Question about Viking DMOC205SS Microwave Oven

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My DMOS200 had a secondary interlock switch problem which I could push on the door to make it run. After I wedged a piece of paper at the bottom of the door, it cooked for a time, then completely died. I've replaced the secondary interlock switch and the monitor fuse. Now the light will come on but the display and keypad don't respond. Can the noise filter be the problem or is it just a dead control?

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Microwave jes1142


If the timer counts down and nothing else happens, the secondary interlock switch is bad. This switch completes the cook circuit and this is why it doesn't run. You need an ohm meter to diagnose and find the right switch. Switch failure is caused by opening the door when it is in cook mode. Push the stop button first before opening the door and this failure will cease to occur. BE CAREFUL !!

Oct 09, 2013 | GE JES1142SJ Microwave Oven

1 Answer

RUNNING WHILE DOOR OPEN


This is a bad door switch. You need an ohm meter to prove that the bad switch is 'opening' and 'closing' when it is supposed to. Sounds like the secondary interlock switch is stuck 'closed' when the door is open

Aug 24, 2013 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

1 Answer

The timer in my microwave runs down but the microwave will not come on. It's a DCS model # MO24SS


Your problem is almost certainly a bad secondary interlock (bottom door switch) or its mount.

See this text file on door switches.

The DCS MO24SS is essentially a rebranded Sharp R-530ES, just like the Dacor DMO2420S.

So the Dacor DMO2420 service manual (online here) will help you disassemble it and check it out.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Jun 21, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Hi - I have a Sharp Carousel w/ Convection R-930CS-F that sounds like it running but is not cooking and the turntable is not rotating. Any ideas? Thanks!


That would be a failed secondary interlock (bottom door switch) or possibly the switches mount.

We have the service manual and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

Also see this text file on door switches.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Dec 04, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Mod. R-1492 ''Pushed start button and nothing happens ' ????


This is almost certainly a failed secondary interlock (bottom door switch).

We have the service manuals that cover this and have uploaded them to our site to help you.

They are here and here.

Also see the very handy text file on door switches here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Dec 02, 2010 | Sharp Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Re. Viking DMOS200 1100 watts microwave oven does not turn on


I'm guessing that's a VMOS200?

If so, that's a rebranded Sharp R-530ES (as is the Dacor DMO2420S) and its secondary interlock (bottom door switch) or that switch's mount is bad.

See this file on door switches. If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

The Sharp R-530E service manual will aid you in disassembly and it is here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Jul 02, 2010 | Viking DMOS200 1100 Watts Microwave Oven

1 Answer

My Dacor DMT2420 fan, light and turtable motor run continuously when the door is open. I have unplugged the unit to reset it with no help, another on-line forum expert suggested checking the door switches...


If the cooling fan, light and turntable run continuously when the door is open, but not when it is closed, your secondary interlock (bottom door switch) is shorted (always on).

Even if it's shorted, the actuator button (usually red) will still move up and down when you open and close the door.

It will need a new door switch.

See the service manual here. See our file on door switches here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Jan 04, 2010 | Dacor DMT2420SS Microwave Oven

1 Answer

GE JVM1440 doesn't work, appears to be the primary interlock


I would refer you back to my solution here. It has links for ordering parts, and it talks about securing your door switch to its mount, etc. You may need to realign things, too.

We have the service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

It will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, troubleshooting tips, and part numbers.

You will need the
free Acrobat Reader to view or print it in case you don't have it already.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Mar 01, 2009 | GE JVM1440 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Do you test your commercial microwaves for leakage? What standards do you comply with as far as allowable leakage?


As per a similar manual:

1. Microwave leakage limit (Power density limit): The power density of microwave radiation emitted by a microwave oven should not exceed 1mW/cm2 at any point 5cm or more from the external surface of the oven, measured prior to acquisition by a purchaser, and thereafter (through the useful life of the oven), 5 mW/cm2 at any point 5cm or more from the external surface of the oven.

2. Safety interlock switches: Primary interlock relay and door sensing switch shall prevent microwave radiation emission in excess of the requirement as above mentioned, secondary interlock switch shall prevent microwave radiation emission in excess of 5 mW/cm2 at any point 5cm or more from
the external surface of the oven.

You need to be sure that if the meter comes with a styrofoam cone tip, that should be installed or it will give high readings.

Also, the meter should be calibrated periodically, typically annually.

If the meter gets dropped or bumped, that may throw it out of alignment.

The most common causes of excessive leakage are loose or misaligned door switch mounts or hinges and physical damage to the chassis of the oven.

The most common cause of the misalignment of door switch mounts is slamming the door.

I would be sure my meter is set up and calibrated, then I would be sure my door switch mounts are aligned & tightened properly.

From a similar manual:

1. Disconnect the power supply cord, and then remove outer case.

2. Open the door and block it open.

3. Discharge high voltage capacitor. If the door sensing switch, secondary interlock switch and monitor switch do not operate properly due to a misadjustment, the following adjustment should be made.

4. Loosen the two (2) screws holding latch hook to the oven cavity front flange.

5. With door closed, adjust latch hook by moving it back and forth, and up and down. In and out play of the door allowed by the upper and lower position of the latch hook should be less than 0.5mm. The vertical position of the latch hook should be adjusted so that the door sensing switch and secondary interlock switch are activated with the door closed. The horizontal position of the latch hook should be adjusted so that the plunger of the monitor switch is pressed with the door closed.

6. Secure the screws with washers firmly.

7. Check the operation of all switches. If each switch has not activated with the door closed, loosen screw and adjust the latch hook position.

After adjustment, check the following.

1. In and out play of door remains less than 0.5mm when in the
latched position. First check upper position of latch hook, pushing and pulling upper portion of door toward the oven face. Then check lower portion of the latch hook, pushing and pulling lower portion of the door toward the oven face. Both results (play in the door) should be less than 0.5mm.

2. The door sensing switch and secondary interlock switch interrupt the circuit before the door can be opened.

3. Monitor switch contacts close when door is opened.

4. Re-install outer case and check for microwave leakage around
door with an approved microwave survey meter. (Refer to Microwave Measurement Procedure.)

Please write back with more details if you need further help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Aug 12, 2008 | Sharp Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Fuse


The Interlock Monitor Switch is an added
safety check on the Primary and
Secondary Interlock Switches. If the
Primary and Secondary Interlock Switches
allow the oven to operate with the door
open, the Monitor Switch will blow the
fuse.

You can get more information about adjuting the interlock switch from this link

http://136.166.4.200/contents/Microwave/LMVM1935xx/LMVM1935xx_Service_Manual.pdf

sections 7-11 thru 7-12 discuss the door interlock adjustment that will cause the 20A fuse to blow if it isn't set up right. I hope this helps you...

Aug 03, 2008 | LG LMVM1935 Convection/Microwave Oven

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