I have an old Olsen overhead heater (older than 1979). I installed a new fan motor ,but I didn't properly identify the power connections. I know that the white wire goes to white and black to black so the motor spins in the proper direction, but now I have an unconnected wire from the 110 volt power supply from the house. In the junction box I have three black wires that come from the heat exchanger, two wires from the motor, two wires from a relay, and the two 110 wires from the breaker panel. The three wires from the exchanger go, one to the 110 white (Never disconnected), one to the black relay (Never disconnected), one to the black on the motor (Disconnected). The white relay goes to the white motor (Disconnected). Where does the black 110 go? It seems tarnished like it wasn't connected, not corroded, just kind of dirty.

Ya probably the fan switch that you mentioned if u know how to use a multimeter get one thst way you dont buy parts u dont need if u dont know how to use one or what a multimeter is probably cheaper to call an expert

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steve_e294c1922e4bed38

Please watch the video. How to repair pull chain light switch in ceiling fan

Single Phase Terminal Markings Identified By Color: (NEMA Standards) 1-Blue 5-Black P1-No color assigned 2-White 6-No color assigned P2-Brown 3-Orange 7-No color assigned 4-Yellow 8-Red

Lets start at the battery. Disconnect the negative cable then the positive double stacked cables. Is there any corrosion? Check between both positive cables. Scrape clean with wire brush or old knife. Add wheel bearing grease to seal out air & reassemble. That is where the common of both circuits are.

Here is a blower motor simple check list.
Hit the bottom of the blower motor. It's located under glove box. you will need to remove a insulation panel to get to the metal of the motor. Tap it a few times with the fan setting on high & in the vent position with the engine running. Did it start? Then motor brushes are bad & fan motor needs replaced. If fan still does not operate wiggle wiring at the motor and the area of the blower motor resistor that is a few inches away from the motor. Could be a bad connection (usually melted) Then it will need a resistor, new wire harness end and blower motor for a permanent repair.

Chris
ASE Master Certified sense 1979

Used, Reliance 805 is power vent gas
10 year old water heater that is newly installed.
Unknown gas control valve.
I'm not a fan of installing old power vent water heaters.
Usually these things are so expensive that old one is only replaced when it fails.

120Volt Outlet must have correct polarity and unit must be grounded between ground prong on cord to manifold tube connected to bottom of gas control valve. Test for continuity with multimeter.

Is this an early FV model with air intake located on bottom?
If air intake is clogged with dust, then combustion chamber overheated and tripped FV system. The older heaters need replacement parts and new gas control valve, or entire heater must be replaced.

Replace gas control valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-replace-water-heater-gas-valve.pdf

Copy following link for gas control troubleshoot by type of gas control.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent

Post question on Tank forum with more information about type of air intake and gas control valve and history of water heater
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The missing terminal would be a 'ground' usually apart from the other two. The blue should be hot(black on reinstall)yellow neutral(white on install) ground is green.Older electrics dealt with two wire hookups. Grounds connect to the motor metal body proper.

Before attempting any of these recommendations, First disconnect all the power sources and check your wiring diagrams on the motor and condensing unit.
On the old capacitor if you look on the top near each of the three terminals. Are they marked, fan - C - herm? If they are that is a dual capacitor and that needs to stay because that is also your compressor capacitor.
The Red wire from the conductor is Run and it's connected to C on the old capacitor.
Follow the Yellow wire and see if it goes to the S or start terminal on the compressor, if it does then that is the Start wire for your compressor and it connects to herm on the capacitor.
For the fan motor a lot of times the wiring connections are printed on the motor label.
Check the label, Purple should be run and connect to C on the old capacitor.
Black should be Common and it connects to the opposite side of the contactor as the Red wire. If the Red wire connects to T1 then the Black wire connects to T2.
The Brown wire shoud be the start wire on the fan motor and it connects to the Fan terminal on the old capacitor.
Now if you want to use the new fan capacitor. Take the Purple wire from the motor and look for any marks (red paint or a dash) on or beside the terminals on the new capacitor. If there is an identifying mark then connect the Purple wire to that terminal, if no marks you can connect it to either terminal. Then you need a jumper wire from C on the old capacitor to the purple side of the new capacitor. Then take the brown wire and connect it to opposite terminal of the new capacitor.

If this is the old style limit/fan switch. Turn power off
remove the wires and label where they got disconnected from and wire the new one in. Make note of the settings on the old limit switch so you can
adjust the new one. The limit switches come in
different lengths so get the right one.

If it is a flat bimetal disc, then I think you have only to
wires that have to be connected so hook up same
to wires from the old one. With Bimetal disc fan
limits you need to make sure you get the same
temperature reading as the old one

now, why am not surprised..it may take some time..you pretty handy with tools? also, turn off the box, and let
let it discharge for a while..

The two terminal cap is only for the new fan motor. Connect the compressor wire back where you found it, on the 3 terminal cap. It's the terminal marked, "herm". The "common" terminal on the 3 terminal cap must still be connected to one side of the 220 power at the contactor. One side of the 220 goes to the common on the compressor. The other side of the 220 goes to the run winding on the compressor AND the common terminal on the 3 terminal capacitor.