Question about Whirlpool GHW9200L Front Load Washer

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For the Whirlpool GHW9200 washer, can the spindle on the back of the stainless steel basket be replaced without buying the entire basket assembly? The spindle broke free (due to corrosion) from the three-armed casting. The front half of the tub suffered catastrophic damage, so the cost of the basket assembly and tub half costs ~ $600. Looks like the wife will get a new machine if the spindle assembly is not available san basket. Unfortunately the Whirlpool parts list does not show the spindle assembly...just the entire basket. Thanks!

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  • brian-FL Sep 29, 2010

    Thanks for the prompt response. It looks like the wife gets a new machine...bummer.

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Sorry.
You gotta get the whole thing.

Posted on Sep 28, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for the prompt response. Looks like a new machine for the wife...bummer."

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From what i have seen it all one part

Posted on Sep 28, 2010

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My GE washer, Model WCVH6260FWW, is making loud squeaking noises when it spins. The drum does not seem to be properly supported. It is dragging along the bottom of the rim when it spins.


Have the exact same problem as you are writing about and have researched to the point that I know more about front load washers than I ever wanted to. Mine does the same, the basket (stainless steel) doesn't look centered in the unit anymore, you can tell when looking around the perimeter of the basket and compare to the rubber gasket. On front load washers the basket (the stainless piece that spins), if the door is open and if you push up on the basket there should be very very little to NO play or give . Meaning the basket should not be able to move up, down, side to side (not talking about spinning, just north, south, east, west). If there is play or movement, which in the case of mine it is flopping all over the place there is a very good chance (thinking 95% sure) that it is the bearing. Not good news for any front washer but GE in all it's wisdom set it's crack engineers out to design this unit so that the bearing is not an individual part, this design has the basket (THE ACTUAL STAINLESS BASKET), THE SUPPORT ROD AND BEARINGS AS A SINGLE PIECE. Totally idiotic and such a poor design I have to believe that it was done this way in order to ensure future sales of new units or high repair costs. The "Basket Assembly" alone is between $550 and $650, before tax, before labor if you don't do it yourself. If you decided to tackle this yourself their crack engineers designed it to where you have to totally disassemble the entire unit to replace it. No exaggeration, you literally have to take the entire outer tub assembly apart to replace and the outer tub assembly is heavy (may not be a one person job). If you are able to accomplish this without damaging any other part then you have to Humpty Dumpty back together again, without damaging anything else.
I was able to find the service manual online for this unit and if the part wasn't 75% of the cost of the entire unit I might try to repair it myself and I consider myself mechanically self sufficient. If you don't have the service manual, the correct tools or have a short tolerance level for these things then forget it, let alone the price.
Had to vent a little. I could have made this post much shorter and just said, **** design, problem is probably the bearing, their design has this piece part of the entire basket assembly, cost $600+ part only, degree of difficulty to repair 9 (out of 10, a 10 would be building the unit from pieces found at a scrap yard), punt and think about a new unit.
Really irritates me that a washer can be 5 or 6 years old and if this happens you are really screwed. Now I know what to look for in a new unit and to check into how the thing is designed just in case a bearing goes out in the future you don't get left up the river as you we are with this unit.
Hope this helps.

Jul 20, 2012 | GE WCVH6260F Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE WCVH6260Fww knocks during spin


Had the same GE model number and similar problem. The basket (stainless steel) doesn't look centered in the unit anymore, you can tell when looking around the perimeter of the basket and compare to the rubber gasket. On front load washers the basket (the stainless piece that spins), if the door is open and if you push up on the basket there should be very very little to NO play or give . Meaning the basket should not be able to move up, down, side to side (not talking about spinning, just north, south, east, west). If there is play or movement there is a very good chance (thinking 95% sure) that it is the bearing. Not good news for any front washer but GE in all it's wisdom set it's crack engineers out to design this unit so that the bearing is not an individual part, this design has the basket (THE ACTUAL STAINLESS BASKET), THE SUPPORT ROD AND BEARINGS AS A SINGLE PIECE. The "Basket Assembly" alone is between $550 and $650, before tax, before labor if you don't do it yourself. If you decided to tackle this yourself you have to totally disassemble the entire unit to replace it. No exaggeration, you literally have to take the entire outer tub assembly apart to replace. If you are able to accomplish this without damaging any other part then you have to Humpty Dumpty back together again, without damaging anything else. Hope this helps.

