the shift housing and free of the car (See Figure 19 and Figure 20 ). Be sure to remove the small o-rings on the end of the old cables, and slide them onto the new cables.

Now feed the new shift cables through the holes in the shifter housing, (taking care that the small o-rings around the cable retainers seat properly) Refit the cable retainer clips and pop the cable ends onto the new shift lever ball joints and re-fit the shift housing cover. work the other end of the cables up under the subframe to the plastic retainer on the transmission. Clearance will be tight in this area. Now, mount the plastic cable ends into the slots on the side of the retainer until they lock into position (See Figure 21). Now route the rubber grommets on the new cables into the tabs on the body above the catalytic converter. At this point, refit the heat shield and bolt the exhaust back together using a new gasket.

From the top of the car, inside the engine compartment, pop the new cable ends onto the ball joints on the transmission. Now get in the car and work the gearshift, checking that each throw operates smoothly. pic01.jpg
Figure 1Shown here are a set of new shift cables for the MINI Cooper S. Over time, the rubber that surrounds the spherical ends of the cable can wear or even tear loose, rendering the shifter inoperable.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic02.jpg
Figure 2Remove the air filter assembly to access the upper shift cable connection to the transmission.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic03.jpg
Figure 3Use two screwdrivers to pry the spherical ball joints off the connection points at the linkage. BMW specifies the use of a two armed tool to apply equal pressure to either side of the ball joint. With care, the screwdriver method will work. You can also use a an open end wrench to pry the ball joint off.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic04.jpg
Figure 4Once the cable ends are removed, squeeze the metal clips that hold each cable into the plastic retainer and pry them out (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic05.jpg
Figure 5Jack the car up, place it on jack stands and remove the 10mm body nuts that secure the heat shield to the center tunnel. Remove the nuts shown here on the driver's front side (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic06.jpg
Figure 6Shown here are the body nuts to be removed on the passenger front side. (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic07.jpg
Figure 7Moving down the center of the car, remove the body nuts in the middle (green arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic08.jpg
Figure 8Keep moving towards the rear of the car and remove the body nuts towards the rear of the shield.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic09.jpg
Figure 9Don't forget to remove the small 8mm screw securing the front of the heat shield right above the catalytic converter.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic10.jpg
Figure 10Remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield (green arrow).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic11.jpg
Figure 11Remove the six 10mm bolts holding the exhaust mount bracket to the body (green arrows) as well as the two 10mm bolts securing the exhaust mounts to the bracket (yellow arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic12.jpg
Figure 12Once you rotate the bracket down, you can see how the exhaust mounts hook inside at one end. (green arrows). Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic13.jpg
Figure 13Rotate the bracket down further and move the exhaust mounts to release them from them. Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic14.jpg
Figure 14Next, remove the two 15mm nuts securing the rear exhaust to the catalytic converter. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing. Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic15.jpg
Figure 15Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic16.jpg
Figure 16Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it. Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic17.jpg
Figure 17Up above the heat shield are the two tabs that hold the shift cables in place (green arrows). Pry out the cables to free them from the center tunnel.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic18.jpg
Figure 18Now, pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 14mm open end wrench in between the cable end and the ball joint to pry it off to the side (yellow arrow). The other cable end is a bit harder to remove because of the rotation of the shift lever and also as it's difficult to find a fulcrum point to pry it off. I grabbed the cable end with some channel locks and gave it a good tug downward (green arrow). Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off (fuchsia arrows).Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic19.jpg
Figure 19Once loose, pull the shift cable retaining clips down and off.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic20.jpg
Figure 20Slide the shift cables back and out of the shift housing. Don't forget to remove the small seals on the end of each cable and fit them to the new cables.Large Image ' Extra-Large Imagepic21.jpg
Figure 21Feed the new cable ends up through the engine compartment into the black plastic retainer and pop them both into place (green arrows). Large Image ' Extra-Large Image

Oct 29, 2013 | TRANSMISSION Mini Cooper 2002 02 2003 03...

1 Answer

How to replace radiator 96 Toyota land cruiser


- Remove battery and tray (12mm bolts x 8, 10mm battery and ground. maybe 13mm for tray if some previous guy got confused).
- Remove fan from thermo (4x12mm) and shroud from radiator (2x12mm).
- Remove top small hose with pliers
- Remove bottom large hose with pliers
- Remove top large hose with pliers
- Remove two trans line hoses, and snake them up high so they don't leak anymore fluid
- Remove lower bolts near frame (13mm gear wrench) on DS ONLY
- Remove top side bolts from DS ONLY radiator frame (2 x 13mm).
- Remove PS center bushing horizontal bolt thru the front of the grill (12mm - 8in extension with wobbly and 12mm socket while vice grip the bolt on the engine side)
- Remove 12mm long vertical bolt from PS only (you are going to leave the DS frame in the truck and pull the PS frame out with the rad). Move the PS frame toward the rear of the truck, and remove/install.

