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Tube for pressure switch sits outside drum and needs air pressure to activate the switch.you may find the water has entered the tube thus reducing the effective air pressure required to activate water level indicator.simply take top off washer and locate the tube , drain the machine via the drain tube near the penny trap before pulling off the rubber hose which comes from bottom of drum and drain out any water from tube, reconnect tube and the air that is now in the tube will compress as the water level rises to the point where it activates the switch.if still not fixed maybe need to replace pressure switch which is obtainable off eBay from various online sellers.
These are the fault codes for whirpool. The noise problem is what is bothering me.You can pull the bottom front panel, three screws and see if you have a problem with the wiring harness to the motor, also remove the clean out filter on the water pump and clean that out,(large 3 to 4inch diameter white plastic screw almost dead center and to the left of the pump motor). I would also pull remove the backing plate and check where the drum pulley attaches to the shaft, see if it is broken or makes noise as you turn it. You may see water or brown streaks coming from the bottom of the main bearing shaft assembly, This is a major repair. l would recommend you have a technician check this out, you may have a bad main bearing assembly, bad motor, or bad pump (unlikely) but you need a technician for most of these. I have also seen a sock between the inner and outer drum, causing the drum not to spin up to speed. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
The filter has a T handle on the front of it twist it to the left a quarter turn and pull it out.save the handle on the front end of the old filter it slides off and goes back on the new one.reverse the process to install the new one.
Once installed use a large wide mouth glass to bleed the air out of the system and fill the new filter with water,but hold the glass up close to the spigot because the air pushes the water out fast and it has a tendency to splatter.
IT sounds like you have a roller that is broken or the drum is off track...when a roller breaks or the support bracket that the roller is attached to has a screw loose and has shifted position and I surmise based on your description that the front left roller is affected or the drum is off track up toward the front of the dryer...that would make the front of the drum drop creating the situation you described. The only way to get to this problem depending on the brand...is to remove the top of the dryer...or the back of the dryer...and remove the drum...to access the rollers.....be careful to observe closely how the belt is attached to the spring loaded arm (tensioner) that keeps the belt tight...and replace it the way it came out. Any problems get back to me and I can walk anyone with good mechanical skills through exactly what to do.
Hi: Simple. Every Amana refrigerator I've seen in the last 15-20 years have brakes. In front of your wheels is a rubber disc that screws down to stop the fridge from rolling forward when you open it. You have to screw them back up a little to make it roll. If you look at your grill you will see that it is flat all the way across except for the ends they protrude forward at the ends. They usually cover the brakes. Work at the grill to find the clips that hold it in place. It will snap off. The reason for putting you through that; is the energy efficiecy, The seals work so well that you would pull the fridge forward when opening. That should work, Jeff
pull the power plug for 15 minutes, then plug back in...same problem? tried adjusting temperature control knob (thermostat)? if yes to both questions, freon has escaped out of loop or faulty thermostat. Attempt force start of compressor with jumper clips: pull the power plug then find the two wires into motor and apply 120 VAC from jumper clips. If it spins, then faulty thermostat.