Nov 23, 2011 | GE WCVH6260F Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Can you replace just the rear bearing on a frigidaire "gallery" series front loading washer without having to replace the rear drum half as well. if so where can i buy just the bearing?


Hi, Welcome to FixYa. I theory...yes it can be done. The problem lyes in 1) finding just the bearing & seal... and 2) the shaft of the inner stainless steel basket is likely going to be badly worn or "scored" as a result of the bearing failing. I always replace the entire assembly, but if the bearing and seal where available seperately it would still require the inner basket and a complete tear-down and just as much labour ( or more likely ) it is less expensive to do the complete assembly. I'll leave that with you, let me know if I can assist you further. Macmarkus :)

Aug 30, 2010 | Frigidaire GLTF2940E Gallery 3.5 Cu. Ft....

1 Answer

Loud noise during spin cycle even when I rotate manually - loose


ok, from the sound of things you're not going to like me any better when i get done than you did previously.. :)
if you can move the clothes tub/basket (stainless steel with lots of holes in it) not only around in a circle, but forward and backwards, and i assume diagonally kinda/sorta also within the constrains of the outer plastic tub/shell u gots big problems!!
within the plastic outer shell that keeps the water in containment, and houses/contains the bearing and seal assembly, would normally rotate a 3 armed spindle to which that stainless clothes basket is attached, those attachment points were prone to fail!!! especially if you live where you have acidic water which attacks the pot metal spindle assembly within 2 or 3 years, sometimes a little longer but usually just out of "warranty" unfortunately. now be warned or happy depending on how your warranty is worded that some of those "electrolux/frigidaire" manufactured kenmore appliances came with a 10 year "part" warranty on that same stainless steel clothes basket, and if that has defected and destroyed the bearings within that rear tub half then sears in their infinite wisdom should and will "when pressured" replace them both as one led to the destruction of the other. the labor to change them would fall on your shoulders and i'm not sure what they are charging for that level of repair now.
if u had to buy those parts you are talking about approximately $170 for the rear tub half w/bearing, and $200 for the inner stainles steel basket..
if you've never changed one of these before plan on around 5 hours, 2 bandaids, and lots of patience as the bolts that hold the tub together are only available from the front yet you'll be doing most of your wiggling from the rear.. save the foam blocks that the tub half come with for shims/spacers to hold the front tub half up with once u remove the shocks and springs ;)
have fun, and best of luck to ya..

May 24, 2010 | Kenmore 43042 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Will not spin fast, only goes cw and ccw at medium speed during spin cycle


I took the stainless steel basket out and found the aluminum spider to be rotted. The basket was dragging and that made the motor overload.
I made up a stainless steel plate, took the original shaft and pressed it in.

Re-assembled and now is fine

Nov 14, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I need to remove the aggitator to remove the inner basket? maybe?


YOU SHOULD HAVE A SPANNER WRENCH TO REMOVE IT BUT IF YOU HAVE A SMALL MONKEY WRENCH AND ENOUGH MUSCLE YOU CAN REMOVE IT

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yes match it up from the one off of your other spindle and or take the sample to a hardware store and find something close that would do the job for you

May 03, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer

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sounds like you have a broken stantion on the back of the basket.you can confirm this by opening the door and trying to pull up on the stainless steel basket.if it pushes up and flops back down,that is what you have.if the mach is over 2yrs old,look in your manual under warranty.if it has a 10yr on stainless steel basket and lifetime on tub,you will only have to pay for labor on repair.if it only has 1yr on entire mach,est would be higher than the price of a new one.

Sep 23, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

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A loose inner drum usually indicates a failed rear tub bearing. The only solution is to replace the rear half of the tub. (which contains the bearing).... You can check if the pulley nut has come loose by removing the rear panel. There is a large nut that retains the belt pulley to the shaft of the basket.

Jun 04, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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