Engine Chip

Nov 16, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Trying seperate the base from the top for moving


they do not seperate because the base is where the color guns are located so that is why you cannot remove it.

Feb 26, 2011 | Mitsubishi VS-70705 70" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

I am trying to replace the starter in my 86 nissan stanza but cant see it


NISSAN STANZA WAGON - Manual Transmission


Q. Where is the starter on a 1986 nissan stanza station wagon and how do you get to it ?


Due to limited access to the starter, it is recommended that the transaxle be removed when servicing the starter.

REMOVAL:

1. Cold vehicle.

Remove 2 mounting bracket bolts, 10 & 12 mm (Figure 1).

Remove top starter motor bolt 14 mm with universal & long extensions.

Raise vehicle on hoist.

Remove front splash pans 10 mm.

Automatic transmission: Drain 2 qts out.

Remove rt-ft wheel 21 mm., & tie rod (Figure 3), axle cap, cotter pin, adj-nut & rubber washer.

Remove ball joint nuts 17 mm., left lower control arm 19mm. & swaybar bracket 14 mm. (Fig 2).

Remove axle nut 36mm (Figure 4), the front tube, catalytic converter heat insulators 10mm, ctr ex-tube 17 mm., and front tube from exhaust system (Figure 5).

Remove long bolt from ft engine mount (next to radiator), 17mm socket (Figure 6, Item A).

Remove tension rod mount 14 mm. Has adj-bracket with rubber insulators (Fig 6, Items B, C).

Remove right side drive shaft bolts that hold shaft to bracket mounted on engine (Fig7) 12mm.

Remove rt-driveshaft.

CAUTION: Transaxle side seals are cut by spline teeth.

Install hoist type transmission jack and wooden block under the transmission/engine. Be certain the transmission is safely balanced on the hoist.

Remove 5 engine crossmember mounts (3 bolts, 2 nuts) 14mm.

Remove nut that attaches crossmember to engine mount.

Loosen stabilizer bar mounts to allow adequate clearance for crossmember to be removed.

Remove following brackets to allow starter assembly to pass through bottom:

tubular support bracket - engine to transaxle

angled support bracket - driveshaft bracket to engine mount

manifold collector stay - (bottom bolts)

Loosen top bolts, remove bracket above driveshaft-holding bracket 14mm.

NOTE: This bracket is slotted to allow it to slide out without completely removing the bolts.

Remove bottom starter motor mounting bolt.

Separate starter assembly from bellhousing, DC all cables/connectors, remove starter motor.

When installing starter, connect cable, install/torque starter bolts.

Nov 03, 2010 | 1986 Nissan Stanza

1 Answer

What causes the image on the screen to jitter


Sounds like bad convergence ICs. They are complicated to replace but a good tech should be able to do it for about $100. Let me know how this works out.

hardrocko

Jan 31, 2010 | Mitsubishi VS-70705 70" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

How do i disassemble my ws-65313 for transport


Good Day,
To disassemble this TV follow these directions:
1). Pull front speaker grill off
2). Unplug the 2 cables connectors in front
3). Remove 4 screws on both sides of cabinet (might have plastic covers)
4). Carefully lift cabinet top until the support tabs clear the bottom cabinet
5). Carefully rotate the cabinet top and place back side on floor ( the mirror is on the top side)
6). Pack/wrap properly with blankets and transport in this manner.

Good Luck and Move, Big Irish.

Dec 02, 2009 | Mitsubishi WS-65313 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

93 buick park ave Ultra. replacing water pump...must I remove the front passenger side motor mount??


Yes. Put a jack under the motor and remove 3 bolts from side of engine and the long center pivot bolt in mount and the 2 bolts that go top down into the frame and loosen the 2 bolts below mount. Jack up the motor until you can separate the mount, leaving the engine side in and removing the frame side. The engine side can be moved out of the way without completely removing.

May 06, 2009 | 1993 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

Installing transport bolts


yes there is you best to remove the 3 screws holding the top on slide back remove then you can move the drum around usley have someone pull up install bolt

Feb 28, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Samsung HCN653W Transport


the bottom stand seperates from the top screen portion. On the side under the top potion you will see 4 black phillips head screws on each side. Remove those. Also there is a small access panel on the right side ( if your facing the tv ). There are 2 screws there, remove them , and look inside , you will see 3 plugs. Unplug them. Once you have done all this, have someone help you and lift the top portion off.

Mar 17, 2007 | Samsung HCN653W 65" Rear Projection...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Mitsubishi VS-70707 70" Rear Projection Television Logo

Related Topics:

267 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Mitsubishi Televison & Video Experts

matt martin
matt martin

Level 3 Expert

1213 Answers

The Knight
The Knight

Level 3 Expert

74459 Answers

Jaime Hernandez

Level 3 Expert

2318 Answers

Are you a Mitsubishi Televison and Video Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...