Question about Nikon N75 35mm SLR Camera

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Developing film how do you dev the pics afta you tke em im just starting off and dont know how to do it

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  • Anonymous Jan 19, 2009

    WOW I have the SAME problem?? I've only ever used digital and just plain don't know how to get them peechures oudda dat chamera.

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You need a whole bunch of chemicals, paper, equipment and some kind of dark room, plus an enlarger. This is all quite expensive, I suggest you concentrate on figuring out how to take the photos for a bit before you learn to develop your own.

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

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Error e000000 0007,error e000000 00024


the first error e0007 is due to fixing .u have to check fixing if ur a rep then replace the fixing film. the second e0024 is due to developer assembly .check the connector to the dev assy.try to check the toner hopper whether it is supplying the toner to developer assy.

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My equipment: N75, 28-80, 70-210, 50fixed. I generally use Ilford 100 or 400 b & w films. I seem to have a - recurring - problem with the end result. The pictures are severally grainy, irregular...


The grainy nature of the picture is nothing to do with the camera. Do you develop your own film? If you don't and you are paying for processing, find a new processing house! If you are; the problem is reticulation. In any case the 400 ASA negative film will be more grainy that the 100 ASA. Both will benefit from some thoughtful processing. Key points that will help are: Do not over-develop or "push" the film. Pushing is leaving the film in the developer for longer than the recommended time (on the instructions in with the developer chemica)l. Pushing will increase the effective film speed by a controlled amount, but will always increase grain size, some times worth the price. BUT... the most common reason for graininess when not "pushing" film is reticulation. This is caused by the simple mistake of washing the film after developing and fixing (hopefully at 20 degrees C), in cold tap water. The sudden temperature change causes the grains to join up (Reticulate, just like a giraffe!) into bigger grains. Not reversible. Just do the wash stage in water that is the same temperature as the developer and the fixer. Of course the wash or stopper between dev and fix can cause the same problem... same answer, have everything at 20 degC. The irregular patches (dark on the negative) will be caused by insufficient agitation during development. The tank should be inverted every few seconds, or if in a commercial dev line, it should have nitrogen gas agitation every few seconds. Usually what happens is the dev house runs out of nitrogen but doesn't realise it has. If you can post a sample of your pictures I can be more accurate with a diagnosis, or email some to me at david@dtmpower.com

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My meter won't work even with new batteries?


I have Nikon EM myself and I have an issue with meter myself. First, the camera won't start metering unless your film counter is at 1 position. So, you have to advance couple of frames in order to have the camera start metering. Second, my unit will show metering information when I press the shutter half way IF I have not advanced the film to the next frame. As soon as I advance the film and ready to take the pic, the meter needle drops and won't show any information. This is caused by the aperture arm of the camera dropping a little bit from it's initial position as soon as you advance the frame. Funny thing is that the camera will continue to meter and make correct exposure, just without the information displayed.

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1 Answer

Printer shows worn dev unit what is this please


The dev unit (developer) is the part that the ink toner cartridge fits into, one for each colour (K-black, C-cyan, Y-yellow, M-magenta). Two things wear out on dev units, the bearings at each end of the developer roller or the roller itself. The roller is made of metal and is magnetised so a thin film of toner sticks to it, the magnet is recharged by electrical "rubbing" contacts inside the printer as the drum rotates. Gradually the contacts rub away and so the roller loses its magnetism, this will be noticed by an increasing amount of toner being spilled inside the printer. The roller bearings speak for themselves, gradually the roller will become more & more difficult to turn smoothly and so the toner will not be evenly distributed. The only way to fix this is to replace the worn dev units although cleaning the contacts will help to preserve their life.

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1 Answer

Nikon EM (1979?) Won't wind film, photos don't come out


Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.

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I can even reach the "service mode".
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2 Answers

Film developing clear


Hello

This problem could have a number of causes,

To check to see if it is a camera fault of developing fault you could try using a cheap colour film in the camera and getting it developed at a normal photo processor.
This will determine in which half of the process the fault lies.
If the pictures from the colour film are the same then it must be a camera usage problem or fault.
If the pictures are ok from the colour film then it will be a problem in either the film being used, developing problem (poor mix of chemicals etc).

This will just speed up the diagnosis a bit.

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