Question about True 72 cu. ft. / 2039 liter Commercial Freezer T-72F

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My freezer build up ice on top behind the fan , temperature stay 30 Fnever get down to level it suppose to, i did turn of and let it thaw then plug it in again , it appear have the same prolems, please help

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Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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1 Answer

Is my defrost timer broken or my thermostat? The freezer was holding -30 temp but now is at +30.


Is the compressor running? If not - the timer could be stuck in defrost mode. If it is ruinning, then the freezer coil should be cold. If it is choked with frost & ice - then the defrost heater isn't getting powered (bad timer or defrost terminator - or is getting powered but has burned out.

You should allow the ice and frost to melt completely before turning back on again. Typically ice and frost don't build up so bad in a few days time to cause the temperature rise you're describing If getting cold - the compressor and refrigerant is likely OK, if not the defrost circuit is suspect. If compressor running but not getting cold - a refrigerant leak / charge level may be causing the problem.

May 18, 2015 | Arctic Air 22 cu. ft. Commercial Freezer...

1 Answer

FFB6187


Try rearranging all items inside fridge and freezer so that air may circulate around all items easily and then check seals on doors and ensure doors are closed completely and not leaking cold air. Also do a complete thaw/ defrost. You can remove the plastic coverings and ensure all ice is defrosted. Using a hair dryer will speed up thawing/defrosting process.

Nov 06, 2013 | Freezers

1 Answer

Samsung Refrigerator with bottom freezer model # RB195BSBB freezer will not hold temperature. There is a fan running a loud and constantly, and freezer will work it's way down to 8 degrees but will not get...


Check for ice build-up in and around the freezer fan where the blades are, if you can see ice in there (some times it may look like white foam but dont be fooled, it will be ice), the fan will be hitting it, defrost the freezer and check defrost element, (you will have to dismantle freezer section to get to it but reletively simple job) disconect from mains first. Good luck

Dec 18, 2010 | Samsung Freezers

1 Answer

Frigidaire Freezer, model # FFU20FC6AW3. Unit is not cooling and the fan motor inside behind the access panel is not running. My Temperature Alarm sounds and will not shut off, unless I switch it to the...


if the evap fan is not turning try to turn it by hand a few times then start you freezer if it does not turn it needs to be replaced.make sure there is no ice build up on the evap coils.alos check the continuity of the defrost heater below the evap coils.once you het teh fan replace your unit should cool down to the proper temps.

Nov 16, 2010 | Frigidaire Freezer Refrigeration White...

1 Answer

Thick ice build up behind freezer fan


check door rubber,if is oblate heat it with fan,if it is ragged change it.

Jun 29, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

I have a 4yr old 13.7 cubic upright frigidare freezer. Running all the time, I defrosted it recently (only minimal frost/ice on base behind basket) after noting top shelf warmer than others and food...


Hi, Put a thermometer in the freezer and see if it gets down to 0 to 5 above zero. If it is not getting that cold, something is wrong. If you had frost building up behind the rear panel, there is a defrost problem.
Please let me know the temperature and I can assist you further.

Vic

Jun 20, 2009 | Frigidaire 20.6 cu. ft. / 583 liter...

1 Answer

Amana freezer on the bottom not keeping temperature


Hi, If you had ice, there is a drain plugged in the freezer. If you had a frost build up, there is a problem with the automatic defrost.

I can help in either case. Please let me know if you need more assistance.
Thakns
Vic

May 13, 2009 | Nor-Lake Freezer Norlake Refrigeration 6'...

2 Answers

BEKO AB910 Frost Free Fridge/Freezer Ice build up


I have the same model + problem. You should not need to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you describe is probably due to a blocked pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to prevent recurrence.

Behind the upper freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille (full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the back). Your problem is too much ice blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades' down the back behind the bottom drawer.

When you manually defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.

I have found that the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start up without warning]

Check how much of the pipe is blocked by gentle probing with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This measurement is important…

When the pipe is clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney' rather than upwards.

There's no point steaming the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney' has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.

It's perfectly feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.

Don't forget to replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been defrosting.

Take a lot of care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.

Some of these tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting) so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath the freezer.

Apr 23, 2009 | Freezers

2 Answers

Fan in freezer very loud noise


There is probably an ice build up behind the plastic rear panel. The ice build up gets so thick that eventually, it obstructs the fan and then you get that loud noise as the tips of the fan are chipping away at the ice.
What you need to do is to remove the rear panel and thaw the ice build up. To remove the rear panel is usually only 2 screws at the bottom.....you will find that the panel is difficult to remove due to ice build up behind it, so gentle heat from a hairdryer is a good way to accelerate the thawing process....once the panel is removed, you will see the ice build up......mine was about 2 inches thick!!!
I used the hairdryer to thaw it all out and then once cleared, switched it back on and have never had a problem since.
By the way, my F?F is a Beko CDA563FS......the one with the water dispenser on the front and frost free.
Hope this helps

Feb 01, 2009 | Freezers

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